tridentt150v

Only downside is, I don't expect it to stay at $1.26, as soon as the gov't stop the ethanol subsidies to the companies and as soon as they tax it at the same rate I reckon it will be as or more.

Pull, it unclips, press clips.

Its an easy one to think you got it right and then here the tell tale extra noise of the loose pump and the clunks as you go round a corner etc I actually had a dud pump and a so called reputable skyline shop changed it, only to miss the bracket. I ended up having to redo it myself later at home and seat the bracket home. So even the 'experts' can get it wrong. But you'll here [or should here] a click as it seats home. A bit of sunshine into the boot helps heaps, park your car so the morning or arvo sun is beaming in.

Hard up against the inside front wall of the tank, there is a large flat whitish plastic fitting. The metal bracket from the fuel pump slides into this and clips or locks in place. Have good look and you will see what I mean, sounds like you didn't clip yours in to me. Easier to do it with 1/4 tank or less. This might help, its for a 32, but I think they are the same. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ati-t55337.html

I wouldn't leave it too long though, the hot exhaust gases can gouge the metal, creating a groove, then you have to get it welded and machined back. If its not too big you can get away with putty etc, but they usually fail again eventually if you don't weld.

As dori says, and use a couple of s/s hose clamps, but don't do 'em up too tight, just firm. You can get a measurement of the length by looking at your std pump position when its on the bracket etc.

Why are they holding the mass rally for WYD at Randwick? Cos its the only place that you can ride a three year old and get away with it!!!

Needs a couple of sheep, a dog and a few bales of hay in it, or a good load of redgum wood with a chainsaw would substitute.............

And you forget so easily..................

Sunday arvo's are out for me [too damn far and too late getting home].

The burning question is 'What was it?'

And a cold blast antarctic wind blows old newspapers, stray dogs and homeless children down the boulevarde of life.........very harsh GeeTR, very harsh. BTW lee, post up a pic and we'll try

With all the semi's and B doubles, plus the motorbikes getting around - 101dB is nothing. You'd think they would have their hands [and books] full enough, they must have very lttle to do in Vic.

I'ts not knocking is it? Don't have an orange light flashing when you put the boot into it? Otherwise its either air of fuel. I'd get your fuel flow and pressure tested, 10 minutes and say $50 at any reputable garage. At least that would eliminate fuel up to [but not including] the injectors.

You can change the housings easy and being both HKS should line up no problem. It won't affect the balance, but I'm not sure about the fan sizes vs the housing sizes. Someone else will answer that better than I can.

Even a quick dyno run with a bit of a trim on the tune will set you back say $3-400, and it they have to retune completely from base map, try $600 and up. All prices are just an indication, they will vary from shop to shop.

They'd only stop to read the sign then..............and then think 'Lucky its not me' People who ignore a merge right sign and go whistling past youstill in the left lane then expect to be able to get in further up the line, f#ck off jerk, wait your turn now!!

'search' is your friend

SK you have PM

yeah, you can't always just do what a shop recommends, you have to be firm/strong and tell them what you want and accept nothing less, stick to your guns - it works some of the time.

Any welding shop can plasma cut a flange, all you'd need is a gasket for a template. Buy a peice of 3/8" x 5" square plate and cut it out yourself, cost $2.00 and couple of hours. All you'd need is a pencil, center punch scribe, hammer, half round file, and a drill with a small bit.

A proper GT3076 will do +300 with the correct Rb setup [RB30?], it will do 275rwkw 24/7/365, have a look at the R33 turbo results thread, heaps of them.

genuine garrett 3071's have the restrictor built in [or so I've been told on these forums]. Your bolt that goes through the banjo and screws into the block will - usually - also have a restrictor in it. I never used a non return valve for my GT3076, used normal [well normalish] speedflow fittings with braided lines.

Not questioning you, but tempering your response with = there are many many cars out there in the big wide world that have more hp and do better times, including turbo's/v8's/rotaries etc etc so 4wd is not the only answer. Maybe their setup is different though? Also for rwd, carts, GP, drift and drags are all dominated [by rules or performance] by rwd, so I don't feel too inferior. Having said that though, I do think that 4wd is a blo#dy good mechanical advantage in many area's [cornering, launching, wet, gravel etc etc]. So I don't feel too superior either.................lol

If it's been on for over 2 years, you get some oil mist from the cam covers/rockers that gets vented back to the intake side. It hits the intercooler piping, cools and condenses. If you have plenty of mods and you've upped the boost and religiously give it some, its normal and thats why you run an oil catch can. If you drive like Miss Daisy and your car is std then it could be rebuild time. Was it all oil, or was it a bit white and had some water in it?