tridentt150v

Is the flange a std one, or for a split dump?

Longer stroke + bigger cc's=more torque for anRB 30. Torque balances power [hp,kw]. The longer the stroke the greater the torque, the less you can hurry the motor [revs]. The shorter the stroke the greater the power, the more you can rev the a#se off it. But consider torque vs power as the ability to push through a brick wall. A rev happy motor will get to the brick wall quickly, and whack it hard, but it will dissipate its energy quickly. A torque laden motor will reach the wall much more slowly, and will hit the wall 'gently' but will continue through the wall and out the other side. Torque is work, power is energy. Its power that makes you go fast, its torque that fights the headwind. This is like a tractor pulling a stump out with 80hp vs a car trying to do it with 600hp. Older tractors [the common grey fergie type] are usually two to four cylinder diesels with 50hp small bores, and long stroke crankshafts. F1's [senna, Schumacher] cars are short stroke and [in relation] big bores. Manufacturers try to find a balance based on expected use for each motor. I've probably gone overboard here, but you should get the picture now. Not everything that revs is powerful.

The compressor only comes in 0.5 a/r, but the turbine comes in either 0.68 or 0.87 a/r. Lifted from the hksusa site: HKS GT2835 Pro S - 420 PS Output COMPRESSOR: -Wheel- 56 Trim - 53.1 Inducer / 71.1 Major -Housing- 100 Inlet / 50 Outlet - 0.50 A/R TURBINE: -Wheel- 84 Trim - 56.5 Major / 51.8 Exducer -Housing- T3 inlet / Outlet spec: Internal GT-Pro; 0.68, 0.87 A/R

He won't have to take the disc out to get the rock out...........will he? I'd just remove the pads and then replace them.

Are any of you guys in a work union? Cos the union has solicitors that [through the union] will give free advice on these sort of problems. Also, consumer affairs = Dept of Fair Trading will go in to bat for you if you have a legitimate claim, it helps that there are a few of you all with the same problem. You do need documentary evidence of all your dealings and demands on the company.

Don't know about the kits, but Nengun has the larger sized 2835's. Try: http://www.greenline.jp/ for a 3037 kit.

Me either, I'm torn between a 2835proS, the 3037proS, and the GT3076R, so atm all dyno results will help me decide.

Al, Interested in the split dump front, I reckon I can modify it to suit my new turbo. And chance of pics. I can PM you my email addy.

Stop talking and get on with it..............lol. Sounds very good to me, it will be interesting to see what makes power and where they make it. BTW I'll bring my dyno chart in tomorrow and provide some some figures.

Arrgh, the penny has dropped, I'm slow on the uptake. That is a truely good idea. You got my vote to do it if you need it. So, a master list and a blank graph?

It'd be good if the whole idea was comparing apples with apples. I know its hard to do, but to compare the performance of a GT30R with a HKS 2835proS [as examples] would be a good thing. But to do this you need [ideally] two cars exactly the same or one car using both systems. This will never normally happen. I know at the moment there are only a few results posted, but what happens when you get 20-50 results, the graph would be flooded. To overcome this situation, maybe the whole exercise needs to be split up into stages of performance development. More complex, but better definition.

Whtas the carpet like?, I'd be interested in it if its in ex condition.

Is there any diff between high flowing a 32 vs a 33 turbo? We all know that the 34's are better still [larger ex. housing]. My money would be on a 33 being a better option?

high flow turbo's don't cost $3000. If you take it off yourself and send it and put it back on, a GCG highflow will cost you $1950 plus a dyno tune. If somebody else [like Ed] is doing all this for you then estimate 2 hrs to remove, 3 hours to refit = $300-400. $1950 for GCG to highflow it. $50 postage there and back. $400 for dyno tune. TOTAL $2800 so yes then its $3000. AAARRGGHH beaten by 4 minutes!!!!

I use the exhaust temp gauge, if I've only been doing 50-60km/h for the last five minutes or so I don't use the timer at all. Usually the exhaust temp is around 300-400 degrees, and using the turbo timer doesn't see it fall any further anyway, your just wasting your time. When you are driving 'on the turbo' exhaust temp can go to 700-900 degrees.

This sold yet?

Can you do us all a big favour, put that front bar on and take some more photo's, it would be on my computer wallpaper. That is one fat powerful skyline. And I'm not even all that crazy about 32's.

Any date except for the 2nd is easy done. But the longer the better, might have my skyline back on the road by then, if not then the 4wd or the bike will have to get a work out.

I'm sure shell would send you/give you a form?? And Skylvia, I'm a country member [yeah I know its an old one], but it doesn't count either. But I am a member of SAU NSW. Apologies to Shell for OT.

So join up you stingy [spelling?] lot.................lol And if it's a medium its a tad too small for me, probably fit me like a five into a schooner!!

I emailed them to you, along with the photo's etc all sized down etc.

Remember that if you buy another turbo, you can sell your std one for $3-400, that is why the $1600 is break even.

9th is Ok, why not make the thread a poll and put up the three most likely dates, the one that wins is the date???

Had mine done [just sold it recently] was really happy with the power, I had 240rwkw at 18psi before I put cams in. Then I put cams in and [unfortunately] didn't stop there, I pulled my turbo off and sold it [had a very good offer with no hassles] now I'm looking at other turbos etc. But the high flow was a very good turbo and I estimate would have made around 260rwkw all up. The turbo is openned up to breath a better. Mine went from 51.2/71 to 56.3/76mm. But my turbo was not a std one to start with, it was a garrett something or rather [not too sure but it went well]. Steve I'll send you my spec sheet so you can see what I have on my 'line to make the power I did. Also if you go to the RB25 turbo results thread in forced induction you will see what other ppl are getting from theirs. Personally, a high flow for $1000 is a good option. if it goes over this amount then i'd be looking at the garrett GT3071R IW with T3, Slide is selling them for around $1600 and they are a 480hp turbo, so you would be looking at 250-270rwkw with supporting mods. I'm looking at the HKS2835proS, its a small mods only bolt on. But I'm also looking at the GT3076R IW and the GT3040R IW they require a lot more mods [custom intake and dump and well as oil and water lines] to fit. Overall cost of all options is eventually about the same give or take a $100-200.

Nengun has the kit with 68 and 87 i thought, but that is for an R33 so maybe different for and R34. And with both actuator sizes. Personally the 87 is my pick, better huff n puff.