tridentt150v

cutter {hands up who things Dr Nelson - Leader of the Libs - looks like Virgil out of Thunderbirds!!]

Bugeye

What about your typical antiseize greases - coppercote, nickelcote, they have to be more conductive while offering some protection against corrosion, both these metals are used in the electrical industry as conductors, so mixed with grease should make them a viable and easily obtained item. They may not have the conductive powers of dielectric grease, but you'd think they would be a viable substitute. Have to do a search on the net and see if anyone has rated their condustivity properties?

fpr maybe?

And you KNOW what round nuts are good for..................

you'll need a new dump/front, add $500 or so for s/s Plus new studs, gaskets and other sundry stuff add another $200

I personally don't know of a bolt up kit for the 3076 [there could be one, I just don't know of it]. If you did find such a kit, things like your filter, dump, exhaust, manifold etc would all hold it back a bit, you'd end up with something that is unable to work [huff] properly. I had to get all my stuff made up and it took a lot of mucking about to get sorted and settled. Its not cheap!! This is presicely why many ppl opt for the HKS kits, they are a bolt up system. They are very $$$ to start with, but probably cost less in the long run. I didn't do this because I had a clear plan on what components I was going to use and my goals.

We'd need more info.............mods, power etc Could be anything First guess - plugs or plug gap

If you want more power than the 3071, go for the garret GT3076 [equivalent to the HKS 3037]. My dyno results are here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...0&start=380 and 12th entry down. The big difference with a 3071 vs any turbo that is bigger is you need custom dumps, intakes etc. So pay say $1700 for the turbo and then another say sub $5000 for setting it up. The 3071 bolts up, and with the fitting kit, sort of uses the std set up, the 3076 may do this as well, but your throttling it and it won't see anywhere near its full potential. The 3076 is [one of] the ideal turbo's for the 25.

[its not a] tumour - [line out of Kindergarten Cop]

Greekos, your right there, find a good one..............but I'd have to say that Skylines are the bargain of the century at the moment, you get a truely awesome platform with an aftermarket support base like no other vehicle, performance to match 80-90% of other domestic cars, heaps of potential to increase that percentage, and all for sub $20K. Try buying a supercharged or V8 SS commodore with climate control, electric windows and ABS etc for that price and in the same condition. The only downside is insurance, who'd want to insure a $15K vehicle for $3K per year, doesn't make sense. In modern terms, $15K is nothing. Also, as an example if I had to replace my Skyline with something comparable, I'd be up for $80K+, and I'd rather spend my $$$ on other things. So if you buy, look about and see how much car you get for the $$$, its a no brainer I reckon.

Me, if I fitted a bosch, I'd weld up a frame that the bosch would sit in just like a std pump, then I'd get the frame bright zinc coated so it wouldn't rust etc then I'd be half happy---------but this would cost as much as a nismo in the end and be a bit more mucking about------------and don't tell me I'm overdoing it, I've fought my pedanticism all my life and lost every time. If I didn't do it like that I'd be going down the road saying 'Yeah, I got a bosch, but I'm going to take it out and fix it up soon!!!' and would always be nagging/noring away at me until I did.

http://www.mez.co.uk/haynes.html http://www.mez.co.uk/lucas.html Pretty funny, loved the FAQ section.

he did say 'light mods', so I reckon fitting neons is kicking goals O O O and stickers, don't forget a heap of stickers on the door - HKS, Greddy, Tein, Tomei etc etc

Vortex comes in two flavours, normal 96 [dark green label] and Gold 98 [whitish label]. I used Woolworths dark green cos my missus had a shopper docket...........and I got knock readings, but I reckon its in my tune and will take a degree or two out with a retune soon. I can't get 98>100 RON juice here so 96 or 98 is it.

If you get a 3071 and front mount you'll need a pfc, personally I'd trash all that advise and go with a wicked set of blue or purple neons...............street cred is where its at. I know, I know..................just kiddin' Actually if you get the 3071, for the $680 I'd definitely buy the fitting kit as well. PS I have a 3076 and it is a very good turbo, so the 3071 would be just as good with a bit more down low, I've seen guys on here claim 270+rwkw from them. They are basically the equivalent of the HKS gtrs [different ex.housing]. The HKS turbo's are made by Garrett anyway.

So the pump has nothing to do with G forces, bbbuuutttt you have have it in the G spot!!!!! What are we talking about here....lol +1 nismo [and I am handy with tools]

normal

About as good an ending as you could hope for.......congrats and commiserations!!

Best guess, still got condensation/moisture in the intercooler, it will likely go away as the air drys it out.

Could be wheel bearings, easy fix. To check, jack the car up and spin the wheel and also feel for any rock or movement by grabbing the wheel and pushing and pulling etc.............but it must be jacked up.

Have to agree with paul, it is his ecu. If the car was stock then maybe not, but the ecu he has is not the ecu for the mods he has, esp. front mount and 10psi [how'd you measure this]. I had the same probs, and swapped for a pfc. I reckon the pfc has paid for itself in fuel saved and also gave a much better cleaner power delivery. Plus, is his ecu stock? In a lot of jap imports the ecu chips are swapped out for no speed limiter/richer fuel units. Have you popped the cover on your ecu and had a look at the chip etc?

A hole in the intake doesn't affect boost, your afm thinks its getting X amount of air past it, but the turbo is getting XX amount so your fuel map is all wrong for the power you are using.

Maybe check the voltage at the injectors? and/or the fuel pump, Walbro's are known to drop voltage. What power are you making and have you had your afr's checked?

Those std intake pipes sometimes get holes in them, this would mean your sucking air that isn't being measured by your afm. Worth checking.