tridentt150v

I would have thought that power vs rpm would be handier long term for when your setting up the same car all the time and checking out engine mods without any effect different diff/gearbox/wheel radius ratio's would have on the result.

Hard to diagnose on the www, but the only place all these wires join up is at the coulmn switch, so I'd be taking your steering column apart and checking the switch out. It sounds like you have an intermittant short somewhere.

I've got a set, $100 plus postage......I'm in country NSW.

Replace the plastic on the joiner with fuel line rubber hose then. But those plastic covered crimps are OK, I've seen them used in some hostile environments and they are unaffected.

Metal Cat state in their advertisements that they are full on EPA legal. Cos they could be lying, but with big full page ads it would be hard to justify. I wouldn't worry about a bigger cat unless you are around or over 240rwkw, you won't need it. Save your $$$ and buy a PFC or Vipec - you can replace it when you get closer.

Insulated crimped joiners?? The hollow tube ones with the plastic cover

whats the boot trim like?

what happens if you leave the AFM disconnected???

I'm not sure, but I'd be spraying in front of the throttle body, not at the air filter, because the aerostart would have to travel through your intercooler and if you get a backfire you'd blow it all to kingdom come. Try putting a small hole in your rubber before the TB and using a nozzle taped in place [so it doesn't blow out with any turbo pressure] maybe.

Always wondered if you could get a modern GTS4 in 2.5t using a combo of parts fromt the stagea etc, probably not worth doing over an RB26 conversion though, although you would get VCT and Neo motor!!!

http://www.turboneticsinc.com/vsr http://www.turbotechnics.com/docs/turbo/balanceinfo.htm Very Small Rat

you start a new thread each time and your gunna get a kickin'.......mods don't like them there things On a std turbo and no other mods, nothing................you can get 240rwkw out of a std unit - well I did anyway.

call the thread guy, he'll get them out in no time and for around $30 a stud I think, do a search on here, heaps of references to him

a mechanic can tell you if you have sufficent fule pressure in 30 seconds, get one of those mobile ones to come to you, probably cost FA

No, if its dust or rocks then its drugs! nothing to do with ceramics. If you have negative pressure in the motor compared to the turbine or exhaust then the air will flow to that negative pressure...simple really.

And unfortunately not all shops recommended on this forum are honest either. I had one recommended on here [and people are still using him and getting ripped off] that had the hide to change thousands for a dump pipe and tune and I mean thousands. Then tried to rip me off even more with second hand goods and telling me my new stuff was faulty - what a joke. If I could I'd name him every time cos he's still doing it now........but he has his regular mates who say how good he is and propping him up - and he probably helps them out OK. The mods gave me the same treatment. What I'd like to do is post up my account and the total and say what work was not done and what work was poorly/not done as I had asked [i gave them a typed sheet of instructions] - not judge the business but let others do that. It would not be a negative thread then....................but I'd only get kicked by the mods again.

sounds like fuel starvation, check your pump, filter and regulator

I wouldn't use loctite on manifold studs, done up right they never come loose, the problem is in getting them out, they are usually seized solid. I did mine and used nickel cote on them - fingers crossed I'll be able to get them out whenever I need to without any drama's - 25,000km later and not one has gone loose on me. I periodically check them and cannot even get them to move, so they are solid as, but hopefully [with the nickel cote] not seized. But yeah SK recommends loctite - I think its asking for trouble next rebuild time [and I don't often disagree with him- son of rajab knows he's got way more experience than I'll ever have] - so its your call.

I always remember the hot rod and harley guys using heaps of s/s bolts to pretty up their rides. Works fine for short little rides up and down the main street or cruising along the beach road - but opens up and oil drops out all over the place when they go for a 500km ride on an open highway [higher speed, more heat, for longer periods]. Thye don't look so flash when they are shaking oil off their snakeskin boots. As the s/s heats up it expands and opens up mating surfaces to the point where the gasket can't cope any more!!!

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Thanks Stolly, I'll give them a look.

thanks I'll give them a go, btw no truck or aircraft suppliers here, but the internet could do it.

I want to use a bulkhead plug that screws to your firewall, but I need one that is male to male or female to female. I have to be able to plug a lead into both sides, so the bulkhead plug is a plug fit it is not soldered or hardwired. This way i can remove the bracket and bulkhead plug and leave the wiring loom on either side of the firewall in place. I've looked at RS and Farnell catalogues [as well as Dick Smiths and Jaycar] and didn't see anything, but I'm no expert and was hoping to tap into someone elses expertise. The plug will be used for a 12 volt reservoir level indicator for my WMI kit, so 12 volts but low amps, two pin preferred, but up to 4 is OK. Can anyone help? Even a pointer to someone or a website that can?

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