MaximuSmurf

Closed/ Secret FB group, I assume it's a GTR for sale. And I didn't think cross posting to for sale ads was allowed?

Time to let the S15 go now after 8 years of ownership. Somewhat negotiable depending on ease of sale and additional parts wanted. I hope the below will convey my efforts for quality and doing things the 'right' way. $24,000 ono I've spent an awful lot of time researching and money spent to try and build one of the most versatile and responsive street cars. Probably most responsive, driveable, and usable 338rwkw you can make. Excellent static response from the medium sized Borg Warner, twin scroll manifold, smaller cams which retain VCT for great low-mid RPM power and torque. Plus the fantastic transient (off/on boost) response from the EFR series turbos. Combined makes ~260rwkw by 4000rpm Safety measures always used including having a turbo speed sensor to ensure it's never pushed past it's manufacturer recommended maximum (sitting at around 90% at the moment) Have a massive stack of invoices for all work and parts done to the car over the years. Forged engine (258 poncams + VCT) - JE Forged Pistons - Scat Forged Conrods - ACL Race Bearings - ARP Main Studs - ARP Head Studs - Nitto Head Gasket - 'Performance' Valve Springs - Tomei 258 Poncams - New VCT Gear (<3,000kms old) - Springy Motors specially designed rocker arm protection guard to prevent damage to engine rockers (much improved over other designs) - All professionally machined and installed Full-race T4 Twin Scroll High mount manifold (with 2000c thermal coating) - External wastegate model with the ports clamped shut should you want ot go to EWG in future Borg Warner EFR7163 Turbo T4 Twin Scroll 0.80 rear (custom braided lines) - Upgrade Turbosmart EFR series BOV Borg Warner Turbo speed sensor wired into Link G4+ ECU Link G4+ ECU - Canbus Wideband - Ethanol sensor to ECU for Flex fuel Mazworx topfeed fuel rail (custom braided lines) Bosch 1650cc injectors Turbosmart FPR800 Fuel pressure regulator Inline 100micron fuel filter - much easier to access and replace compared to stock, also washable and re-usable Walbro 460LP/h Fuel Pump - direct wired to battery with safety relay in place Havoc Fabrications front mount intercooler piping and - Aeroflow core (not through battery tray) Havoc Fabrications custom turbo intake with pod filter - Enclosed in a box for neatness, legality and lower intake temperatures Havoc Fabrications custom 3" Turbo back exhaust - vband at turbo, high flow catalytic converter and high quality magnaflow muffler - Tucks up nice and high under the body for great clearance RB25 gearbox with Z32 bellhousing (Engineered to Slide conversion) NPC Heavy Duty Organic Clutch GKtech braided clutch lines Hardrace hardened rubber Engine and Gearbox mounts Whiteline swaybars front and rear Shockworks coilovers SPL Camber arms Nismo GT Pro 1.5 Way LSD Enkei RPF1 wheels 17x9 +22 wheels - 255/40/17 Federal RS-RR on the front - Brand new 255/40/17 Hankook RS4's on the rear Full vertex bodykit kit JDM bits - Steering wheel - Seats - Electric fold in mirrors - Silvia badging inside and out Custome Blue EL backlit dash Pioneer BT headunit with handsfree Custom neat 10" sub box with amp - Mounted in the boot in the S15 'shelf' - Quick release plugs, for fast removal / install (~2mins) Owned it for 8 years (since it was a simple 190rwkw with stock turbo) 265,000kms on chassis (120,00kms on it when I got the car), about 7,000kms on engine. It's my daily driver and is always treated with care. Always warmed up correctly before driven. Fresh full synth oil every 3,000-5,000kms. Last pic shows has perfect front height and car fits perfectly over any 'standard height' gutters. Only accident (to my knowledge) was cosmetic panel dent years ago while I owned it. No RWC included.

Yeah did see and look into those, wasn't 100% of connections etc, plus mate had a spare Arduino board so was 'easier'.

Yeah, I'm thinking that. EFI Solutions has a 68mm Bosch Electronic Throttle body I'm looking at. Link has an e-throttle module too so SEEEEEMS pretty straight forward. But it's been a fairly rough 18 months for the old S15, lots of issues and breakage, MORE than enough power for now so that's super low on the priority's. You are corrected. Mate made a little Arduino board to convert the signal down to a usable hz rating. 0 - 100hz = 0rpm 100 - 500hz = 200,000rpm (50,000rpm every 100hz) And I've got that hz number logged in the Link ECU logging history now so can see it over time / rpm / etc. Bit of mucking around (mostly from my mate, Thanks Matt ) but certainly nicer than the ~$300+ converters and gauges. This way the Link reads it so I can also do things like safety cut or alerts against the values ie >400hz = a bad time

Yeah pretty stoked with the result. 260rwkw at 4000rpm with EFR transient is a freaking hoot to drive. It's my daily, so nice around town and through traffic etc. Turbo RPM implies there's a little more on the table up to, I'm thinking larger Throttle Body, but it's a bit of a handful already so I'll be prioritising some upgrades for more stable rear end grip first.

It's still using a 3 port solenoid (link one). Preload is about 10mm (didn't count turns). Not even running the dueal port WG as a dual port setup at the moment. Single was working fine. Once the link was controlling boost, converted to MAP, changed cams to new 258's (don't think cams helped anything), and upgraded to the Turbosmart BOV it seemed to hold boost alot better.

Finally got a few fixes put in place, had to do a little extra work the last few months as the poor little SR20 kept snapping rockers. For now she's on 336rwkw and 615nm Torque, turbo is sitting on about 138,000rpm at it's peak. All holding up well at the moment.Since the last boost holding issues I've changed the following; - Added Link NS15+ ECU (MAP sensor now) - Turbosmart BOV (recirc) - Tomei USA new 258 cams - Brand new VCT (old one was rattling) This is EFR7163 T4 0.80 rear and is still internal gate (with a Turbosmart Dual Port 24psi actuator). T4 TS high mount on a Full-race manifold. Picked up a little more through the mid of late, nice torque figures. It's a little bit of a handful to drive as it comes on so viciously but I'm slowly getting used to feathering throttle on a bit more and have some more rear bush and suspension work to do which will hopefully give some more read end grip. Still running the stock S15 throttle body, which may be restricting some flow up top, might try the slightly larger SR20 NA throttle body (or S14 one) down the track.

No just a 3 port. Most people I've heard say not much advantage to 4port. And yeah it's the 24psi spring that comes in it, they have different psi versions you can buy. By all accounts you'd have a much cleaner more stake and better result with ewg

I'm not sure. Unfortunately I wasn't there when the tuner was finishing up so I didn't get a huge amount of details about some of those little niggles. Will go back for a touch up with the new bigger fuel pump in and see if that helps smooth anything out.

Thanks. And not 'really'. Line is a little wavy but pretty flat holding ~25psi the whole time now. Internal gate is always a little tougher to manage but I'm trying to squeeze the best result out I can before going external gate. Just because $$$ and legality here in Vic (not sure who I'm kidding about legality after going high mount). Drives really really well. It's my daily driver so just putting around town and the streets is great. Beautiful torque and pull down low. You REALLY use that BW transient as you can come off/on throttle and it's quite effortless to get moving again. It does break traction in the dry in a straight line in 3rd now... soooo.... I'll do new subframe/diff bushes and some rear suspension arms in the hope of providing a little more rear grip, if that doesn't work I might run a little less boost just to make it a little less of a handful. Not tooooo sure why I'm getting such a huge power drop after 6000rpm, maybe the cams are just too small. But to be honest I'm not that fussed, just want to be driving the car now. Will probs drop the RPM limit a bit for safety to prevent me snapping anymore rockers and see how she goes. Ideally I'll start putting some $$$ away to chuck a P12 head on in future which will fix me having to replace VCT gears and hopefully stop the cam bottleneck (if that's what it is).

Sure: - Forged engine, pistons, rings, rods. Head studs, main studs, nitto HG, stronger valve springs, RAS. - Full-race T4 TS Manifold (ewg but with the ewg ports blocked off with vband plates so I can use in future if I want) - BW EFR7163 0.80 TS. TS Bov. TS Dual port 24psi actuator - Bosch 1650cc injectors in top feel rail. All braided lines, aftermarket fuel filter. - Havoc straight intake and 2.5" custom intercooler piping with new Aeroflow core - 3" vband dump to cat, resonator, muffler (3" all the way) - Link G4+ S15 plugin ECU - Walbro 416lph fuel pump direct wired to battery That's about it for the turbo / engine / power setup. I really love the result but alot of me would be hard pressed to recommend it given the cost and issues I've faced. When something like a new GTX2867R Gen2 will perform 90% as well in basically bolt on configuration with stock manifold etc..... certainly way less headaches.

While there's some sr20 chat. I got mine re dynoed last week. Changes / upgrades and attempts to fix boost drop were: Link g4+ ecu (controlling boost now) New boost solenoid map sensor instead of hpx afm New iat sensor Canbus wideband controller New vct gear (old one was rattly) new tomei 258 Poncam (maybe more ex flow) Was pretty much better everywhere. More response. More power on less boost. Pretty fantastic result. My gen1 Walbro 416 fuel pump was maxing out so will probs change to the new 525 one and retune to smoothen things out. Car also lasted about an hour before the original (260,000kms old) rocker arms snapped (two of them) so getting new ones out in and dual shim setup on them done this week to get her back on the road. 338rwkw and a really meaty midrange of about 260rwkw at 4k. Full boost at about 3800rpm. Green is the final result. The 'shit' red one is the last 307rwkw with more boost in the mid but less power overall especially as tapering off.

Also sparesbox are pretty darn expensive, and seem to just jack up all their prices whenever they have a 'sale'.

Agreed. I've seen a couple on SR20DET's and SR20VET's and they're running 360-390rwkw. Mostly to err massively on the side of safety and longevity.

I would highly recommend AGAINST the 7163 for your track use. IMHO the rear exits are too small for TS use. I would think a 7670 and 1.05 (MAYBE even the smaller 0.92) would be perfect. The 7163 only come in 0.80 rear in TS form which I believe (no expert) chokes too much, especially under higher RPM. FYI I'm running an EFR7163 on T4 TS SR20DET. I will be pushing it HARD to get maximum response and power for street / light track duties. But the small lag hit I think you'd be wanting the extra ~80-100rwkw and freer flowing turbo setup.

It's interesting to see how everyone perceives lag so differently. Maybe it's because AWD and RB26 land with more rpm. But Kinstaah's result is fckin amazing in my book. 394rwkw at 18psi. Surely capable of ~440rwkw+ if you wanted to lean on the turbo a little more. IMHO that's more than enough power (especially in RWD). Can't recall if he popped the dyno sheets up but I'm pretty sure it's making just over 300rwkw at 4000rpm. It is comparable (but next level) to the response and pickup I get with the 7163 on my SR20 (250rwkw at 4000rpm). Makes for an amazing road car, spools very early and really picks up and goes without having to wind up the rpm much at all. I can't fathom possibly being happy with a turbo that doesn't make full boost until 5000rpm or later. On something a little more 'standard' like a Neo RB25 I'm sure the 7670 would be an absolutely fantastic option. Awesome driveability with IMHO more than enough power. Again just my opinion. And maybe it's different in 4wd land, but I don't see how you can USE more than 400rwkw on the road, especially taking into account the pressure you're putting on your engine, gearbox and inevitably very heavy duty clutch.

Ah yep, I tend to forget about the 7064 for some reason. TBH wish I'd gone that direction at times to lose a little response for a better flowing rear (comes in 0.92 in T4 TS, instead of the 0.80 the 7163 comes in). Again, hard to compare when I'm not sure just 'how' responsive your current setup is. What's the curve look like? When are you hitting max boost or torque?

Also Blue, the devil's advocate in me wants to also maybe suggest one of the new G25-550 Garret turbos. They come in a T25 with 0.49" rear which by the looks of their specs would get you a very responsive ~250rwkw on 98. I'm certainly keeping a close eye out for results on the new Garret series. (But I promise I still love my EFR guys, don't hate me)

Hey Blue, I've got an EFR7163 on an SR20DET, so not too dissimilar setup. I am running e85, and have had a couple of issues with back pressure with a T4 TS mani and internal gate. I can certainly attest to the response with a 'big' 7163 on a 2 litre. I'm running 307rwkw currently and making 250rwkw at 4000rpm. I have VCT, fairly small cams and as I said e85 so all that will help a little with response. There's no T3 options in the EFR range (that I've seen). So you're on t25, vband or T4. I would think a 7163 in vband (the largest rear, which is a good thing for these) and external gate would be the way to go. Hard to say without knowing exactly how responsive your current turbo is. I would think 98 and ext gate would net you near 280rwkw and only lose a 'little' in response (compared to mine). FYI I'm not super familiar with RB20 setups. For anyone else who had any interest in my setup / results I have some weirdness with my Nistune ECU and the HPX AFM. VCT is also rattling a little and getting tired. And can't really hold boost with internal gate. I'll probably switch to Haltech ECU for boost control, MAP sensor, OBD gauges, engine protection based on turbo speed rpm and a few other things. Hopefully that'll iron out some of the current bugs. Otherwise I'll just say f**k it and grab 2 x 38mm gates and go external setup which SHOULD get around the boost holding issue.

Very curious to see how your sr20 goes. Det or ve? I've got a 7163 t4 Ts internal gate on full race Mani on my sr20det. So keen to see what your response is like going to a 7670. What do you use the car for? Assuming you'll be getting around 380rwkw on that setup.

Well I have an EFR 7163 with 0.80 rear housing (T4 TS) on a little SR20. I'm hitting 29psi by 3800rpm. 320rwkw peak, and 250rwkw by 4000rpm. Certainly fantastic response. That's on e85 too. I imagine it would be insane on an RB25, might balance out if you're planning 98 fuel and stock mani as you'll lose response on both counts.

Just grabbed these off the GCG website. EFR 6258 - 166,300 RPM EFR 6758 - 153,900 RPM EFR 7163 - 150,600 RPM EFR 7670 - 139,200 RPM EFR 8374 - 127,000 RPM EFR 9174 - 125,000 RPM (taken from Full-Race website) EFR 9180 - 116,000 RPM

I've got the EFR speed sensor on my S15 (SR20DET). Hits 29psi and tapers to ~23psi. This peaks up at ~140,000rpm (can't remember exact figure). Max turbine speed for each EFR turbo is well documented, pretty sure it's in the manual. My 7163 is 'rated' to 150,600 rpm. Full-Race website lists that the EFR 9174 turbine RPM 'max' is 125,000rpm. I bought the sensor so I could push the turbo to it's top end limit on my engine and still feel a little 'safe' in that it was still within manufacturers specs.

Yeah I'm curious too. I have a genuine efr one to go on my 7163 and it's freakin huuuuuuge. Same beanie they fit on the 9180. One size fits.... Most

A mate bought it through them. He was in the same boat. Ended up selling his brand new turbo and buying that package deal from them as it saved him so much on the manifold.