tridentt150v

Have you tried Skyline wreckers in Australia....they should have what you need. https://jpjdm.com/shop There are others as well.

Most aftermarket pumps are not a direct replacement...they all work once correctly mounted, but this may involve some 'customisation' - on a small scale. The same can be said for many aftermarket products.....they are designed for cars, and made for profit......not skylines!!!

Then its not an older hose that has swelled up inside and is blocking the flow then........so it must be the clutch assembly

How old are your hoses?

Also check spark plugs and coils, FPR flow pressure and pump. But like others have said, its a chocolate wheel.....

Hard to do if your 'frame' is bent. If its badly bent then impossible until its straightened/repaired.

Failing the usual checks - google them.... There are instrument shops that can fix it, take it out and get it tested/repaired.

HKS blow off valve will sell it!!!!

If you take your front wheel off then unclip the inner plastic guard liner, there are a couple of rubber grommets on the firewall that have wires and the accelerator cable etc going through them. In their infinite wisdom, the jap workshops often slice these grommets to fit other wires for EVC and a/m gauges etc. This then creates a leak. Some Sikaflex will fix it.

There are 2 types of truckers: The big fat buggers with a wifebeater, tracky dacks and thongs, and, skinny little dudes with a pearl button shirt, Stetson and cuban heel cowboy boots.

Manual says:

That must have been an excruciating 1 hour and 21 minutes out of your life🤣

A good trickle charger or solar system 'floats'...so no there is no rule.

Mods....mods....mods.....

Mine, parked and on the solar:

Time to get a second opinion, go to another turbo/skyline/jap import type shop and get them to have a look.

I have a battery isolator as well, but a battery just sitting there slowly fades away, esp. in the cooler months. What happens is the battery plates calcify, this then stops the chemical reaction needed for effective charging and recharging. By trickle charging you stop plate calcification.

Best guesses: If the turbo was second hand, and the blue smoke [burning oil] only happened after the 'conversion' then the turbo's seal is shot. If the turbo was new or in good condition then they didn't install an oil restrictor for the turbo oil line.

Do what Gtsboy suggested though...keep the battery on a trickle charge. I use an Oddyssey PC925MJT in my R33 and it also [these days] gets intermittent use. But - so far - my battery has lasted 5 years cos its always hooked up to a solar panel and PR1210L regulator. I also wired in a blocking diode to stop night time discharge. I have a plug I use under the car and so every time I park it, I plug the solar lead into the car. The panel doesn't have to be a big one, a 5 to 10 watt unit will easily do the job. I use the same type of setup on my bikes, my excavator, and my mini dumper. The dumper has a Lister 2 cylinder diesel motor which has no alternator or generator so the solar setup was almost essential. Before I did this, I was going through batteries every 12 to 18 months.

Lol get used to being broke......

TBH....are you mad??? Its hard enough driving a modded Skyline when you are older and [dare I say it] have grey hair!!!! But driving one with 'P's' is insane, you will be pulled over and reemed by plod every time the clock strikes a new hour!!!

When you say cooler hose....You do mean air intake hose don't you? ie not radiator hose? Just to be sure! Check that you don't have a lazy pump?

Don't open the box!!! And yep mod away......redback spider gear stick knob is a good start.