tridentt150v

Me, cusco [came with car from japan].

Also depends on if you are going to buy another ecu later. If you are then an AVCR is probably overkill. It does some of the simple things that an AM ecu does. If you can get a boost controller for sub $400, then you are wasting $200? but if you don't intend getting an ecu for a while then the AVCR is a good cheaper compromise.

Oompha [band]

wagging [tails]

Do a search, sydney kid has a neat little formula for figuring out your wastegate size.

Just Jap and others sell HKS 'replica' wastegates. The JJR is the same to lookat and in dimensions as the HKS 40mm standard wastegate. The price of a new HKS is $750, the JJR around $270. I didn't buy one [found a s/h HKS that needs a new diaphragm], but everyone that I had contact with that had a replica reckoned they were OK. I think its a bit of a gamble, but if Just Jap sell them [and stand by the product] then they must be value for money. PS I notice that other companies sell them as well, I just used JJ as an example.

Didn't otomoto have a new range of black hoses???

weasel [spice] Question: Is rhyming in the rules? munster>humpster>dumpster..........................Jayce can you erudicate..............

Guess I'll find out, wouldn't think the challenges would be any different to s/s manifolds, they crack as well!!

munster

Cubes was PM'd

From Tron Cyborg

Some of the lines may need moving, the reservior should be OK, but I'll wait and see.

I'm gunna make there one night, just to say hi, and then disgust everyone with my eating habits!!!

journey I'm proud of you Baconer, very good answer!! PS I could of said Jason [and the golden fleece] but I didn't want somebody getting a big head...........lol

Ulyssess

No cos I've just bolted the manifold in............................bugger........lol, I'll wait and see what others say, but might have to redo it all, @#*#@.

Yeah, if it doesn't fix it up when you do the outside, you send it off to ????? [he was advertising on SAU, but I can't remember who it was] and they cut the headlight open and polish the inside side of the lens and then plastic weld/epoxy it back together and send it back, good as new.

(The) Illiad

Anyone that has one of these manifolds and fitted a Garrett 30 series turbo. Did you come from underneath or can you get it from the top. I just tried from the top and it was so tight and I didn't quite get it in place before I started hitting hoses etc and I don't have any studs in the manifold for the turbo mount yet. So I'm thinking I'm running out of room just trying to get it in position so I won't get the room I need to get it over the studs {I cut into my engine mount, took approx 1/2" off at an angle and 3/4' down]. Any help appreciated.

Thanks for that I've now got the manifold and wrap on, bl00dy tight around the studs for room to get the washers etc on, but I fiddled and managed. Itchy as a dog with fleas now!!!

Its a Tomei kit, has these s/s cable ties, but yeah, I did think hose clamps would be more permanent. How did you start yours?

Same, can't leave feedback and options are not relevent for most of the trades.

I'm about to wrap my hks cast low mount manfold. I've got some s/s cable ties and two rolls of exhaust wrap. What I want to know is, 1. Do you use a cable tie at the start or 2. If I wrap it back over the start will that hold OK?

I'd remove the gaurds - you don't need 'em - then get some wintertreads, paint some cameo, weld on some hooks, and I'd put a 2" hole in the roof and mount a spottie. Then I'd take the bastard out bush and go spotlighting 'roos. Reckon you'd get a really good rest across that leather window sill for the .22-250................. :laughing-smiley-014: