tridentt150v

Got an extrude honed HKS cast low mount so I would be surprised if that was the problem. Maybe an exhaust restriction eg my Cat, but I don't know and the nearest dyno is 200km away so I live with it.

A CAS wouldn't stop your motor from winding over. What boost are you running? Timing and other stuff wouldn't stop you winding over, a timing belt that is out could, but it has to be out a lot and then you are in even more trouble. Sounds like hydraulic lock, but I can't figure out how unless the fuel pump is still alive and you have a leaking injector - but that's unlikely.

Is it school holidays?....again? RU4RL You need to: a....check the for sale section b....check the trader for sale section c.....check ebay Have a good look around on sau, plenty there!!!

Law of diminishing returns Dose Pipe - we upped the boost to 22psi and only made 306rwkw. I think that unless I spend a lot more time on the dyno finding out where the weak link is and re engineer my set up I will see little gain vs psi increase. Somewhere in every tune there is a point where power and efficiency cross over, right now I am at that point for this set up.

Doing 115 in a 100 zone on an open flat straight road in good conditions and no other road users or very few people cannot be compared to what those guys were doing, they will kill someone, it's only a matter of time. Some pedestrian, motorcyclist, cyclist etc will lose their life. To my mind it is not about making a mile, it's just irresponsible and by guys old enough to know better. You would think that they would be setting a good example not this stupidity. It is very disappointing that they choose otherwise.

Cool cars, but sorry I would dob them in quick as if I saw that. It only takes a nanosecond to go from hero to zero at that those speeds. They will kill somebody one day if they keep doing that, just too irresponsible. And I am no angel either, been done for speeding a few times, but always the under 120km/h bracket and on open country roads.

I only said that because you look to have done all the usual things we commonly think of.

Ok, so you couldn't help yourself....had to go out and buy them...lol. They look well used, hope you got a good price!!!! Great workshop BTW.....what are you in the middle of the Kidney Run out near the Tanami????

Out of Japan both are hard riding and not really suitable for the aussie goat tracks we call roads - but all coil overs will do this to some degree anyway. Both have good names as far as reliability and the like, but if you have them on your car you won't have any discs in your back within 3 months - they are that hard. There are aussie built [in Tein anyway] ones that are supposed to be better for us, but u would be paying top $$$ for a set. I have Bilsteins btw....I did what Nizmo suggested, saved and bought. Not recommending them, just stating a fact, there are others that are just as good or maybe better.

Guessing....relays and fuses? the ones for the engine?

Got my renewal for the Just Cars Insurance...which was taken on by AAMI [under the same umbrella group]....sent to me by AAMI, $183 for bomb insurance. I tried to get full insurance once ages ago, but nobody was interested cos my car was [like many others on here] modified. So settled for bomb insurance and haven't looked back. The $183 was cheaper than the $224 Just Cars charged me for 2016, so nothing wrong with AAMI for me.

Easy as, I agree CAL. however I do recommend you avoid acid spills/fumes and spend the extra and only use total seal batteries. Look at Robocops photo's and the white powder...........that ain't snow!!!

nah was on the computer, and been using myRTA for ages, but the new portal just won't let me in. Went to RMS and renewed over the counter for the first time in years....and they couldn't see anything wrong with my details etc, but went home and still won't let me get past signing in. I will have to get online help.............a sub continental contact called Bob probably!!

Yeah, heat is good, I don't mind the dry heat, good swimming weather.....but the humidity this year has been hard to put up with. If I wanted humidity I would live up north ffs. And you can stick your snow [sorry Josh]....I live near it [aussie style] and hate the stuff, PITA.

Also, what does everyone use to get to the water drain on the block, the one behind the turbo? I tried a few different spanners and sockets and just cannot get a purchase on it, one thing I do know, when I finally get it out I an going to make one up with an extended head like 40-50mm hex bar and 50mm long as well. Its a PITA to get to with anything decent. Needs room for a breaker bar!!!

Me, used the M10's for attaching my Grundfos water pump to a welded up pedestal which in turn is SS dyna bolted to the pump shed floor, now I can pump water from my bottom tank to my top one....hehehe

Has anyone used the new service.nsw portal to register yet? I used to be able to easily register online at myRTA.nsw.gov.au, but this no longer exists and so was 'redirected' to: https://www.service.nsw.gov.au/transaction/renew-vehicle-registration no problem, joined up, entered my details and the rego I wanted to renew.....splat!!!! my information does not match their records.....owned the car for like 15 years, same address, same name, same everything. Car was passed for roadworthy Tuesday, green slip all paid up same day so that isn't the issue - and anyway I never got that far. Just wondering if anyone else has had this issue?

Urinal

98, I have WMI !!! E85 is impractical for me, I do mainly country miles. Hold up your right hand, count your fingers....that's how many E85 outlets are west of the mountains in NSW give or take 5 I cry when I daily my skyline... I'm pretty sure on 98 I get f#ck all more km's I need a retune me thinks I still get 9.6 to 9.8 l/100km, so around 500km to a tank, highway miles.

Blitz return flow FMIC, 256 poncams, Snow Performance Stage III WMI [mainly to control knock], an older Boss SS cat [no idea of the cell size], GT3076WG on a HKS extrude honed cast low mount and a HKS 40mm external WG and just nailed 302rwkw at 18psi, so it can be done but it ain't easy!!!

Interesting take on an old Cure song

Servicing....depends, if its standard and just going to be a daily driver, every 10K, if its boosted and/or your pride and joy every 5K. When was the timing belt last done??? Could be way overdue??? Lastly tips.....you found here so read, read, read and search, search, search. Also have a look at the Forced Induction Dyno Results section, plans start from there!!!

You want the Neo head on an RB30 block, throw the RB30 head away!! I have 400hp = 300rwkw on an RB25, others have much more and the motor is fine. Note my motor is unopened, standard just cams, turbo, FMIC and other bolt on stuff, so they are much stronger than you think!!! A Neo is stronger all over again, if I can easily do 300rwkw with my road car, a Neo will do 350-400rwkw. Use the GTT platform, the GT has basic differences like wheel studs, brakes, etc etc [can't remember it all] they are NA and so don't need the same level of strength, search on this forum others have asked the same question and been told. There is a list on here somewhere and it would cost you more than its worth to start with a GT.