tridentt150v

I'd get it tested asap. A test is cheap, an engine rebuild is expensive. As they say could be the gauge, could be the oil pump. A test will tell you which it is.

Including me!!! But only after coming back and reading up on the topic on SAU. "I didn't know yesterday that which I now know today".

Too much raspberry cordial!!! BTW $9735 and I'm not at 270rwkw yet! So I reckon that the cost estimates are about spot on or even a bit friendly.

Sorry, so disappointed [that it wasn't a clean add on] that I told him I didn't want it. It'd only be a beer coaster to me. It was making less power all round than the 240 graph, from memory approx 20 kw less in the low midrange and 30 in the top midrange. A/F ratio was also not very pretty, it was a jagged line with heaps of flickering. No smoothness in it. I'll see if I can get a printout of it sent to me [i'm a couple 100 km away from the dyno place], joys of country life!!!

Yes, but only in a 'best we can do' way until I find out where my power has gone. Had it on the dyno and used datalogit to get it as good as we could given the problems.

Hope not to have the problem that long Cubes. But as an aside, in the 200km I've driven with it I reckon the fuel economy is marginally better [more subjective than objective]. But I have to qualfy that statement with: The car is not making as much power ie less fuel/air is used. I am a bit p1ssed off/dejected about the whole thing and so am not driving it as hard [loss of faith]. I am trying to be more conservative in my driving style and not f#ck anything in the motor until the problem is fixed and the engine management is tuned correctly.

croat, I'll pm as well, but did you solve this issue?

Cams are definitely in the correct position, I checked. The timing was checked and all was fine. Bl4ck32, thanks for the thread, good value. I reckon [well it looks like] the ex cam should be at 0 rather than 4 degrees. Thats a good starting point anyway.

Nah, the mechanic that I was using as my 'coach' set the timing of the cams from his previous experience with them. His experience is mainly with GTR's [from talking to him while I was working on the car]. I gather that he has done GTST's before, but not as often. I've had the car for 3 years, slowly building it up with add ons etc, I do most of the work on it, but when I have to tackle something I'm unfamiliar with I get my mechanic to do it and I help and learn. I've done heaps of mechanical work before, but mainly motorcycles [top end, bottom end, modifications, big bore kits, custom frames and wiring looms, welding, polishing, sandblasting, you name it]. I gotta say that I'm still learning with my Skyline, but I like the 'Built not bought' motto, so hope to do my own stuff as I go.

Same dyno, same software, I think the exhaust cam is at 4 degrees. Timing is at 15 and then rising to 40 at revs, can't remember what revs, but I think about 3000 or there abouts. I can double check both these figures if it helps. Haven't checked the turbo, but I'd be surprised if it was the cause. When I drove it in it felt like a real 240 [it felt strong and torquey], after getting the cams fitted I lost power, both midrange and peak and you could feel it easy [won't 'bag up' in 2nd gear, won't pull hard when going up a steep hill etc] I was expecting around 250-270 rwkw, GCG reckon the turbo is good for 400hp=300kw, but I wasn't aiming that high. Wanted to keep my midrange, wasn't looking for peaky top end power.

Ok, I've got a R33 gtst that was making 240 rwkw, put in tomei poncams [256/8.5] and now its only making 225? Only other change I've made is swapping my HKS mushroom air filter element [two layer wet] for a three layer dry unit. Set up on the dyno we couldn't get full or stable boost, peaking at 17psi and falling away to 10-12psi. Injectors are at only 60%, so plenty of room left there. If I keep going like this, I'll have to install peddles just to get the car moving..............lol. I reset the evc the next day, and then gave it a run up a steep-ish hill, boost peaked out at 1 bar=14.7psi. Stock boost was 0.59, so set it at 0.80 and then high boost at 1.2 with a 100% gain and 0.2 scramble boost for 10 seconds. So what can make the car do this inside a couple of months??? Everything seems to be working OK, turbo, wastegate etc. Mods affecting engine performance are: HKS pod filter Z32 AFM Bigger injectors (yellow top colour coded) Blitz 700x600x70 fmic (anodised blue) HKS IV evc Blitz turbo timer Apexi turbo boost gauge Greddy gauges x3:oil pressure, oil temp, exhaust temp, mounted in a dash pod Apexi hiflo cat with full turbo back 90mm exhaust HKS Viper 120mm s/s muffler GCG converted Hiflow turbo [From 51.2/71mm to 56.3/76mm] Walpro 500hp fuel pump Tomei adjustable exhaust cam pulley Power FC + HC

If only the major car makers would look and listen!!!!

Or clones...........like Dolly the sheep!!!!

Car: R33 SKyline Gtst Make:Nissan Year:98 Parts: Std front pipe, std cam gear, std cams, and a 'wheel nut rack/tree' [if you want to powder coat your wheel nuts etc].

I've got 235/40Z/R17 and 255/40Z/R17 yokohama AVS 102's all round. Directional tyre, work well. Grip is good. $330 and $360 fitted each. PS I've just been informed that they are no longer available!!! Damn!!!

Bu99er, they don't do motorcycle tanks!!!!!!!

I've got no connection to this, but I just saw an '89 4 door gtst for sale, $11500. car seemed neat enough, and price was good [likely neg. anyway]. Thought I'd mention it in case anybody wants a first up or second car for getting to work and back etc etc. If anyone is interested, I'll get the phone number and you can take it form there.

Carpet and mats? Are they in good condition? PM me a reply with price.

Thanks lads, I'll look 'em up. Got a dent in a m/c tank, want to try to get it out without the hassle of repainting the tank. Two colours and pinstripes makes it a bit exey!

I know this question has been asked before, but............. Does anyone have a contact number for the guy that does the dent removal where they don't have to repaint etc they just pop it back out. Thanks.

Sounds like quark, strangeness and charm, or the lack there of.

PM sent

Price of fuel these days - I'm surprised they don't use a gun, bullets are so much cheaper than chainsaw operating costs. I wonder how many cars they can jack out of a tank of gas?? Someone should dob 'em in to OH+S for not wearing earmuffs and safety specs. Well -- thats what I would say if the situation wasn't so serious. Hope they get the sh*t kicked out of 'em by a greenie rally.

paint stripper and a jet spray [karcher/gerni]. I powder coated mine, more durable, but it wrecks your rims for anything but another powdercoat [cos they get sandblasted].

Front: 14.1 so 14mm thickness without the powdercoat? Base 100mm Top 120-125mm couldn't get any more accurate than that [still on car] 7.5 number of coils. Back: 14.0mm again. Base 100mm Top 120-125mm 7.7 number of coils. Total length 280mm, with a 47mm preload spring included at back and same at front with 37mm preload. ie main coil is 233mm long. Tein HA's if that helps. It rides very firm. I was looking to put the back on the front and get softer back ones, but that isn't going to work.......damn. I'd like to consider your Bilstein group buy, are they any softer than the Teins I have? And will the car sit at the same height, the Bilsteins are 350mm long vs 280mm for the Teins. Does this mean car will be higher???