tridentt150v

If it was too tight then it should have scored the bore and the piston should have score marks on the top skirt above the top ring lands due to 'unaccommodated' heat expansion.....well thats my take.

ecu probs maybe? just a guess

I'm on 285rwkw [last time I had it dynoed] and will soon go to 300 [may be there already, but need to get on a dyno to check]. I have a Blitz the same as that or pert near.

WMI = Water Methanol Injection ie water and methanol 50/50 mix, I have a 25 litre drum and mix it myself, methanol and distilled water.

Around the $1K mark for everything, give or take. Plus I had the boot mount bracket made and powdercoated in that. I can hunt up reciepts and give you an actual price if you want. And before everyone says I was robbed, I got the level indicator, solenoid and extra tubing in that - plus mine is the Stage 3 kit.

you won't find out from me, its a road car, it I had $$$ for track time I'd only use it to buy more mods anyway [spool rods and RB30 pistons next up]. I'm pretty confident I'll get 1-2000 km out of a tank, on highway you only need it when you overtake or going up a long steep hill, so a minute or two here and there is all. But I'll carry a reserve with me and see how it goes for a while.

I haven't gone through my first tank yet, but it depends on how often you boost it and give some stick. If you don't boost it hard and your just cruising then you will never use any. I've got this set up for: 8psi begin, all in by 14psi 60% injector duty cycle begin all in by 80% so if it reaches either 8psi or 60% IDC it will begin to inject WM, I'll have to play with these and fine tune them on the dyno and as I live with it, but I don't think I'll be too far off the mark. I have to admit I haven't driven the car much just lately though, I've been working away from home and have a biggish 29 x 11 shed I'm trying to build on the weekends before winter sets in, so bloody busy for now.

a new block depends on the meat you have to remove to get it round again, it may still be within spec and OK you need to mike up the bore both ways and then check that against clearance spec's

tank looks good, the SP tank has no baffles, but the pick up is low down and I'd doubt you would slop it dry unless you have less than a cupfull in it. The pickup is actually approx 25mm lower than the bottom of the tank. Mu level indicator switch is at around 1/4 of a tank so plenty of warning. But I can see benefit in a baffled tank for sure.

The engine bay showing solenoid and nozzle location. still haven't tuned it yet [slack I know].

Cartman has it spot on, you have blow by because the bore is out of round. It should be nice and shiny like the rest of the bore because your rings are scraping, they are not scraping on your black bit. You probably didn't even notice this when driving, may have used just a tad more oil, but not much, and would have vented a bit more that usual into your catch can

are you getting your BOV and wastegate mixed up? You don't want your BOV openning too soon or too early [and theoretically if there is equal pressure on both sides it shouldn't happen [unless it is faulty], because if it opens early, it is bleeding off boost you are using.

pistons and conrods used?

did you try the trick with the door light switch? Do a search on here, but basically you hold the door light switch in and turn on the ignition then press your door switch in and out 7 times before the airbag light starts to flash. Worked for me, common problem you sometimes get it with changing batteries as well. But do a search first!!

The cost in the 3071 is in the dump pipe, I think the HKS units bolt up to off the shelf split dumps, but the Garrett item needs a custom job?

If you replaced the motor, what oil lines did you use? Also what turbo? Could be you don't have a restrictor in your oil line and you are over oiling your turbo bearing......

The only way to do it is to dyno a large cross section of vehicles both at the wheels and on the engine brake. Then generate a generic table with error bounds attached. If you take into acount, gearboxes, diff set ups, tyres, heat at the tyres, tyre pressure, power range, revs to achieve it, your doing better than me. A car that revs to 12000rpm will create more friction, a 1000hp car will create more friction, your tyres with 50psi in them generally gives more power [one for the dyno queens to remember], different brands/types of tyres will dyno optimally at different times and heat ranges, a lock diff will absorb more energy early but may actually be better at higher revs because you are using both rear tyres equally and so it all goes around and around. The only true way is to do both dyno runs with the same motor, even then you may not have the best tyre on for the job. So any any equation or ROT applied is an approximation - end of story. But a ROT is OK to use as long as you accept the bounds it creates with a high and low pass.

There is not that much lag with a 3076. I had a std hiflow before that and it was stronger down low, too quick for wet or greasy days. like driving around on ice. The 3076 is much more progrossive at the lower street leagl speeds - but it goes hard above say 3,500-4000 rpm and gives you the power where you want it for overtaking or such. I love mine, it made my car so much nicer to drive round town, but gets wicked when you stick it to it.

If you do the maths, on a 2.5 litre car and using a turbo like a 3076 at 18 psi, the optimal size is 40mm for an external gate. Afaik, only HKS made a 40mm. If you can't get one of them then you settle for a 38mm or go up a size to greater than 40, I'm not saying other ewg's don't work - I'm just thinking that they are not in their efficiency range. If your EWG is the correct size, then creep cab be massaged out by increasing your spring rate to closer to your maximum boost pressure. If you still have creep after this then you have a completely different issue like poor exhaust or manifold. And that is why you should avoid the spare parts bin sales and ebay specials, because unless you are prepared to do the R+D and sort it out over time, your basically saddling up a horse you just don't want to ride. Thats my thoughts anyway.

sounds like turbo is gone, probably OK when the oil is cold and thick, but when it warms up and thins out your turbo bearings induce freeplay. Get your turbo checked out, and get a compression test done [just to be sure you haven't done any damage in the motor. The engine check light is the one that blinks on and off when your pinging/knocking, you could have damaged a piston?

Love that, your dealing with mayhem and all and still have time to do a bit of spotting. Just another day at the office hey!!

I've got to go in before then and get mine tickled up, so I'll be seeing Glen and Dan in the next month or so. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wm...html&hl=wmi But I'll see how work etc is and might try to make it over for a dyno day as well........as usual, no promises.

I hit a 'roo on my motorbike near Bendigo and was laying on the road with the bike arse up etc and ppl drove around me like I was a bad pothole!!! I always stop if I'm one of the first, otherwise I try to keep out of peoples way.

No, just rename it "GT3076 questions?"...................I sometimes wonder what the definition of a repost really is anyway lol

also, if you think about it, one becomes a straight through tunnel with no restriction, in the other the air has to flow around the poppet valve and stem. Looking at both designs, an external wastegate is always a bit larger [they generally start at 38mm] because it has to overcome more turbulence. Just looking at the wastegates, not how the air gets there or what happens once it passes through the wastegate. No proof, just my thoughts??