tridentt150v

I just did this on my hydraulic tank and subframe for a dumper. The battery is right next to the tank and [from previous owners] acid spilled out and ate the tank away until I lost hydraulic fluid...so I took the tank out, cut the rust affected part out and replated...then I used a wire corded type brush on an angle grinder and got the rust off the subframe and the rest of the tank. Then did the above steps in my previous posts. With waiting for the prep/primer/paint to dry between coats etc it took me around 10-12 days...hot sunny days. TBH I should have done it before, but 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' + laziness took over :).

Remove any flake or loose rust with said wire brush. Get a rust sealer like Septone and convert/seal the rust. Use a quality primer and paint over the Septone areas. Lastly paint the whole boot area, several coats, sanding lightly between dry coats. This should take care of all the rust, boot paint quality, and your time for the next few months.

still looking dimensions are 51mm x 64mm

Should be a sheet saying what work they did, and a printout of power, torque, and EFR's, otherwise, how do you know if they did anything....asol very handy for future work and mods.

How many kidneys do you have?

TBH...there are a hellva lot of other cars that would be more fun at 2.8 mill....with enough spare change left over to buy some hefty real estate etc

Just go an Evo

For the money...it will be fine.

Haha....goes like a scalded sloth!!!

You should have included a link!!! Honestly though, some are good, some are less than good, you pays ya money ya takes ya chances!!! I have had a China CF rear spoiler on mine for several years now, no issues. Better than I expected tbh.

Can you fit a Skyline in the Tardis?

Must be cheaper to make...I would have thought that they would all go to allen key head or even torx...wish that they did, its easy to chew out a phillips/posidrive/jis head with a drill or impact driver. Both doing up and undoing, lost count of the times I've had to use a dremel and cut a slot into a screw or bolt then 'shock' it out with a manual impact driver to get it out.

I bought one of these: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/393628575681?hash=item5ba61767c1:g:m1QAAOSw4plcnX5c

I forgot to mention that I want the part made from an existing part......I don't have CAD drawings or a program/dxf type file. The person doing the work would be basically starting almost from scratch.

Ok thanks......I'll PM you Ben

And check out ebay USA...they are asking [maybe getting, I don't know] insane prices for used spare parts. Its only going to impact here more and more. So a bare shell could end up costing you sheep stations.

Ultimately it comes down to cost vs value........if you are happy with that then buy it.

Not sure if this is the right forum... Is anyone on here into 3d printing at all? I have a small job I want to get done, and could go to a commercial business, but would prefer a skyline person cos they would know what the part is for etc. And I know its not for free, thats fine.

bump

Armourall...looks like new...but you have to do it every time you wash it.

I always thought that HICAS won't work with a 1.5. You have to eliminate it.

Some imported 'Lines have an aftermarket diff setup. This in itself basically eliminates HICAS. So look out for them, they can be a good option.

Yep, still for sale....3rd row down, 2nd column across: