tridentt150v

Interesting...I thought I had a Mechanical Nismo Selective L.S.D. 1.5 diff?? I still have the box it came in in my shed, I will check it out tomorrow if I remember [too dark, too cold, and shed is too far to do it now]. Maybe it doesn't say 1.5?? I do know it chatters when you do a leftie around a street corner. But hooks up solid when you tramp it, quite confidence building to drive with.

Your 93 RON is our 98 RON, so don't get too hung up on that as an issue. Taken off the interwebz..... United States Vs. European & Asian Octane Ratings "In Europe 98-octane gasoline is common and in Japan even 100-octane is readily available at the pumps, but this octane nomenclature is misleading to Americans as foreign octane ratings are derived entirely differently from their own. So, like every other measurement system it seems that everyone else uses a different scale than the United States does, but unlike most other instances where we have had the good sense to create different units of measure(e.g., inch vs centimeter), in this case we all use the same name: Octane. Japan and Europe use a system called RON or Research Octane Number to determine the octane rating of their gasoline, while stateside we use a system called AKI or Anti-Knock Index to determine gasoline's octane rating. To further complicate things, the AKI system is actually derived from the average of the RON system and another more complicated system referred to as MON or Motor Octane Number. To recap, The USA's methodologies for measuring gasoline's octane rating are different, but share some common elements. With the commonality of RON in mind a good rule of thumb is: Multiply the foreign RON Octane rating by 0.95 and you will have the US AKI equivalent ( RON Octane Rating x 0.95 = AKI Octane Rating ) 98 RON Octane x 0.95 = 93.1 AKI Octane (US measure) 100 RON Octane x 0.95 = 95 AKI Octane (US measure) So, as you can see the 93 or 94 octane fuel we are all paying an arm and a leg for is actually quite comparable to the higher octane fuels found in Europe and Japan. The people whom have to worry about low octane rating are our friends out west in places like California that top out at 91 octane. 91 AKI Octane (US measure) = 95.5 RON Octane 100 Octane need from a non-US perspective is still quite high, though, as we are generally unable to easily obtain 95 Octane at the pump. As that number increases, it is more difficult to find it in unleaded variants as well. If your JDM car/engine calls for 100 octane, you'll probably be just fine running it on pump 93, especially if it retains sensors like knock and so forth which will pull timing if it's sensing detonation or incomplete combustion. If you're going to modify the engine, you should always dyno tune your car for best results and proper fueling."

That's the one thing that sold me on my R33, head room and eye level vision out the front screen was very good. I've sat in other vehicles where you have to permanently shrug your shoulders and your eye level vision takes in half the roof lining.

Hope this part is not true: "However, the interior was cramped—surprisingly so for someone like myself with my five-foot-nine stature. I must’ve had an inch of headroom at best. During the track portion of the press drive where it was compulsory to wear a helmet, I had to wedge my head under the roof to even fit in the car. Even without a brain bucket, I still felt a bit squeezed inside of the cockpit." Taken from: https://www.msn.com/en-au/motoring/news/nissan-s-2023-z-proves-that-design-and-history-overshadow-engineering/ar-AAXkyXh?ocid=msedgdhp&pc=U531&cvid=b1885017228f4a8bbccd331787e66ce0

Thats the trouble with making something too perfect.......you never want to ever loose that 'look'.

And de-rust the watermark type stains in his boot.

I'd probably go $150K given the mods, you can always come down!

Forget it, make up your own and lift the plate up and out of the airflow to the intercooler, that's what I did.

I've always done a bank cheque plus cash top up. So if you are buying a $25K vehicle....I take $20K in a bank cheque and the rest in cash cos I'll negotiate the last $5K and might only end up paying $23K or something. But I'm old school.

Got one......no longer needed!

Ages ago I bought a 60 piece toolset that was supposed to do all these 'new' styles, triangle and 5 side 'allen head' types, torx pin and non pin, forked screwdriver blade etc etc...and I swear that as soon as I bought it, they just turned round and invented a whole new range of fasteners🤢

Can you try a shield over the hose? I know you can buy heat shields for hose applications...they use them in plumbing etc. Just slide it over the hose before fitting it up? Like this>>>>https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/163553025162?hash=item2614851c8a:g:zh4AAOSwK2xgRsmv

If the wheel has the side plastic covers that hide the airbag bolts...I'll buy them off you?

Still looking

Yeah Duncan, that's what I have now as a temporary fix. But ideally would like to eventually have a functioning airbag setup....hence my question. But if i don't get an answer then I'll be taking the car to an auto sparkie with no idea of the diagnostic message [one long and two short flashes]. I thought if I could find out what the flash sequence meant then I could at least have something to check when I take it in.

On another tack...10psi sounds a bit low. You would need to test, but a 14psi would probably suit that turbo and setup a bit better.

you have removed enough....let the chemicals nuke the rest.

OK, I have always had a SAAS/Momo wheel. The car came with a very plain Nardi wheel ( I never ever had the original wheel) which I sold, the SAAS wheel has been on ever since - talking about 20 years. Anyway recently my 'go to' guy for rego finally figured out that I should have an airbag wheel ('98 Gtst). Although I got a pink slip I also knew the SASS wheels days were numbered. Since I had 2 standard wheels (bought for such a day), it wasn't a problem. I actually had one wheel refurbished with leather, alcatrana and CF and fitted it. Plugged in the airbag and got the dreaded flashing airbag light. Tried the other wheel and same result. The flashing is the usual quick flash, I thought easily solved with the 7 interior light button trick, but it didn't work. What did happen was it went into diagnostic mode and I got one long flash then two quick flashes, repeated and repeatedly. Every time I tried the 7 interior light trick it went to this 1 long, 2 short flashes. I disconnected the battery and bled the system (lights on etc) but no combination worked. Then I put my 0.7v resistor adaptor back in had to do the 7 interior light trick and problem solved - sort of. What I want to know is what this pattern is indicating? If I knew this I could do something to fix it.....otherwise its off to see an auto sparkie and round here they have zip zilch zero Skyline experience and probably diagnostic knowledge, software, or tools. PS I also tried a few other tricks I found on the internet, such as turning the ignition off before the first flash 3 times etc but nothing worked. TLDR....my airbag light is flashing one long and two short flashes......what does this mean?

In memory of Glenn Wheatley:

You won't need a rust deoxidiser with Septone converter.

Gotta admit, I'm [like many others on here] sitting here scratching my head wondering what your doing and why. The 'rust' you are having sleepless nights over is nothing. Personally I think you have made a mountain of work for yourself. Close the boot, open the bonnet and do work there.....thats where the go fast stuff lives!!!! If you must, ,,,for that 'rust' under the car, coat it with Septone converter, then use an undertray primer/bitumen type paint and forget it. https://www.repco.com.au/en/car-care-panel/paint/underbody/c/1862917956 https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/septone-septonechassis-black---1-litre/1411.html

Nah, looks like surface rust to me.....the outer skin lives in a hostile environment. You might have to consider 'de-rusting' this area as well?

I just did this on my hydraulic tank and subframe for a dumper. The battery is right next to the tank and [from previous owners] acid spilled out and ate the tank away until I lost hydraulic fluid...so I took the tank out, cut the rust affected part out and replated...then I used a wire corded type brush on an angle grinder and got the rust off the subframe and the rest of the tank. Then did the above steps in my previous posts. With waiting for the prep/primer/paint to dry between coats etc it took me around 10-12 days...hot sunny days. TBH I should have done it before, but 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' + laziness took over :).

Remove any flake or loose rust with said wire brush. Get a rust sealer like Septone and convert/seal the rust. Use a quality primer and paint over the Septone areas. Lastly paint the whole boot area, several coats, sanding lightly between dry coats. This should take care of all the rust, boot paint quality, and your time for the next few months.