Nismo is a straight replacement, plug n play, no mods required. Good for up to around 300kw. After this you will need an external [044] as well as the in tank.
Have a look at the tutorial section on choosing a turbo, it sort of explains a bit, but the best one I've found is:
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/ and then go to the tutorials 101, 102, 103. They will explain it pretty well.
I reckon your car is popping because its missing, then burning the unburnt fuel from the previous cycle. Its got to be the igniter box or even something being heat affected and not advancing the timing or fully advancing the timing.
It's be a good exercise to be there when its happening and then begin unplugging spark plugs etc to isolate the problem.
Mr Grainger=Are you being serviced=Mr Grainger are you free=Yes I'm free.
Db=desert boots, which are way out of vogue these days, the usual bipedal attire in this modern age for bogans is Nike/Asic/Converse etc runners and a trick mobile phone glued to the ear!!
Richard is like me=living in the past because we can and because we have one...lol
You know, except for the ciggies and the wifebeater bit, it sounds just like me!!!
I don't go for the frivolous plastic geegaw cum xmas tree look, like to keep my cars like my women, clean and scantily clad :sorcerer:
After what paul said:
T88 needed next jk
boost controller, afm [z32], bigger injectors, adj. ex.cam pulley, nismo fuel pump, brake upgrade.
Which lottery you plan on winning???
The deterioration of fuel is or can be brand dependent. If you read any of the links in my previous reply, it appears that the length fuel can be stored also relies on the preservatives each company uses to increase the shelf life of their brand. I don't know which ones are best, but I wouldn't trust any of them. Its an easy question really: Whats cheapest, a new tank of fuel or an engine rebuild?
I'd leave fuel in the tank, an empty tank tends to rust.
And some light reading on the subject:
http://www.chevron.com/products/prodserv/f...detecting.shtml
http://www.virginiawind.com/tips/gasoline_stabilizer.asp
http://www.challengers101.com/FuelStorage.html
The last one is the most generally informative. I was looking for a deterioration duration curve [time vs decay] but couldn't find one.
You know, thats one fashion fad I absolutely detest...............I reckon clear covers are the biggest wank factor. Way, way to western suburbs for me!!!
Count me in, should even have the car going again by then.
And a Saturday sounds good, means we don't have to eat and run, can stay overnight and head home Sunday!
And Doh! I did mine full...............I was cursing myself the whole time for not remembering how full I had it.
If you haven't done the pump before, 1/4 full is good, it lets you see whats going on a bit better.
Gun toting redneck white aussie bastard
And I reckon your all wrong, every time I see an asian they are driving a BM or Merc.......
Mind you woulda thought there'd be more leb's polling, but goes to show...
Your mechanic can test the flow and pressure your pump is able to deliver and tell you this. All done in 10 minutes. I'd say you'd be OK with a std one.
AndrewD, its a pity you are so antagonistic in your approach, because with your engineering background and your experience you could be a real help to many people on this forum. But unless your communication skills mollify, I'm afraid you will make more enemies than friends. And that is a real shame because SAU needs and is willing to accept all the help it can get. The strength of SAU is its members.
You could be [and have the knowledge to be] a respected helpful contributor.
Suck it and see............but probably not! When I upped the specs on my car, the ecu handled it OK, I got more power etc, but it ran rich as all getout. When I changed over to a pfc I went from 200 to 220rwkw and from 200+ to almost 500km to a tank of fuel.