tridentt150v

usually the relocation/sandwich plate has the correct location points for a cooler. I like your first option btw, no 'dirty' oil clogging up the arteries, plus it will filter better hot before it is cooled.

then its a gts............pedantisism is one of my traits!!!

begin reading now: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...bo_tech101.html If you read all the info in tech talk you should get the picture.....

But he also said engine failure, so your still starving the turbo, anyway, I'm in an industry where tiny particles jam together just like the thee stooges all trying to get out the door at the same time - irrespective, my question and the logic behind it still stands, why put a restrictor before your inline filter?

I could ask "How was your sleep"? Equilavent to a genuine 3076 but it slightly different in set up, do a search on 3037 = 56vs60 and 72vs 82 HKS vs Garrett etc etc

This protects the turbo from particles, but not starvation - assuming you are running with two restrictors and have one in at the block as well. So really you need a restrictor after the peterson, and then another one at the turbo, rather than one at the block and another at the turbo??? That way all muck gets filtered before any restriction and also before the turbo..... Am I right in my thinking? And would that be a better set up?

Its frustrating when your in the country, at least at Mildura you should have someone that can make up a rear dump etc, its a big enough place. I hired a car trailer and towed mine [i'm in a smaller town] to a bigger town once I had the exhaust manifold, WG and turbo etc all bolted up. TBH if you cannot see your way clear to buy a genuine 3076 and the fabrication involved, then I'd save my $$$$ and get a HKS 2835ProS or 3037 kit. They bolt up. Whichever way you go, plan on progressively spending at least a conservative $3-4K, by the time you amass the parts, put them or have them put on, and then get a tune. It all costs, been there done that. I went with the 3076 because I also went with a HKS cast low mount manifold, this stopped me buying anything off the shelf as a kit.

Apologies, I didn't look at the front on shot till now...........but I'm still not in favour - but as I said different folks, different strokes etc I'm proud to have a Gtst and am happy to leave it at that + I'm a less badges is better type anyway. BTW what colour is it? Sometimes looks black and other shots it has a deep brown sort of sheen to it. I'm saying black with reflection on the paint, but just wanted to be sure.

Good job, I wouldn't have the GTR badge, but each to their own!!! Like the paint, you did a good job

Yeah and then you have a puck clutch, stopped at an uphill set of lights and the car behind you is highway patrol and did I mention it was wet..............hahaha I didn't manage to explain myself out of that one, the only thing that stopped the grunt from going over my whole car was the rain!!!

Its in the dyno thread somewhere, I've added WMI since then as well. Otherwise its nothing special [except to me], heaps of other guys on here with way better setups making much more power with clean engine bays, smick paint and bling etc.

If you have a boost setting of 8psi then that is your maximum boost [excepting spikes and other stuff]. Your turbo will start to boost at pretend 3500 and will be at lets say 4 psi at 4500 and will top out at 8psi at say 6000. You can rev to 7500-8000 but you won't make any more boost, it will max out at 8psi. I'd leave your boost on hi setting all the time except in the wet, then I'd use the low boost setting so that you don't wheel spin when/if it comes on hard. The low setting will have a softer power curve. But otherwise leave it on high, you don't save anything by having it on low, you only spend fuel etc when your boosting, and you don't do that all the time.....think about it. And like Nismoid says, stop reading the DIY on the standard boost solenoid, it is irrelevant to your vehicle.

Try this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/An...rs-t145054.html

or a wreckers, most jap cars have the same size all over the place. When you gop to a wreckers always take your tool kit and a nail/builders belt and go to town..............

I'm running one and it fits no problem, just have to shave the front engine mount back a bit, nothing that a 4" angle grinder and flapper disc can't handle. I have the HKS cast low mount manifold, 100mm port shrouded Garret GT3076r with HKS external gate and it fits and works well.

They are used to seal the oil and water lines, just anneal then and then use them under every bolt or banjo where there is liquid [water or oil]. But anneal them first otherwise they will leak.

bozodos, No its not a waste of time if thats what you want to do and thats all you can afford to do BUT it is as disco states - you are limiting yourself and the turbo cartridges potential. If you only ever want a car that does 250rwkw and thats it no more end of story and its hard to set up and keep right, then go for it. But it is not efficient and doesn't reach or attain its hidden potential. Disco says why strap a 500hp turbo cartridge into a housing that limits it to 400hp or less? Everyone realises that using a true garrett GT3076R is more expensive and requires more work to fabricate and set up, but once you do this the results are you have a turbo that can unleash its true power capability, all 500hp [assuming you have the supporting mods to extract it]. I honestly don't see any benefit in using a 'special' or non genuine 3076 over a hiflowed std turbo, the power is about the same and the cost is lower.

A 0.73 rear is too small IMO. OK for making sub 250, but you will have issues over this. Anyway, much better off with an external gate if you want to make good clean power. An internal will do it, but you have to fight against it all the way, it is never easy. Just read all the threads on internal gate problems aka boost probs. Bite the bullet and get a real Garrett 3076 WG, around $2K plus water/oil and dump pipes.

Try lincorp nissan in sydney 0288444400 email: [email protected] they have or can get pretty much most things.

I've got Nismo 555's, no issue with the size, brand I can't say.

missed a FMIC, and I can't see how you would get over 300rwkw with that set up on a 25 unless you are running over 20psi then need a built motor, on a 30 maybe, otherwise more like 280 or so.

With mine I use a Z418, it has a sandwich plate, brand unknown.

I have splitfires, bottle is three litres, jet is 80mm before TB, my engine bay is not a prettied up one, functional and tidy, but no colours or such.[ maybe one day?]

HKS springs are colour coded, you will want a yellow one for 16psi, you've probably got a pale blue or white one now??? I'm with you guys, don't see how a WG can be outdated, they are a simple thing and most are all generally pretty much exactly the same except for the bling bling [blue anodising/chrome etc etc]. Spring, diaphragm, and poppet valve!! Plus if you use SK's formula for WG size, most are too big for my and other gtst applications. I'm doing over 280rwkw and according to SK formula needed a 40mm ie HKS is 40mm. Not saying others don't work, and you can have your 38, 48 or 60mm or whatever, but for optimum efficiency etc its supposed to be 40mm.

The bracket clips in at the top of the plastic holder. You push the top part of the bracket out so it slides out over the holder and then just lift out. Its one of those do it once you'll never forget how jobs.