tridentt150v

I agree GTSBoy, if they want it then they will take it....I'm just trying to make it harder or slow them down. Hopefully they will look, go f#ck that, and move on to some other car. Its mainly for the opportunist joy riders, not the 'its a business' types, who will probably back up to it with a tilt tray and a winch anyway. And don't get me started on alarms or tracking and the cops that just don't want to know!!! I also have a property out of town with modern colourbond shed with pumps, quad bike, chainsaws, welder, etc in it. And Supercheap sell 18v angle grinders or a drill and tek screw head for around $40.

Any auto sparkie worth his salt can run a new earth strap. So I'm concerned...I'd still be getting a second opinion.

I'd get a second opinion on that, doesn't sound right to me. If your switch works [test with a multimeter] and your motor works like ADMS15 suggests then its not been 'wired to suit a dodgey switch'.

Check the filler neck.....if its raw fuel then it can be an issue. When they comply the car in Australia they replace the filler neck with a small hole 'unleaded' one. Dodgy shops don't bond this to the original filler pipe/hose....a few of us on here have had to Sikaflex the gap.

No, they can't do that.....you have a QD fitted, you remove the wheel, then you place the cap [you keep under the seat etc] in the hole and use the key to lock it in position. I guess it could still be sort of driven if you had strong hands and just used the steering hub??? https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=NRG+steering+lock&qpvt=NRG+steering+lock&FORM=IGRE

Has anyone tried one of these? Sort of interested, QD steering wheel and a lock to stop others from using their own wheel [on the slim chance they have a spare]. https://www.amazon.com/NRG-Innovations-SRK-101MB-Quick-Lock/dp/B000F2SRS0/ref=as_at?creativeASIN=B000F2SRS0&imprToken=iZzAaKXC7CqOuts9XKaSpw&slotNum=6&ie=UTF8&linkCode=w61&tag=safewicom-20&linkId=fc5c72efcfd75cc223a4076e4e838a19

Get a tune!!! Heaps of us here with performance CAT's and no fumes, and way more power than 200rwkw. And when you are talking fumes, is it oil, gearbox oil, oil splash fumes, unburnt fuel, burnt fuel, burnt coolant, can you see smoke? is there black all over the back of the car? does the car leak oil when parked? heaps of problems that can be easily fixed, need to be more specific sorry.

lol, I didn't look too hard when I got my pack....opened the white envelope but nothing else, just spilled it onto the kitchen bench, its still in its clear plastic. I thought the popsocket was a horn button ?? If that lanyard gets any bigger I'll be using it as a tow rope!!! But thanks Prank!!! I would like to see maybe stubby holders, coffee mugs and baseball caps. Willing to pay a bit more for them.

You have probably already done this.....the rims would have to be sandblasted before they are powdercoated, they need to be 100% clean with no fingerprints or oil marks. Any engraving will still be there, powdercoating doesn't fill cavities [unless they lay it on hot, but that's not usual]. Vis a vis all imperfections will also show up, so be sure to prep your wheels before coating. Sand out and smooth!!! Fill with weld where there are gouges or dents!!!! You can just get part of the rim powdercoated if that's what you want, but you will have to mask off what you don't want coated. You would do this after the rims are sandblasted. If you don't want the engraving, get a sanding disc and sand it smooth. I also powdercoated my wheel nuts, welded up a 'tree' using bolts ad then threaded the nuts onto them and got them coated. Powdercoating will affect threads and interference fits, so mask carefully. For threads use a bolt, and visa versa. The masking tape and material - see your powdercoater, he will give you some, it has to withstand the ovens temperature. Powdercoating can be CAREFULLY cleaned off parts afterwards with common hardware paint stripper if you get any overspray etc

This...all wrapped up and ready to go!!! Don't overthink it, the Garrett GTX range and/or Hypergear setups are tried and proven and would be ideal for your setup. And one with > 0.60 to <0.85 would be my pick. Only single other bit of advice......stick with a reputable trader, don't buy from some 'fly by night' pop up shop that can't help with advice or after sales. This way you know what your getting, its not some Chinese knock off.

Look down.....on the left hand side of the drivers seat is a thing called a gear lever.....if you master how to use this then you can increase your street response without affecting top end power!!! Seriously you are trying to split the atom....you already have a great motor and setup. If that's not enough then try the std cams and reco'ed VCT like everyone suggests before selling any kidneys and buying stuff!!!

Great band from Iceland!!!

And from her heavy days experimenting outside the punk era:

Obviously somebodies solution to overcrowding in jails

I'll take screen shots when I can...just now had to try to get into SAU 3 times...3rd time lucky. Was Ok 1 or 2 days ago, didn't notice a difference till this morning tbh. Still using IE...been lazy, really should have gone over to Chrome or Edge. Used to use Firefox but my virus checker was saying FF was out of date etc so gave up on FF.

I have been having issues connecting to SAU....all other forum sites I visit are fine, just SAU. I sometimes get the DOS based view [blue text, and just a list of the forum pages] rather than the normal GUI forums page. If I get the DOS view then I cannot open any other pages, it usually comes up with a blank screen. If I leave and come back in 10-15 minutes its then usually OK. The other thing that has just started to happen as well, the forums page comes up OK then it reloads straight away and I get a blank screen [address in address bar is still OK].

That's a pretty aggressive flow rate you are looking at...drag racing? I use a 375 nozzle which is more than enough for how I use it and as stated before don't use that much for normal driving. They say the SPIII kit can handle a twin nozzle dual stage setup though....I just don't need it.

Reply from Snow performance: "We have a minimum duty cycle the controller will send out which is rated for 50 psi pump pressure ( nozzle are rated to atomize down to 40 psi ) so 1 % duty cycle is 50 psi ramping up to the 100%. while 1% duty cycle is possible because of the way the system generally kicks on i have never seen the controller read a 1% i think i have seen as low as 6% once the ramp up begins. The amount it uses per % point will depend on nozzle size, absolute pump pressure settings and screen filter dirt level - there are a lot of factors that relate to the exact amount of fluid being injected." I would have loved a graph showing the ramp up but SP don't seem to have one unfortunately. Their last statement is a cop out IMO, they could have done a family curve for all nozzle sizes or a single graph with formula to use for your specific setup.

yeah, not sure how much it flows right at the start, I don't have a feed curve. But I am also conservative in my thresholds...which probably aids as a 'fudge factor'. Would be interesting to find out what the baseline is for the SP3 kit, I am assuming it would be more like the 20% or more so than the 1%...but I don't know. I might have a look on the SP website and see if they have anything. The fact that the SP3 kit uses dual triggers was what sold me...IDC and boost one or the other can trigger the system. Edit: Nothing on their website...I have sent them an email, hopefully they will reply with the goods!!!

That's what I thought my Stage III Snow performance system did? I have it set up to start at 7psi and/or 30% IDC, and all in at 14psi and/or 70% IDC, so its variable between 8 to 14 psi and/or 30 to 70% IDC. But I can set up for any values really...its up to me. Or am I reading your question incorrectly? BTW I use around 2 litres of 50/50 mix every 3-4000km, highway miles though, no city driving, no commuting, no boy racing, pretty much open roads only. Going up a steep hill, some going through the gears/taking off maybe, or overtaking uses it.