tridentt150v

Take it apart at the steering column and have a look, sometimes [not sure about skylines, hasn't happened to mine, but other makes] the pivot screws come loose then the whole mechanism feels like its going to fall off.

The stop leak products work [and they look suspiciously like brake fluid]. Around $10 at somewhere like supercheap.

Dave, If you can't read that diagram, take it to an auto electrician. The diagram it pretty clear to me, you have to run the wires to the places they indicate. Yellow would be parkers/lights, your tacho must have a display for oil + water temp and oil pressure, so splice into those wires in the engine bay. The green wire is the actual tacho wire, you could splice it in in any of three places, back of std tacho, coil top, or ecu at tacho wire. The last two are earth and on with ignition. Some ppl can wire up stuff, and some ppl can't. You'd need tools like crimpers, wire strippers, tape/heat shrink ,and a soldering iron anyway. PS I'd do it all 'in cabin', trace the correct wires back to behind the dash and splice in.

Send it to a speedo place like Olympic Instruments in Pymble Sydney. They can check is out, clean it up, lube the little gears with the correct instrument grease, and reset the speedo to whatever you ask. Just remember you can't go back past your previous pink slip, looks a bit sus. I'd only replace the tacho - actually I'd tear the tacho out and get it repaired. Prob. only cost as much as a cluster and you get a reconditioned unit, not some dodgy s/h cluster that you still have to have serviced. Just seen your in Melb. look in the yellow pages under speedo repairs maybe.

You've thrown a rod, now whether it was the piston grabbing in the bore and the conrod tearing the little end out of it and then flogging around in the bore, or the big end seizing on the crank and making the conrod revolve around the crank instead of stroking in the bore - you will never know until you pull it apart and check. If its the first option, it happens sometimes, lean tune maybe, faulty piston who knows. Sometimes the piston will separate at the crown. If its the second, you have blocked oil galleries to the positive feed or the oil pump is shagged. Beaten by fatgtsr!

Left hand side is left std on r33's, you have variable valve timing on the inlet side.

Yeah, thats what I thought, but when you look at the mounts [either the seat mounts or the floor mounts, depending on which rails you have] it wouldn't be a big job. I reckon I could do it in a couple of hours really. This would make datto's seats a real bargain [and they look excellent as well]. Sorry for the OT datto.........GL with the sale.

An obvious question, can you use std rails, a 9", a welder and make your own. Do a good job, nothing bodgy/dodgy. I would guess it would be illegal, but it is just mild steel, they aren't made out of chrome moly. I've often looked and thought it would be an easy task, day to fit, day to powdercoat/paint. A good job would be hard to pick!

You do realise that your doing some heroin addict out of a job at the traffic lights..................you ungrateful capitalist!!!

If you buy a porsche, do yourself a big favour and go to the phone box and buy the best long range mobile phone on an unlimited plan that money can buy as well. Then program in NRMA's number at No.1. Hey look on the bright side, your mechanic will send you a Xmas card (they do that with all their best customers). I'd forgetc it, keep the car you've got and go and buy a jetski or flying lessons or something.

Anneal=use a gas torch [or your mums gas stove], dangle the copper washer on a bit of thin tie wire, let it get cherry red with the heat, then dunk it in a cup of cold water. This process softens the copper and restores its sealing properties. A metallurgist will tell you that the heating and rapid cooling re-aligns the crystal structure in the metal. It is [very] good practise to do this with all copper washers/gaskets before using them, even new ones should be done. The manufacture processes [metal rollers and metal stamps] tend to work harden the metal. Added to this the washers could have been bumped around when shipped out to the warehouse where they laid around for months in the atmosphere absorbing oxygen etc - this also adds to the hardness/brittleness. Annealing fixes all this up. Older cars and motorcycles [pre 1960's] regularly used copper head gaskets, manifold gaskets, washers etc, these gaskets were annealed and used again and again with every rebuild and worked fine. As a test, try to bend your copper washer before you anneal and then try it again after you have annealed. Notice the difference? Afterwards the copper is heaps softer and ready to use. The only time I would not recommend re using your copper washers and gaskets is if they have been used that many times that they are now too thin to take up the space.

Do a search on anneal, you may come up with something. Essentially you use a gas torch or your mum's gas stove to heat your copper washers to a cherry red colour and then drop them in cold water. I'll see if I can find my diatribe on this topic and add a link. Go here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...4&hl=anneal Also I agree with Grigor, you use a breaker bar and you risk stripping the thread in your turbo housing, then you will be up that creek and in that barbed wire canoe and not a paddle in sight!!!!!!

Thats because you didn't anneal your washers!!!!

Sounds sort of like a blown head gasket and or holed piston? But I'm only guessing.

Zant, I'll take it, I'll pick it up sometime next week - I can't this weekend - then try to get over to the xmas party at cotter. That way the other guys can look at it and/or take it. As stated, I don't really want it unless there is a GT3076R in it ... lol I'm pm you my number and we can talk about it.

That'd be right, I was born a day late and a dollar short!!!

Fuel pump or fuel lines. No fuel = no go!!! Warning lights on, brakes and power steering is only from the engine not running. They all need motor running to work properly.

I'll tell you in about two months - I've just brought a hkscast unit and will have to take my std one off and replace it.

You'll have problems with that bracket, everybody does. Best bet is to have a heap of different sorts of spanners handy [all the right size, go and borrow some off mates etc ring, open enders, gearless] and just be stubborn and don't give up. You'll find that one spanner will turn the bolt half a turn, and then another spanner will do another half a turn etc etc Once you've got it off and undone, throw the bracket into the eternal pit of hell, don't try to re use it.

Never used it, brought off another forum member, then changed my mind when the other manifold came up. I don't need it anymore as I've chosen to go for a hks cast unit instead. It will bolt onto your current turbo, dump and all intake. You will notice the increase in flow instantly!! gaskets NOT included!! Letting it go for $250 Shipped

If nobody takes you up on it, I'll take it and then part it out, I don't really want anything, but I guess it really shouldn't go to the tip.

The gasket I used had the half moons on it as part of the gasket.

Highway 85-90 but what nuffsaid otherwise, but I got a cooler.

bump

No, he won't need them, R33 Gtst's are best set at or near 0 degrees with Tomei cams. He'd only be wasting his money.