tridentt150v

'98 Gtst, 3076 WG, HKS Ext wastegate, tomei cams, fmic, pfc etc etc etc I used to have bad knock values when boosting or loading up up a hill = around 90 to 120. I had the tune softened from 290rwkw back to around 275, I also had more fuel added and my economy went from over 500km to a tank to more like 400-450. This lowered my knock values below 5,000rpm and the car was driveable, but the knock was still there from 4500 up and at 7,000 was way too high all over again [around 100 ish]. Rather than open the motor or lower the power any more, I opted for a Snow Performance Stage III water meth injection kit. This kit works off both injector duty cycle and boost. Using this kit even in a not yet tuned for WMI state, my knock levels in 2nd gear fanging it have dropped from 100 ish to less than 30 [on a hot day as well] and the power and delivery is probably better than before as well. Once tuned I think the rwkw will rise [more timing], the fuel economy will return [because it can be leaned off = richness doesn't have to compensate for the knock etc] and my knock levels will be still sub 60. My system is a boot mounted pump and reservoir with a solenoid valve for anti drain mounted at the motor near the plenum. The boot tray or mount is a black powder coated alloy two piece unit with a drip tray under the reservoir just in case of spills etc. The motor mounts on the base tray which bolts to the boot floor and then the reservoir part bolts over this. The whole thing is designed to be modular so that you can bolt or unbolt individual components using a plug and play method. The indicator plugs at the reservoir are double ended so I can plug or unplug from both sides of the 'firewall'. The dash mounted display/control module is mounted in the ash tray hole [see pics] along with an on off switch and level indicator light, fit is snug. I cut the wires at the back of the module short and inserted a gang plug and a brass gas fitting [for the boost line] so that the dash can be taken out without having to rip out the wiring loom, so once you disconnect at the back of the display/control module, you can take the dash out and can even leave the actual unit and indicator light plus on off switch in place still mounted in the gearlever cover like the cigarette lighter if needed. Anyway I've added some pics so you should be able to get the idea from them.

I used to use filters, but found I was missing out on the porn!!! Ryco Z145a and no probs here

all sold

I run my car with a/c on on +40'C days and it all works fine, I have a FMIC and oil cooler with an Apexi radiator

use the short bayonet fitting from GCG, its only about 25mm long and you will get enough room for a neat return

Its true on a GTR, but not for a Gtst, no gains at all for a Gtst, the cams are dialed in from Tomei/HKS etc.

One for Jenny Craig I think, you can shed those Xmas kilo's in no time!!!

Tomei cams are set at optimum performance, you will go backwards if you adjust them, even 3 or 4 degree's can drop your rwkw figure by 10-20. Set them at zero and be happy.

try swapping out the AFM? could be the dreaded dry solder joint.......which I'm informed you can repair

If it doesn't happen all the time, but does happen sometimes and especially if you hit a series of bumps that trigger it then its likely to be your power steering. Not sure if the Skylines have one or not [and I CBF looking atm, and I've never needed/had to do it on one] but there is usually an adjuster on the power steering box, a screw and lock nut. Get your wheels straight, undo the lock nut, screw the adjuster in and out until you feel and know how it seats and then adjust it to firm, a bit better than finger tight, but not gorilla'ed. Usually seat it neat and then another 1/8 of a turn will do, lock it off and problem should be solved.

If your valves fit inside your guides now and have specified clearance, then you will not need to ream them. If the machine shop installs the guides while the head is hot, and they do it properly then they will have no problems, donw right the guide will not distort or change size.

After a hiflow, the only true bolt on turbo's are the HKS line, they are more expensive but they are a complete kit. I'd look at the GTRS and the 2853 pro S for that power range. As Wolverine says, the Garrett are not bolt on, they require new dump and oil/water lines. I believe the hypergears are good functional turbo's. The main diffs are in the country of manufacture and I know the Garrett is ball bearing whereas I think the hypergear are plain bearing, but others can correct me if I'm wrong.

That turbo will be OK, but it is not the best turbo [its not even in the top 10] for the job. Don't buy a cheap turbo and expect ace performance, doesn't happen like that. But you will make decent power, just not the best or most efficient etc etc. Look at the RB30 results thread and see how many are using that turbo, SFA. Then look at the turbo's they are using and the power they are making. It will be laggy, unresponsive and probably won't last for big miles. So when your travelling from Mildura to Adelaide or something it will let you down one day, one day!!!

Explained, whole car is a chinese copy!!!

Just keep in mind that yopu cannot mix your old oil with petrol/degreaser/brake fluid/coolant. Each one has to be kept seperate, they are poured into different recycle bins. I think brake fluid stuffs old oil actually.

also depends on the season and the day [and your boost or engine stress levels] hot summer 600 700-850 900 but you will see this just cruising for a couple hundred km at +40'C days and that is with a good radiator [mine is an alloy apexi 4 core item] with the a/c going. On really hot days I have to slow down to 90km/h, if I sit on 110-120km/h my oil temp - and I have a cooler - and exhaust temp increase to threshold levels.

Neanderthal or Brontosaraus........old school prehistoric, slow and pretty much extinct!!! killed out by superior species

Yes, they will fit.

2 bar is too low for 4000, should be closer to 4 bar........yep you have a problem. If you've run with that sort of OP then you've probably stuffed the bottom end. It will need a full rebuild. I'd say the oil pump either didn't have the extended collar on the crank or wasn't up to the task.

My billies have the spacer towards the mounting point ie as per instructions. On the front ones the billies don't have the spacer [well I didn't get any supplied] so I measured up a couple of thick washers and used them. But I reckon they would rub if they weren't spaced at the front, the back I becuase they said and to keep the geometry right [someone had to have figured it out before, that why they say to do it that way].

whats it like living in 1996? oh wait, I did that years ago myself, I have a biggish 3" muffler in my system between the cat and the cannon

Yep, you dropped it! Sorry, but sounds like the drop broke something, bets to take it to a speedo repair shop and get it fixed [or buy a s/h one off SAU?]

What he said^^^^^ Diesels turn gold into black treacle in 10 seconds flat.

JDM = Japanese Domestic Market Have a good one guys, I won't be able to make it on any date, too much work, not enough play........

OK, I'll ask the obvious, what boost controller, did any normal [exclude specials etc] RB's came out with a standard boost controller?