tridentt150v

I see some ppl have their donation, member and moderator info back.....is this still rolling out or did some miss out? As far as I know - paid 3 or 5 years worth I thought, will have to ask - I am a NSW member, have donated, and also paid the membership to this forum - and got the merchandise pack :). So I would expect something to appear? But nothing so far.

Keep trying.

Did you check the motor itself at all? And try bypassing the switch and seeing if it works. Unplug it and rig up a 'hot' wire with an inline fuse. If this works then yes its the switch.

That's it...wrecker, Reco or rebuild are the only options. A keyway is hard to repair properly and its a crank out job.

Got one....and its not what's its valued at that is critical.........its what it would cost to replace it. If you went to a '17ish vehicle with the same performance and cred... you wouldn't get much change out of $50K [and could double that for some, depends on choice] IMO. BTW mine cost me $27K in 2001 with the obligatory 40K on the clock. Second hand [well probably third hand really, Japan owner, Australian importer/owner then me].

$3 for a gallon of gas????? I know US gallons are smaller but jeez!!!!!

He says power FC Josh....so yep

Repco sell them.....would be hard pressed to see the difference. And the plastic/ABS kit that SCA sells for under $10 works fine to remove the clips.

Gunna need more info Car type and year would be a good start.

Well that explains your ticking sound!!!! New oil ain't gunna fix that :(.

R12 is dead....died with global warming. R134A is the 'environmentally friendly' alternative, it is not as good cars that were made for R12, but on some later model ones you would be lucky to see a difference. I haven't heard of 134 affecting seals etc....and yes some fittings have to be changed for 134. if it was my car I'd take it to an A/C guy [or several businesses] and talk it over with them, his replies and knowledge will help you decide who knows their stuff and who you will trust.

Why cant you just replace the studs? Broken studs can be driven out and new ones pressed/hammered home.

Not a big deal, but not ideal either. I'd grind it back to shape....do you have a Dremel? And what is the fit like on the dump pipe? Is it also oversize on it? If so the same issues will happen. If it isn't then shaping the gasket is a waste of time. when I did mine I used a die grinder and cut but the rear housing and dump area down to a smooth 'same shape'. I did the same with my manifold to turbo fit as well as my manifold to head fit. ie no high points or obstructions anywhere.

That is a dry noise....no oil getting through to the lifters. Air lock maybe?

yeah, your solenoid isn't throwing out, low battery power or a sticking noid. Sometimes you can work on the noid, clean the grime out and lube with something like silicon spray and it will free up and work, or replace your battery and it works again. But sometimes you need a new solenoid/starter motor....or try what Blind Elk said. I'd also check your earth leads from the battery to the block. As a check try using a jumper lead from the negative terminal to the block and see if that fixes it....if it does then your earth lead needs some TLC.

Kerry Packer once said....."No I don't have a degree, but I employ a lot of people that do" in response to a legal matter. So a degree isn't the be all end all. But sounds like he knows his stuff.....but I am sort of concerned about alignment. And from your thread it appears that everyone is happy to bandage the sore, but nobody is asking how the sore occurred in the first place or why it won't go away. I'd think about getting another s/h one and trying again first.....would hate to see your $950 genuine new pump suffer the same fate due to an underlying issue.

Ok, thanks Dan. I'm told they are only $35 at Nissan anyway, so might get new. And yeah, you're correct, only a plastic thing, so not really made to last forever.

I was using a bit of oil so decided it was time to look for solutions [motor is still healthy], so I'm pretty sure its nothing to do with that. I took the PCV valve out and sure enough I could blow easily through both ends. I squirted some brake clean in it a few times and some black crud came out, blew it clean, squirted with a small bit of silicon spray, and it seemed to 'fix' the problem. But I can still blow a tiny bit back, so I don't have a perfect seal. Blowing forward is no problem = full flow. I reinstalled [its not a big job to remove or replace], I will likely order a new one anyway, but was just wondering how good do they actually seal? My question is should you be able to blow back through the valve at all?

I am wondering if you have some other underlying issue??? You said that the original one was damaged in an accident!!! Something is out of alignment....I really think you will have to dig deeper before grinding a new one down with the same problem!!! All those pumps and each one failing...its a clear indicator that something ain't right.

There are usually two locking rings.... you may require a C spanner....but they are probably already set at the optimum height. Some coils have dampening and rebound adjustment knobs...from the photo, yours don't. You can also change the spring for a softer rated one, or change the whole shock for one made for roads rather than drifting. But nothing is going to give you a limo ride. Face it....you have coil overs, they will be tuff!!!

So we have gone up another level?

That's better than a blown motor!!!