tridentt150v

I just used the supplied 1/4" plastic hose, ran it with the brake lines under the car. Never went through the cab, but I did for the wiring. Also the 'do 'em up' fittings were just threaded nickel plated brass with ogive stuff. I got them off a hydraulic store here in town - no idea of the brand, generic stuff anyway. I didn't use any fancy bling bling braided or vivid colour line. If you look at the thread I posted you will see that my under bonnet set up is innocuous and to a casual inspection will not be seen as anything other than motor stuff. We all know they zero in on the blow off valve anyway lol.

No it comes of the control unit, when you turn the ignition off the power to the head unit cuts out, this triggers the solenoid. The lines are ok, but not long enough. I just made sure I got some more with my order. The quick connectors they supply are the push in metal ones, you do the fitting up then push the hose into place and it stays there. But they can fail if you are connecting/disconnecting a number of times. I still have them on my cut out solenoid, but because I was experimenting with the pump and reservoir location and setup they failed there so I went to proper 'do 'em up' jobs. Have a look at this:

Dealers work on 20-25% generally. Sell/trade your car and see how much the yard puts on it??? They aren't in it for charity. Anyway thats the stated price, you would be able to negotiate for a deal esp. if you have no trade and cash. Its had a hit in the rear, ok thats not so good, but have a look at the repair and see how well its done, and for a genuine 50K from 1994 - well how many of them are around, so IMO the rest of the car far outweighs the ding. If they give you the auction sheet with the car, then its all good . I agree though, pays to be cautious but this one, its probably OK [we never ever completely know with any of them do we].

OK thanks and if you do decide on a size, let me know.........maybe thats another thing that subscribers could have as a perk?

What is the ideal signature size and what do i have to do to get mine working again? Is there a tutorial anywhere?

A starter motor arcing across the armature will use up all juice the battery has to offer and still not work properly, plus it robs everything else of the power needed. So your spark plugs would be only getting a very weak or no spark!!!

Check that your front shock top nut is tight and your top mounting bush isn't worn. If you have any play in the shock spindle when you wriggle it then your up for new rubber/nolethene bushes.

^^^^what he said. Read the dyno thread and the other threads on FI about the 3071.......heaps of info.

http://www.dieseltechmag.com/2010/04/11-things-you-need-to The internet is your friend........do some research. Power output and where you make it depends on the setup. But it should over time do the cleaning.

Happens a bit, mine is hard [not impossible] to get into gear when stopped. Worse when cold. Fine when traveling along. I have smurf blood, it helped a bit, but didn't solve the issue. One day a gearbox rebuild is on the cards, but its not at that point just yet.

New ones, 'somebody' liked my comment on the nipple slip in General Maintenance 1 hour ago. But Harriss Racing quoted me my comment in the FI section on Water Meth Injection. So my mistake there. And I am not sure if my username is being used for any comments I click 'like' to. I was trying to make sure that my username was displayed. And interesting, Harriss Racing appears at my bell icon when I click on Notifications, but no name is displayed at the comment its just '1 person likes this'. So quoted comments are being shown with who used it, but 'likes' are not.

Ok, how do I allow my username to be shown when I click on a like? Seems like some names are displayed and others are called 'somebody'. I looked under notifications and settings but the options listed didn't seem to do this, also looked under my profile and didn't see anything.

With the SPIII kit you can set the unit to idc and psi. Plus you can start at say 14psi and have it all in by 18psi, and at the same time 60% idc and all in by 75% say. I wouldn't leave it just for the top end, I would start my ramp up earlier and have the benefits already happening but ramping to max as you and where you need it most. So I wouldn't just be thinking top end. Its been a while [cos it just works], but I think mine is set to 8 and 14 psi and 40 and 75 idc.

I think I saw it on The Voice

Get a bucket, screwdriver and hammer. Then you will know how much is left. Or rig up a hose and jerry can then use the fuel pump to pump the tank dry. This way you know how low the pump will work and your not out on a road at 2am trying to fill your tank on the side of the road. Otherwise do like they say.

They want to be careful with that rift......sounds a bit like Barracuda from Heart? But yeah good solid rock. Made me check out their other stuff on youtube.

I'd get the GTX 3076, the 3071 is probably not gunna make much more power than what you already have. And just get the maximum sized injectors [do it once]. There is a thread here somewhere telling everyone that they idle and work just fine these days. And the cost is about the same, so why not. but Glenn knows his stuff so talk to him about it.

I have the SPIII kit on my Gts25t but its a single point injection..........so I'm not even close to what you are doing. And there is plenty on here about WMI, but in all the discussions Mafia or I and others have started, I can't remember anyone on SAU talking about 6 injection points or the setup you are looking at.

FYP

Some signature jpg's [mine] are no longer being posted??? Is there a reason for this?? Also all the youtube links for What music are you listening to are broken??

Use leads and check the horn, no need to unbolt it. But be careful. I actually use made up leads with alligator clips, but jumpers will work. Also do like Duncan says with the washer bottle and disconnecting reconnecting the hose etc But try using the needle/pin with the nozzles still in place [saves work]. While your at it you can keep the pin inside the nozzle and turn/swivel it so it sprays in the right place on the screen for you. They are basically a ball with a hole in them and are designed to swivel about.

Why do you think this? Have you taken the sump off and popped a bearing for a look then put it back? Usually in a motor if the big ends are shot then the motor is tired and needs a refresh anyway. And unless your doing a quick and dirty to sell [and moral issues here] or flog to the limiter, I wouldn't do it.

That sucks....any news? Hope they all die on an ant nest, scum of the earth.

Wow eye popper!!! well done guys!!! Cudos. And yeah a dark theme would be good at some stage, wearing my sunglasses to see the screen atm.