tridentt150v

he waited six years for you to tell him....six years....six long years, out there in the dark, lost, cold, hungry, and alone ?

Haven't you finished the R32 yet Jayce? Thought it would have been showroom finish by now?

I knew it existed, and had to go digging for it: About halfway down page 2 there is a flow comparison ...the HKS comes out way better...……...but it depends on what you want to do and what your budget is.

here

If you can find one, a HKS cast low mount is a good option. I've got mine extrude honed and hi temp coated then mounted a GT3076 on it with an external wastegate. This setup made your power goals but you could actually do better with a GTX3076 or a Hypergear setup.

Sorry, forgot all about it.

Hydrographer

(How does an R32 GTR ...that won Bathurst with the Winfield logo get to be moist? I had to ask!!!) Wet

I order online using these guys.....they are in Brissy I think? I had to order new drivers side window rubbers and runners for inside the door. http://www.nissanparts.com.au/ But I've used Just Jap and Amayama and found them good as well.

Read it again...…….I know what he meant to say, but read it again...it can be read both ways.

Wait, his question could be read both ways!!! Maybe he wants to turn a GTR into a GTT?? Very novel idea, obviously not done before or often enough....attain that certain uniqueness, baffle the rivet counters at car shows, do a build thread and discuss the challenges, lead the way!!!

What is it when hot? And yeah, do you trust that compression tester? Ask a shop to use it and see how it compares to yours?

Nice result all round, and even...that is a bonus.

What...no Power FC? or FMIC....what sort of bits n pieces kit are you selling??? And jarvojj, you can wind the shit outta the stock turbo...but expect it to last for less time than it took me to type this reply. And if the turbo goes bang and its usually in a spectacular fashion then expect ceramic grit all through your motor and a very expansive and expensive rebuild. Or put it on blocks in the front yard and rent it out to a coupla crackheads or ice addicts!

I'd do a wet comp test first...to be sure its the rings and not a valve issue

Gay even? I wonder which one has a straight through pipe?

If it is leaking at the firewall near the accelerator then you have to take the front wheel off, then remove the plastic guard liner [screws and clips]. Behind this there are a few grommets and such for gauges and cables etc. You won't see these grommets in the engine bay. I'll bet that one of the grommets has been split for aftermarket gauges or boost controller. Silastic out of a caulking gun works.....well did for me....but that was almost 20 years ago.

You sure its not coolant? Looks like a heater hose has sprung a leak to me.

Yeah, I've done it for other builds where standard bolts and bolts with standard head markings were no longer available, but preparation is the key. Hours on the wire wheel cleaning the threads up, on the TIG welding up the corners, and on the Dremel sanding the flats etc before getting them plated. But it was worth it for that fresh/new standard look.

And considering that the original cap is plastic...……..well how much pressure do you think plastic would take in comparison to alloy? I've got a half piston type anodised blue one with Tomei on it, and its harder to undo than the factory one cos there is no grip on it. Sometimes I have to use a screwdriver in the fake gudgeon pin hole to start it. I always tell myself that one day I will dig the factory cap out and use it, but I never seem to....maybe its the bling?

Can do, be busy for a couple of days, then I'll take some pics.

If your old bolts are still serviceable - just surface rust etc - and except for critical once use only applications - I'd consider sending them off to a bright zinc finish plater like A+G Platers in Belmore?? [been a while since I used them] Sydney. Be much cheaper and easier.....plus if you combine that with buying some new ones then you will have a great supply to choose from for all your applications. Used to be able to get a bucket of bolts done for around $100 from memory.