tridentt150v

Use WD40/CRC on the nuts and bolts before you try to undo them, its easy as long as you have a fairly good tool kit. Some nuts and bolts are bl00dy hard to get to and/or get a decent swing on, be patient, take your time. When reassembling use nickel or coppercote on all the nuts and bolts etc.

28 is fine, anything over 60 it fringey, anything over 100 needs to be looked at very soon. If it is always over 100 your in trouble, but generally you only see peaks when putting the motor under load ie going up a steep hill in 5th and then trying to give it the boot!!! You can mitigate knock by using a trailing throttle ie when your going up the steep hill, slowly ease off on the accelerator ie start at say 100km/h at the bottom and then be doing say 80km/h by the top of the hill. OR you could just select a lower gear and not put the car under load in the first place. The pfc graph is live,and flickers with the knock reading, the number under it is a peak hold number ie the highest reading experienced is shown. You can reset it to zero on the fly by pressing the right arrow. It also resets every time you turn off the ignition.

Nozila and Hijaked, you both have PM's.

This pump definitely suits a R33 SII, cos I've got one on mine [sold to me by Just Jap]. You have to leave out one mounting bolt when fitting it, but it works fine, no leaks and totally reliable.

WogsRus Pm'd

You may not need a new crank either, they can weld and re-machine woodruff key holes and splines etc. But it is very much a specialist job. It's a special technique, a special weld, all without any distortion, and no heat stress. I'd avoid metal spraying it can chip under stress. And it would still require a motor rebuild etc. But it is as good as new or better. I've had it done on motors that you can no longer get parts for and they are holding up fine. But a reco or new crank may be cheaper, you'll have to suck it and see!

Some sold, some still available.

And he wasn't going hard in the monaro either, more of a sunday stroll. If he was going hard he would have had a helmet on and a full roll cage! At least he had his seatbelt on...lol

He's the man that can install your SK group buy, so nice to know he is a skyline/stagea man!

Like a pig???? I'd have to say lack of oil to the bearing, or bearing is on the way out, but I'm no expert.

Wanna lurn turboz: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...ech_center.html

Are they monoque shell or can they recline?

You know that global warming is taking hold when Melbourne win the NRL and Sydney win the AFL. Next we'll have the french making our beer, the Russians doing the cooking, the italians organising it, the british making the wine, the spanish in charge of admin, the germans being in charge of public sympathy and the gypsies looking after supplies. Apologies in advance for any offence etc etc.

And adjusting suspension - forget it, stick to what you know and are used to you'll do better, until you begin realising its limitations after several meets. Its no easy thing resetting your suspension and maintaining your wheel alignment. Every time you lower or raise your car your camber will change and you could wear out the inside/outside of your tyres unless you get a wheel alignment each time to reset it all [inside when lowered, outside when raised usually].

Ed can only get power out of your vehicle if you have the mods that let him. he or nobody can get power out if you don't have the mods. Roughly: Bog stock = 140160 or so they quote. std turbo, fmic, pod, exhaust, z32 = 180- 190rwkw above plus 555 injectors and fuel pump = 200 - 210rwkw above plus ex cam pulley, power fc and GCG hiflow = 220 - 240rwkw above plus cams = 250 - 270rwkw. above plus turbo gtrs/2835proS/apexi53b70 etc = 260 - 280rwkw. Then start looking at engine internals. And most tuners can get these figures if you spend $$$ and supply the hardware. Don't know if this helps or is what your looking at. Plus there are more than several ways to approach the whole performance thing, safc, haltech, other turbo's etc etc and each person has their own idea about what is the best way to do it. All it takes is $$$$ The definition of being poor = owning a Skyline...lol.

Sorry ppl, my internet connection chucked a spazz and I couldn't get on the net. OK now. Spio got your PM, sent you one back. Phantom32, I have also PM'd you.

Play this! Welcome.mp3

Another pic

Bump

Arr they was just ridin' shotgun, keeping the trucks off the a$$ of those slow old unreliable 32's. It's also the best place to pick up all the spare parts that vibrated off the recycled tokyo taxi's. Only trouble is your windscreen gets covered in oil from all the leaks. And thats the gratitude you show them................next time when you break down out of mobile coverage don't ask a 33 to help, they'll all be at the weighbridge having coffee!!

PM sent

Some chips don't have anything written on them, mine didn't, but I could do over 8,000 and 180. I ended up with a power fc anyway, better running lots more power and heaps better fuel economy, its a win/win thing.

All off a '98 Gts2.5t ECR33 For sale, all items neg., items posted only, Std cams 60,000km old very good $200 Std ex. cam pulley 60,000km old very good $50 Std cat as new $30 Std front pipe as new $40 2 x Std intake hoses one very good, one repaired but serviceable $20/$10 Kick panels both L and RH sides Ok condition $20 4x Speaker covers VDO brand new 175mm suit 6" speakers $10 Walbro 255L/500hp fuel pump with std bracket and 'O' ring 1,000km old **as new** SOLD HKS two layer mushroom pod air filter 200mm element washed, oiled and ready to go very good SOLD No name brand stainless steel split dump and gaskets, studs, and nuts brand new SOLD Hard intake pipe kits, hose clamps, silicon hoses etc [doesn't fit a R33] brand new WITHDRAWN 2x Aunger airfoil wiper blades 400mm brand new SOLD FOB

No, you should ask heaps of questions, this does two very important things: 1. It lets us laugh and poke fun at your naivety. 2. Gives us a chance to impress you and everyone else with our knowledge.

I'm only gunning for around 270-280rwkw. But I'd actually rather run a lower boost with a smaller rwkw, say 270rwkw all up. Presently making 240 on a garrett hiflow [GCG, also its not a std R33 turbo] at 16psi but have since installed tomei 256/8.5 cams so may end up with 250-270 anyway, but at 16psi. Its not excessive, but if I could do it at 12-14psi it would be better on a std motor. But I'm really just thinking about it at the moment. I'll get a lot more serious once I make up my mind, and amass the $$$$.