tridentt150v

Does it have a phone on top? Definitely an Eagle Boys pizza delivery car!

Not only is Australia selling the Pontiac in the USA, but they are supposed to be doing it for around 40% of the price you could by the evuivalent model Holden here............so its all a big big rip off!!! Using that example, we could make the GTR35 here and sell it cheap all over the world except in Australia where we would sucker up and pay $$$ + 120%. The gov't and the 'local' car industry are treating the import/export system as a sacred cash cow.

SMIC and std turbo would be the limiting factor, but get a hf cat etc if your planning to ditch the smic/turbo one day. But you'll get stuff all improvement until you do.

Go to the NSW police compound and ask for a look

Bump, as stated all $$$$ negotiable!!

Air con fan sold

Elton [John, he is a living crime to sex]

Hope I'm not too late; You need to buy the dry triple layer element. The twin/dual layer units are an oil/foam setup and can contaminate your afm [which you can clean with carb cleaner etc]. The triple layer units are dry and you will not have this problem. Advan in Sydney have them - they are light blue units [dual layer are usually purple or green].

PM sent

No cap sorry, and a bump

BTW, I brought my cams to offset lag and help the breathing etc, i figured that the easier it breathes, the lower the lag. I've extrude honed my manifold, match ported my turbo and gasket, and [one day when I take it off the road again] want to flow the head and inlet manifold [although inlet manifolds flow OK std but like everything else can benefit from a clean up]. I only use my Skyline for road, I don't [can't afford, well I can afford, but there are competing priorities like 4wd's, m/c's, and housebuilding] race it, so probably won't change the inlet to a Greddy or somesuch. And I always intended to go to a bigger turbo than std hiflow, so the cams were part of a future plan I had.

That happened to me.........240 before and 225 after cams BUT the tuner f#*ked up, he added about 4-5 degrees on my tomei exhaust cam pulley, with Tomei 256/8.5 cams [i now know and realise thanks to this forum] you don't need any offset, it should have been reset to zero. I did this myself back at home after getting the story from SAU and the power difference was very noticable, it was extremely lively - but the PFC wasn't properly tuned for it. I was going to get it retuned [expected say 250rwkw], but I went stupid and brought a HKS cast low mount, 40mm HKS wg, and a Garrett 3076 WG with all the gravy and the rest is history.

The only way your going to improve this figure is with an adj. exhaust cam pulley so you can get some timing into it [then you can pull it back/trim it to suit]. Then I'm only thinking around 200 -210, so you might make a slight diff, but if you have plans to go bigger turbo and cams etc I wouldn't waste my $$$ on a cam wheel.

Wish I'd made it, but only got my car back on Thursday and needed Friday and Saturday to go over it and fix up all the things shops don't do, plus check all the gasket bolts etc and make sure they are still tight. Next one I'll come, haven't been for 12-18 months and need to network and get idea's bigger than my budget again....lol. Plus I've got a bit more time now, I'm not so committed to my other club stuff.

Was that while you were waiting in line for your float to join the parade down Oxford St????

They're only 7, jeez!!! Seriously though all 7 year old now come with an 18 year old attitude, what ever happened to the child in them? Bloody Bratz, Simpsons, Brittany Spears, and commercialism are pushing kids way too fast. PS. I got another 35rwkw for Xmas..................and I got the missus a big stone Buddah [OK concrete, but it looks like stone].

get your std bov modified to take more and make more sound.

500hp at the crank is approx. 270-320rwkw, depending on drive train and friction etc, its way too variable to put a hard and fast figure on the conversion from chp to whp. But a std motor will handle up to 300rwkw, but when you get to that level its a roll of the dice as to how long your motor will last. But I don't care what you say, DA is correct, it'll cost you heaps..............its reality, you can't avoid it.

Got mine, looks nismo neat, I'll try fitting it this weekend.

yeah, yellow ones, ask your friendly law enforcement officer, if he isn't looking your way [not likely] start with swear words and then get serious!!!

uummm obviously a happy dyno [cos I'm never wrong!]

No cams plus std manifold.....................260 or there abouts. Don't clap send $$$$ [if i win]!!!

You can't do it yourself, send the turbo to one of the rebuild businesses such as GCG

Bearings

Forgive my ignorance, but why would you hiflow when you can get a new KKR/Biagio/hypergear etc for sub $1000. I know, I know, a hiflow is nearly a new turbo, but its not ALL new, and it is still an older pre '00 design [only in little ways I admit] but you can buy the new turbo, sell the old std unit, and come away with a brand new one for say $5-600. The age of the hiflow is dead!!! It happened, it was good while it lasted, but there are better options out there now, its time to move on..... BTW I've got a 3076 WG [brought it off Slide], so I'm not saying go and do this or buy that, just posing the question.