tridentt150v

3k is not much these days though, you can earn that [gross] inside a month or two. Sh1t most credit cards have a bigger limit. Plus in 12 months time 3-4k is nothing, BUT an NA is still an NA, for that 3k you get a hellva lot more car.

I'd think you could get a turbo one for not much more, especially if you have cash and no trade. And there is a world of difference between the two models.

Is it a NA or turbo?

Buy magazines like Fast fours/HPI/Speed etc and learn, they will have heaps of stuff showing you turbo's and FMIC's etc then you will know. Don't worry about ppl dissing you, they all get/got it in the neck when they started out as well. They just forget how hard it can be. The import/turbo car is a world of difference to the domestic V8, sometimes you'd think we are talking a new language when topics with lag, spikes, boost, ebc, fmic, hks, jun, hicas, etc etc are happening. But we all look and listen. I mean look what happened here with your question, other ppl answered [trying to be helpful] and they got it wrong as well, so your not alone. In fact I'd reckon 95% of Australia has SFA of an idea about imports so your just part of the vast majority BUT at least your willing to learn and change that. PS Sometimes - if the question is a bit simple or embarassing - its better to PM somebody and get a private message back with an answer, that way you find out and nobody else knows you asked. By the way, there is a really good section on the turbobygarrett web site 101, 102 and 103. They will tell you heaps about turbo's and how they work etc.

In the old days they put them in the gunny sack with a brick and dropped them off a bridge. Cops are useless at stopping that sort of crime, they have absolutley nil interest, it doesn't raise any revenue, it is a $$$$ loss task. They'd rather a new radar gun. Sorry to hear, I hope your mum is OK and they get the poisonous little 8uggers. Tell your mum to carry a walking stick, even if she doesn't use it, it is a deterent. Its sort of like having a big dog, they look at you and decide there are easier picking elsewhere. Nobody wants to pick on somebody with a big thick stick.

The good thing about a mech. diff is that if you do happen to loose traction, it drives straight cos both wheels load up. This makes the car so much more predictable and controlled.

My work is done here...................

I believe drive train loss if it could be graphed would be a classic 'S' curve. At very low output the loss is small because everything is moving so slowly that oil lubricates, heat doesn't build up, and things operate at an optimum efficiency. As output builds - and this means revs - heat soak begins, oil and gears/cogs/bearings [inc. diff and axles] are placed under load and the friction component begins to use up engine energy. At maximum output the loss plateau's, or even dips a little as gears/bearings/cogs etc can't radiate any more heat, they absorb the energy, but cannot dissipate it as friction [eventual meltdown]. So I think that Cubes is correct to a certain point, but somewhere on this 'S' curve there is a transition and then 2rismo theory takes over. That is, it doesn't matter after a bit if you have 300 or 1000hp the losses are increasing in value, but they are decreasing in overall percentage terms.

Heater core sold.

Costs more than that just to Hiflow, this turbo is a bargain. Best part is it bolts up without any mods, same manifold, same oil, same water etc. Better than an aftermarket unit. I made 250rwkw and it was a blast to drive, absolutely hammered. Good luck with the sale.

Whats its tow weight spec?

OCC's are for partially removing the oil vapour from your rocker breathers. What happens is: Your motor has to vent. The combustion chamber vents via the inlet and the exhaust. The sump vents via the rocker boxes. The pressure of pistons whirring around creates suction and pressure in the sump, this is when your looking at the underside of the piston. So when it travels up the bore a piston creates suction in the sump, and when the combustion pushes the piston back down the bore there is air displaced that creates pressure. There can also be some blowby, this is air that escapes out the combustion chamber past the rings, that is, the rings are unable to contain the 'explosion' of petrol burning. This happens in worn motors mainly and can increase when your reving the bejesus out of it. This negative and positive pressure created in the motor on the underside of the pistons breathes up through the oil galleries into the rocker boxes. The rocker boxes in the old days used to breathe out a mini filter to atmosphere. In this pollution conscious age, the breathing is vented back to the inlet side of the motor and burnt. In the case of a turbo skyline the oil vapour in the rockers is vented back to the intake pipe in front of the turbo. The turbo picks up this oil vapour air as well as normal air through the air filter, compresses it and sends it through the intercooler piping. The act of compressing the air [which is a turbo's job] and also hitting the cooler intercooler piping helps condense the oil vapour, so it settles in your piping. Thats how the oil gets in your intercooler etc. A way of slowing this buildup down is to install an oil catch can. You install the can in series on the line that comes out of your rocker boxes [also called a tappet cover etc]. So you have the oil vapour air coming out of the rockers, into the catch can via one fitting, passing through the steel wool, and then exiting via the other fitting and then entering the intake pipe on the turbo. The catch can and steel wool are supposed to make the oil vapour condense and separate from the air. This happens, BUT a catch can only helps, it doesn't stop or trap all vapour, so you will still get some vapour getting to the intercooler piping. The older and more worn out your engine is, the more oil vapour that gets pushed through. And thats my short answer.

Oil catch cans have nothing to do with keeping your oil clean.

Harpers [bizarre]

I much prefer to spend my $$$$ on the Nismo watches for $0.01, thats right, one loosey cent. The catch is it costs $28.00 postage to get it from China/Hong Kong..............ya gotta luv that.

new [york dolls]

Steel wool. don't use it. Go to woolies or Coles and buy a stainless steel scourer for about $1.50. Its like a 1-2mm wide continuous band of stainless steel in a ball. Unlike steel wool, its clean, there is no dust, it won't rust, and it will condense the oil vapour. One scourer is all you need. Pull it out and fluff it up , it will take up the space in the catch can.

Montana [Vagina is a USA state................isn't it?]

You'll only get a bigger gap at tdc if the gudgeon pin to piston crown measurement is the same as std. If the gudgeon pin is lower in the piston you could get no gap or worse still it could hit the valves and head. Inversely, if you get a wrist pin location higher in the piston then you end up with a huge gap above it at tdc. Any which way you look at it, its not worth doing [unless you are stroking]. So it depends on the piston dimensions as well. BTW BHDave is correct in that you will get no increase in capacity, you need the crank to have a longer throw to increase the stroke. Or bore it out to a larger piston size. Edit: Tomei piston I don't know which one you are looking at, but gudgeon pin location should be same as std.

I'm in the wrong trade, obviously a boilermaker makes sh1tloads of $$$$$....................................lol You doing in a fortnight [mod wise] what most people take lifetime to get through. At this rate you'll be bored and have nothing to do by Xmas, you'll have to sell it and start all over again. Sounds like it will be a good thing though.

Miyamoto [i read the book a thousand years ago, not a bad read]

sushi [yeah, I know its spelt different, but I couldn't resist the 90' turn]

Kate Moss

All this and your not running with splitfires??? I didn't see them mentioned. Does the WMI cooling help to stop the spark from blowing out? I would have thought splitfires would be a must. Bl00dy good result though.

DA21, no leaks afaik. I never tested it, I don't know how many k's, it doesn't leak water or air in a hand held test. It looks like a serviceable unit.