tridentt150v

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/295301947683?hash=item44c15e2123:g:azAAAOSwVQZjUDAS&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4JATmczXrz4muKlCaMfQlJF0xu%2Bp%2Be66dv%2BZl6sVDYWBPlxRcXxcHzxmzhY0g%2FYBYC1%2Fkr2ysmDyTnOe7RI%2FrjZ0pVz8kjyJJqae0GVxUJDc8NMkmPF1xqRLVpLkUxuDz5AK59yCVS3v6BI1DC2A11GAjPlV93dzXwXx5QG3x6jRAm4x7Oc2gFUtl2gtVBYsGXA1LGZ6BuX3YexW6jdYJNwNEuK7WpywmqJDntXuFXBR1mNffQfVWrPKWaKoIzvks19wbBG79sqWO011wrNWW%2FYqEzfV2PpnwcjrbbeReRU3|tkp%3ABk9SR-TL16SaYQ or https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/295318035312?hash=item44c2539b70:g:rWIAAOSwiIth~fDk&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4AgQhQSPbhqvW6OzHUiiW0yQxYsl2d5Z%2F9qsV6%2BAQGWP1cUQ86JZmhBWS%2B67Rjtr0WN%2FlFIP7G4YR5aE6nLXjWSrpWGSwazoQUJZBWL1Rl74vVlL8DgwMkCZlQyh6fMMgaXWRsiGQcZjBtWkHM%2FQhJazAxyd333IgX%2Fscw1RVTl1V6Y2dUn%2BSYJGZAFB8brSTlm%2FgKuZs%2BX0Yi0yKW%2FnKMcYoWTttYiMfGz%2BQtN%2Bo3Tt%2Bhxu8vnaz0yvdQUtzxS4fWcm1ujNmLnOym5qnDk6hO4fxkC4JrLDUq%2BMb4jajQq9|tkp%3ABk9SR-bL16SaYQ That's serious drug money these days!!!

tbh...it is smart to 'build/mod' an RB with a long term future goal in mind. So buy the parts and do the mods that will achieve that goal as you go...this may take 2 to 5 years, depending on cash flow etc I guess I'm trying to say that if you have to drive around with a built motor and a standard turbo for a few months till you can afford the next step, then thats what you do.

Ok then its a plug and loom check like GTSBoy said.

Have you tried a reset yet? Disconnect the battery, headlights or brakes on etc then power up again......a long shot but maybe worth a try?

yeah, I was generalising....if you do a search there is probably a plethora of detailed documents out there explaining each nanosecond of a combustion cycle. I probably could have cut and pasted any one of them for crystal clear precision...but was lazy and cbf'd 😂

Its also spraying when there is a rush of cool boosted air coming in, so immediate atomisation and swirl dispersal.

You will need to double down on the wiring. Trace from source to application renewing dodgy connections. Unwrap all insulation tape as you go, try to simplify the whole loom by removing as many solder etc connections as you can. I have examples of wires that had 5 solder connections in under 30cm of length. I also have examples of wiring that went from 8 to 6 gauge to 4 gauge then back to 8. Heatshrink, connectors, crimping tools, and an airgun will be your friend. Get some split tube and/or spiral wrap to help tidy up once done. What you are doing is building in reliability while eliminating under dash fire risk.

Low km and grade 4 to 5 for $30K I would like to see that tbh......when you look on Car Sales and other sites these days they are asking sheep station numbers for them. Is Mr L or any of his protege's still in business? TBH I am highly skeptical.

After over 20 years since their landmark 'The Shape of Punk to Come', Refused are back....

Also...thinking about the boost psi vs IDC for setting start and 'all in' values in the control module: I think that many suppliers used boost cos it was easy plus it builds almost immediately = a good prompt start trigger. But it is probably not as good as an upper limit value because full boost can be reached earlyish as the motor and power is still ramping up. Maybe suppliers knew this but had nothing better....and its still the same for lower cost Stage 1 type kits. But for a few dollars more you can add IDC to the mix. And it makes sense to me that IDC - while slightly latent as a low trigger - is superior as an upper limit trigger where you don't want the WMI to plateau too early and the relevance of IDC has a greater bearing on engine performance. I agree that direct injection of fuel + WMI + even air would be ideal, and if we had a clean slate and designed a new engine system you could do it all ....and joshua and I have debated this before. But for general driving with occasional bursts, and even for some track work, the methods we are stuck with re WMI works fine.

No was looking at spray pattern and pressure.........but I didn't measure pressure - probably wouldn't be hard to do, just T in a pressure gauge. But I didn't do it. The spray pattern and pressure visibly increased with pseudo boost psi increases. '20psi at 4500 is a fair bit different to 20psi at 7000' not sure what you mean here Ben? The pump is electric so doesn't work on engine revs - but i don't think thats what you meant? I assume that the pump creates pressure as a sliding scale, so if your trigger is say 8 psi boost then the pump might be doing say 60psi.......then if your 'all in' trigger is 14psi, the pump would say do 100psi, with a commensurate increase in delivery......these are outright guesses by me, just trying to explain as best I understand it. So its your own thresholds/inputs to the control module that determine at what rpm you will max out the WMI system and where the best benefits are. Personally I think having the system maxed out at 4500rpm means your settings/inputs are set too low for the 'all in' trigger. I am assuming that the pump modulates its voltage via the threshold values [8 to 14psi]= modulated delivery. The pump would have a voltage range it can use, say 8 to 14 volts. Reading the catalogue this seems to be what SP state but indirectly...so I can't categorically state it as true. if you were talking about using rpm as a trigger, I have no experience with that. Mine uses boost psi and/or IDC. Personally I can't see any real advantage in using rpm and some disadvantages -driving downhill , you wouldn't need as much WM when the motor is not under load is one I can think of. But greater minds than mine may determine otherwise? This is the latest catalogue: https://www.snowperformance.eu/snow-catalogue2015.pdf This is also why I questioned the OP on a Stage VI kit, Snow Performance don't list one, so I would advise some caution before any purchase. Ask SP first, I haven't talked to them for years, but they used to be quite helpful and answered all my early emails, plus there was a SP/WMI forum with very knowledgeable people on there as well. Hope this helps, not I'm really just a user who sees benefit, and have had no bad experience jus benefit while using. The biggest issue I once has was the control module display didn't turn on with ignition, I just turned the unit and ignition off and turned on again all was fine...hasn't happened since. Snow Performance might provide a more accurate answer.

If you disconnect the feed hose, then remove the jet from the manifold and reinstall it on the hose, you can check the mist spray volume and pattern by triggering the kit via one of the 1/4" boost lines [use a manual type tyre pump]. This should show you that the spray is progressive and changes with increases in boost. So its pretty easy to check, I've done it....in fact - from memory - Snow Performance asks you to do this to check that the system is working correctly once installed. Use boost [psi] because you can do this with ignition on, but motor not running. It also helps if you have somebody looking at the monitor and telling you what the psi readings are as you go. Use a bucket to spray the mixture into to save on a wet engine bay.

Ok, interesting cos Snow Performance don't list it.....and the nitrous express guys have an 'interesting' disclaimer attached the version they are selling. Does the LCD display control module come with the Stage VI? Too busy right now, but I need to check all this out. See if apples are apples!!!

Interesting, I only see a Stage III kit as their top of the rainge? https://www.snowperformance.eu/en/water-injection/boost-cooler/turbo-gasoline Can you show me where the Stage VI kit is hiding? Cos I wanted to check how the rpm signal you quoted worked and what advantages it had over IDC.

I have a Stage III Snow Perfomance kit installed - it was top of the range then [I think anyway]. Works on IDC and boost and uses a sliding scale. ie say starts injecting WMI at so 65% IDC, all in at say 80% IDC and/or starts at 8psi boost and all in at say 14psi. No E85 round here so WMI was the next best thing. Happy with it, does what I want it to, lets me squeeze a bit more out of the lemon. Only real advice I can give is, get a progressive one, older versions can come up for sale cheap but they are light switch type on/off units. There is a thread on here somewhere about it. I'll see if i can find it and post a link. A general topic one: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396164-lets-talk-water-meth-injection/ My install: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306109-my-wmi-install/#comment-5062125

Not quite Duncan, but I'll take it while I can 😂

prob only an '89 32 though!!!

And...cheaping out on an oil pump......one of the most critical components. If it fails then the whole thing goes booommm!!!

Sounds more like your tyres are rubbing on the inner guards?

is this 'on the road' or on blocks in the garage?

Maybe they are too narrow in their focus? Other useful plates could also be used: H for Hoon B for Bad driver A for inconsiderate arsehole D for drunk or drug use N for nfi etc etc etc...add if you feel a need😄

I won't hold my breath...lotto can be a fickle madam!!!

Makes a Lambo/Ferrari etc look almost cheap! But there are those with $$$$ burning a hole in their respective pockets out there somewhere!!!

TBH, and looking at the 'damage'...I'd repair that and repaint.