tridentt150v

Lol, I use mine for trips. It handles ok, has good long legs, is easy on the fuel [for 300rwkw], comfortable, still has cred, and has great power for overtaking etc. The trips I take like to Adelaide and back, Gold Coast and back etc are on main roads and have 20km in 1,000km of windy road [actually to Adelaide it wasn't even that]. Even on the Snowy you only have 40km in 300. Going on the Sturt/Hume/Pacific/Newell/Oxley etc doesn't need 4wd. And yeah i could do it in my 4wd twin cab or some Kia/Hyundia buzzbox, but wheres the fun in that. And I get frustrated stuck behind vehicles and not being able to overtake, motorbikes and fast cars take the angst out of my day. And not everyone lives east of the Divide RBN1, some actually live in the over 90%. Not saying don't, just saying consider your purpose. One day I might actually get a 34 or 35, but not just yet - real estate takes priority for now.

I have 7's

But as i said, 90% of Australia is wide flat and straight, carting an extra drive train around just isnt worth it. If you live in the hills and drive on twisties or race all the time then its probably justified. Horses for courses.

I had iridiums, threw them in the bin, I don't think they liked the WMI much. Always had coppers since then..........had no issues.

^^^ yep exactly, why ever change??

amidoinitrite?

^^^ yeah now tell all how much it cost........lol. Not to mention the heartache from trials and tribulations etc Prob owes you a private island in the Pacific complete with Hula girls by now!!! Its all to do with priorities........

Just talk dirty to it, if your any good it will lube up no probs!!! Honestly any good oil brand in the grade your manual states. Penrite is a good quality and a decent price and its sort of Australian, but major brands are fine as well.

You want piano........absolute classic right here! And......

If they are listed as a direct replacement then they will be fine. Should be a reference chart on the web somewhere that will tell you. Yep, try this one: http://www.angelfire.com/extreme4/skidoolympique/SPARK_PLUG_CROSS_REFERENCE.htm Says Bosch equivalent is FR8DCX See line 1257

And one last thing, when finishing off wrapping, just stretch the tape till it breaks. Keep your thumb on the work area and it should break under it and bond in to the work area, so no loose flapping tape like you get with insulation tape.

OK, but check it out cos my intake and strut brace are in the way but I can work around them, and I leave the valley cover screw out that is directly under the intake. You can't see it and it makes it easier to do next time as well.

lol once you use amalgamating tape you will set and forget its good stuff. Only think is to get it off you need a pocket knife, it won't peel off or unwrap.

All depends on your turbo size and power goals!!! If you already have a front mount then buy a turbo to suit its capability.....unless you are considering a complete upgrade then sell sell sell and buy buy buy..............lol.

Yep amalgamating tape..........get it at Jaycar and the like. As you stretch it it sets off a chemical reaction and binds together. Stretch it heaps, if you break it then back off a little bit lol. It is not supposed to like degreaser, but I've used it and it seems ok, maybe if its sitting in it??

Hydraulic hose isn't always thick, and brake booster hose is only one type, there are lots of different reinforced hose types and sizes out there..

Return flows will do 300+ rwkw so you got a long way to go yet!!! I have a Blitz return flow and its fine.

might get away with the 3071, but need a smaller exhaust housing for the 20 and then upgrade with larger for the 25?? but tbh the hi flow is a good option, bit cheaper and when u go 25 u will be able to sell it and hi flow another one suited to a 25

And think about your driving......is a GTR and the extra 2 wheels driving really necessary? I admit they are attractive machines but if you don't track and except for a few mountain passes of 10-20Km all your driving is on wide open roads, you don't need 4wd for 99% of your driving. If its track/race, status or resale then a GTR is the go. If its not then no use paying for what you don't need, a Gtst/GTT is fine, on a typical highway you will not see the difference behind the wheel. Remember Australia is wide and flat with big distance and lots of straight roads.

Yeah, was hard to see from the pics. The example 89CAL installed was a true low mount and looked good.

Got two screens so use Bionix and a heap of wallpaper, changes every 5 minutes and separate wallpaper for each screen.

I can't comment on those attributes, I would need an example in front of me and a hammer to break a few of the welds.

Everyone has a different way of skinning that cat..........I actually went with a HKS cast low mount and got it extrude honed and hi temp coated. Lots of new stuff on the market since I got mine, but they once had the highest flow for an exhaust mani, was a chart on SAU comparing several brands and they came out on top. But I'm sure time has passed HKS and me by by now. The HKS was a true low mount, most so called low mounts are actually side mounts........is hard to see my turbo, and I liked the 'stealth' part. The external gate negates it a bit though.

What we call desirable and rare is garbage to another country............heaps of parts in landfill. They wonder why we can't get over it and move on!!! And I would...but I am about $150K shy of being able to [ eg a newish R35].

You don't take the engine apart to replace coils........prob a 30 minute job and a 1/4" ratchet driver with 10mm socket and 100mm extension. Take the plugs out and clean them, gap to 0.8mm and use again. Need a plug spanner and a set of feeler gauges and a small brass brush - don't use steel. And yeah OEM or Splitfires are the go, see whats cheapest and whats available. Or ask for help and somebody will come for beer............not sure where Glenfield is, its a popular suburban name, there are a few.