tridentt150v

Any pump will work if you play with it enough.....the nismo/tomei/apexi pumps all look the same and have the same flow rate [or as close as]. It wouldn't surprise me if they are the same pump with some brand engineering. You have to look at the flow rate and other specs if you can get any. Then choose the pump that suits your fuel tank because it will have the correct seals, brackets etc to go with it. Although the bosch and walbro don't supply these items because they are a generic item. Do a search, the fuel pump issue has been flogged harder than a nag with horse flu.

French design obviously..................viva le Citroen

From memory [i did this sooo long ago] you have to get in behind the front bar. But first you have to take the car bra off.................lol

Ta, yeah saw the comments etc are still there, just really wanted an update etc. I'm happy, its all happening.......

Mussorgsky [Pictures at an Exhibition]

Kiev

communist

If you leave the leak too long it will gouge a groove in the head/manifold. Then you'd have to get them surface ground. Hot exhaust gases can do that.

Can't say about the colours, maybe genuine vs non HKS??? The light blue triple layer unit is a better thing. You don't have to oil it so no afm contamination, also the third layer has a very small cell size and [it looks like when compared to the purple dual layer units] it would definitely scrub the air better. Oiled elements do a very good job, the oil traps the dust, unfortunately - esp. if you over oil - you can get oil on the afm sensor and affect performance. Any filter that uses a prelube or oil will do this. The real secret to having a good air filter is to clean it often and replace it as per specs regularly. And we are all guilty of overclocking at some stage. I thought about replacing my HKS mushroom pod with a K+N/Apexi pod, but when the dry triple layer elements came out I stayed with it and just replaced the filter.

What happened to the Trader Rating, mine is now blank????

Pushed off North Head...................dunno it'd be close!!

The newest HKS foam filter is a triple layer dry unit, you don't oil it. The older style oil type is a twin layer and usually purple in colour [although I've seen other colours, green, blue, yellow etc]. The new triple layer dry foam filter is a light blue.

Generally, with the timing pulleys, because of the variable timing on the inlet one, you only change out the exhaust one. The aftermarket cams fit the std pulleys.

Search, search, search.............. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...iflow+injectors http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...06&hl=werks

And every weld is a possible stress point. All stress points will fatigue in time=cracks. A good single length mandrel bend pipe eliminates this [except at the flanges and other obvious locations].

A day late and a dollar short......... I'm interested, I have a turbo housing, manifold, and wastegate base. I'll give Stuart a call, I'd actually like to discuss preparation, whether thread holes have to be bolted up, how are gasket surfaces masked off, etc. If Stuart knows what he is doing and prefers to do it, fine...........or would he prefer me to do it and what material do I mask with etc. I really hate having a surface 'contaminated'. eg the wastegate valve guide??? Oohh and in black of cos'

Things I thought of: Wonder if he got them hiflowed.............big $$$$$ It'll have to be one motherf@#$a exhaust Where are the 8 pod filters?

If you have coil overs [and you must to get it low], then just get someone to wind the adjustment up on the locking rings. I'd reckon you'd have plenty there to use. If you have the 'C' spanners you could do it yourself.

Top stuff, body looks ex, pity about the colour.....lol A Cosworth T34??? Why this, is it a cheaper alternative??

Nah, URAS is right, turbo timer all the way.

Both, purple is to handbrake, orange is power, I'd say it would join the white and white black wires for power to the unit plus aux. power, blue is light?? But I'm guessing a bit, hard to say positively without being in your car and following the wires. Other plug it mainly to ignition and earthing.

I have a Garrett GT3076 WG and a HKS cast low mount. The manifold has been extrude honed. I want to match the ports - flow the junction between the turbo and the manifold. The metal gasket between the manifold and the turbo has a crush ring. The gasket hole is bigger than the turbo hole, but [because its been honed] the manifold hole is larger than the gasket. If I am to have a seamless fit, some of this crush ring will have to be removed, and the turbo shaped to suit. Will removing the crush ring seal have any affect on the gaskets performance? What did any one else do? Did you use a manifold paste [loctite 518?] to help with the seal?

What ever happened to the hanging tree??? I lament the passing of the cowboy era, it was much simpler then.......if you didn't shoot them full of holes you got to string them up.

rude [don't point]

If you do then you'll have to change your username to cheap sh1t...........lol