tridentt150v

I use a piece of copper pipe bashed flat at one end and filed sharp. A strip of soft alloy will do the same. It's softer than the block metal and so doesn't scratch it. But gasket stripper, petrol or thinners are good for the close clean up, I always finish with a soft linish and thinners to get it uber clean.

Thanks Craved, that was the one I was after. I bl00dy well searched on just about all the combo's of: wastegate test sydneykid-------wastegates sydneykid-------external sydneykid-------tial external wastegate and in all forums as well as forced induction and FAQ area's. etc etc etc and either didn't get what I wanted,or the search failed ie didn't find anything at all. I redid my 270rwkw nominal power and came up with 39.6mm wastegate again, so i guess a turbosmart 40mm would be the go, but I'll have to check out what brands are out there in 40mm and prices.

Like this but approx. 30mm lower than pictured.

Damn........there goes my career!!!!!!!!! and my unlimited money supply, you are so cruel Race Snooze..........now what am I going to do???

Check your hose in the engine bay and if you whip the r/h front wheel and under gaurd cover off you can trace it right into the cab. Then you can follow it up under the dash. Take the dash facia out and you can keep following it to the vacuum gauge. In the engine bay it starts at the front of the plenum on R33's. The speedo prob. is a power thing, I'd be checking the fuses [easy] and then pulling the dash facia out and checking it all, make sure connections are good. Could cure the tacho at the same time??

And he is not stupid. Cubes has got it right.

Turbo lag is when you order your turbo and they haven't got any and it will be a two week wait.............thats real lag.

Yeah, GT3076WG, hks cast low mount probably run with 15psi or there abouts, looking for around 270rwkw. Hoping to get the lag [not that there is much] down with my cams and by extrude honing the manifold. Later hope to use an a/m planum and get some valve work done. This will help the breathing and lower the turbo lag maybe? I tried searching for that SK thread, but couldn't find it. I'll have another go later. So what are you running with Wheezy?

Sorry, but I'll have to remain a little skeptical on this one for now. Your talking $2650 for a std - maybe hiflowed - turbine housing??? You can buy Nabils GT3071R kit for $2800 for everything [no association just pointing out]. I really can't see the money in it all. There is service and warranty though.

And yes I did a search, got sh#tloads of threads and no thread that answered the questions. All for and ECR33 RB25 A manifold gasket/stud kit, whats best - Nissan genuine??? What external wastegate works best, is there a winner or are they all good?? According to the numbers [i found a SK thread some time ago that had the wastegate sizes or you could calculate them, I couldn't find it again, but mine came out at 39.6mm from memory] I require a 39-40mm unit, so Tial 38mm or Turbosmart 40mm etc

Me, if I want the breeze I use my motorbike.........horses for courses lads!!!! You 'non air con' guys would be happy driving a tractor!!!

I think it depends on the motor model once again.

To summarise-------------- Genarally speaking, it all depends on the motor model as to whether adjustable cam wheel/s are worth it with poncams. And I don't know if the same holds true for other cams such as HKS etc. With poncams installed: I've heard that RB20's still get some benefit out of trimming the timing. RB25's generally get very little benefit. RB25 NEO's Don't know, don't remember, somebody else??? RB26's get good benefit with cams, and because they don't have NVCS variable valve timing on the inlet side they can use an adjustable cam pulley on both inlet and exhaust. That should keep everyone happy [except GTT owners until someone verifies].

I have a tomei cam pulley, used it at 5 degrees and got good power, I've still got it on, but had to reset it to 0 degrees for my poncams. On a ECR33 Gtst with poncams, you usually don't need an adjustable cam gear.

It's not on the car any more, here's a couple more pics. I'll dummy up a pic with a plate on it and show you. The only reason I changed is because the new car bra [for some reason I didn't ask for] window for the number plate was in a different position by about half a plate. So rather than send the bra back, I made up a new bracket. I can take pics of the new bracket also, it's the same just a bit higher.

Its on the car with the bra over it below=====>

4 x Speaker covers, new, not used $25. Std intercooler to turbo pipe, used rated 6/10 $10. 6 x Std SII coils no cracks etc, used rated 8/10 $100 Stainless steel split dump for std or hiflow turbo, used rated 7/10 $200. Std manifold and heat shield, used rated 6/10 $50 Standard cams very good condition, used rate 8/10 $200. Standard cam wheel very good condition, used rate 8/10 $50. Front rh Kick panel, good condition, used rate 6/10 $15 2 x Standard front pipes excellent condition rate 8/10 $50. 2 x Standard cats excellent condition rate 8/10 $50. Slimline stainless steel front numberplate bracket, excellent condition, used rate 8/10 $30 Speedflow fittings, 14mm plus s/s turbo oil, plus oil restrictor, new rated 10/10 $10 4 x Genuine Nissan mats [no drive tunnel mat] excellent condition, used rate 8/10 $200 SOLD. Horsepowerinabox turbo beanie suit GT30 to 3540 series, new rated 10/10 $185 posted SOLD. Screamer pipe for external wg, stainless, no flange, used rated 5/10 $10 SOLD Heat wrap and s/s cable ties, new rated 10/10 SOLD Greddy style oil catch can, new rated 10/10 $30 SOLD. Genuine Z32afm, used, rated 6/10 SOLD. Apexi N1 front pipe, used rated 6/10 SOLD All prices neg. FOB unless stated. Please PM me your offers. See my other sale: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Le...ut-t160884.html

Well that is a little bit removed from your AVCR, you did say it could be the clutch though.

What I mean is if you just buy a cam gear and slap it on, you might see 5kw. If you have say a power fc and you install a cam gear you might see 10kw. If you have a fmic, a bigger turbo, a power fc, zorst etc etc then you might see 15kw. A cam pulley moves the cam timing, then it all depends on how much better your motor can breath, how much air can be forced into it, to make use of the move in timing. Re-read the post............

Ckeck if your actuator arm to the wastegate is OK and not loose. Try cleaning your AFM, don't touch it, just use brake cleaner or carb cleaner and squirt it heaps. I wouldn't have the afm plug sitting up like that, rotate it so that the plug is level or facing down a bit it stops moisture etc sitting there and getting into the afm box. Otherwise my remote help abilities are all worn out.

That old solenoid and tubing could all be binned [i think] its not doing anything. Just block off/seal the holes in the pipes. I'm not sure about the apexi solenoid and the hose positions, you need the instruction manual to see if they are hooked up right way round [i've got a Hks unit and its different obviously]. Otherwise all you hoses ect look right to me.

Dude............do a search, heaps of help here. The value of adjustable cam pulleys/gears and what you get out of them depends on your supporting mods. I'd also say that you won't need one for the inlet side unless you have removed your variable valve timing. My advice - don't bother unless you have/intend to get supporting mods. Buy a reputable brand, avoid eBay. Go to group buys or search on 'Slide' on SAU, you won't get a better deal from either option.

Find an RB30 manual in an auto shop etc and then check the figures and see if they are the same if they are try not to feel too cheap when you walk out without buying it!!!!!!hahaha

Nothing, 1. It is prob. not getting enough boost to open. 2. It is driven by the actuator which is getting no signal [maybe if hose is missing?]. Where was your exhaust leak? Did they play around with the turbo/manifold/dump pipe area - which one?