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Everything posted by tridentt150v
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but cylinders are in the engine bay!
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Interesting because in all else...black is the negative or neutral wire [except when blue is used, but that's usually 240 volt stuff.
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Did someone say Tool??
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Was thinking of the vinyl wrap and clear wrap....but what happens when you want to remove and renew in a few years time??? Is it just a big sticky mess, does it take the paint off as well, or is it an easy thing? And it is expensive plus I have to travel and stay ...which adds to the expense. But I agree, the end results look amazing.
- 6 replies
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- plasti dip
- car bra
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R33 gtst Slight missfire on idle... Spark plug gap suspect
tridentt150v replied to Ty1's topic in General Maintenance
At 0.5mm yes it would. Glad you found the issue and it was cost neutral. PS...Tuner shoulda gone to specsavers!!!!! mistaking 0.5 for 0.8 lmao -
Like this
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- plasti dip
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Mate when you drive in the country your car gets sandblasted [the edges of the road are just dirt and fine sand that every semi blows up] and covered in bugs [grasshoppers, moths, midges etc] so much that the paint ceases to show through. And btw my sig has a pic of my Skyline with a bra on it.
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- plasti dip
- car bra
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Hi all, I did a search and read up on the options around, plenty of recommendations on SAU but very few 1st hand experiences.......I presently have a car bra, but am looking to see if there is something better [aren't we all]. Is anyone able to give longer term first hand experience on any of the options that protect the front of your car from bugs and stone chips etc? I am sort of happy with my car bra - and yes it does rub, but you can't see it once you put the bra on . It is always a pain putting the bra on and taking it off plus once on you can't open the bonnet....plus the clear sections scratch the headlights [so I have to use removable film and replace this every few months as well]. So far I have looked at: car bra - cheap and nasty but does the job at sub $500 plastic wrap - not sure on its effectiveness for stone chips plus it is not as permanent, I think you have to frequently renew it vinyl wrap - expensive but seems to work DIY spray on rubbery cover - but I think this is more of a temporary thing plasticoat - seems Ok but would be very expensive. So am open to trying a new alternative IF IT IS EFFECTIVE.
- 6 replies
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- plasti dip
- car bra
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R33 gtst Slight missfire on idle... Spark plug gap suspect
tridentt150v replied to Ty1's topic in General Maintenance
^^^ as per GTSBoy says, That gap is only needed when you're boosting. At idle or just above, it won't matter. Generally at idle you could have just about any gap in the 1.2 to 0.8mm range and it wouldn't matter. See if it still happens with your A/C turned off. -
Probably just the ring gaps lined up, they will rotate with use. Its just coincidence.
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Can’t get FPR to adjust
tridentt150v replied to r34.rory's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
My Nissan one was cactus....so replaced with a SARD...been fine. -
R32 steering wheel with airbag (options??)
tridentt150v replied to cfield's topic in Exterior & Interior Styling
Or rewire it with a 2.7 ohm resistor- 10 replies
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- steering wheel
- airbag
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R33 boot stuck (valet switch)
tridentt150v replied to toldfield's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Obviously all he need to do was jam a suitcase in there lmao.....sorry -
Its your time and effort, personally I would try to do as much as I could keeping it together, but some things you will have to make a call on yourself.
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I must have missed it??? Anyway, we were all 16 once
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Are your pistons wet from the fuel? I know you have 44psi, but is it getting to the injectors? If so then it has to be in the timing somehow. You need fuel, air, and spark...you say you have all three...so then its timing. You didn't remove the blocks earth strap did you?
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RB25det Cambelt Question
tridentt150v replied to asko-25t's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
OK I will bite.....Is this a joke? -
I'd just hand rub it with some emery, clean it up, get rid of the loose stuff, then use a good quality rust paint like galmet and top coat with a normal paint. I'd avoid Killrust, cos it tends to flake off over time, takes a few years, but always seems to do it, which is unfortunate.
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Nah, can't be positive, but around $150. So your 'under $200' seems real to me.
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not clear...is the engine actually turning over? Or just the starter motor? Cos there is a jump lead from the motor to the solenoid - if the solenoid isn't getting power then the starter will not engage, will spin all day long but not engage.
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Not for ages...did get my Transam relined many moons ago and the job was brilliant. But I think the old bloke hung up his glue stick...retired.