MaximuSmurf

Haven't seen them advertised. Yes that pretty standard or even good turbo pricing. Ask them for package deal with Mani.

Sorry I bought my mani locally off someone who had already imported. Probably depends on what you're after. I was under the impression you're almost certain to get pinged at customs these days. Especially if it's one package and valued over $1000. It does seem Hypertune were doing some good package deals. Low or high mount SR20 T4 TS manifold AND a BW Turbo (7163 for example) for about 3.5k... that's a damn good deal to me. Wish I knew about it when I bought all my stuff.

Did a test after I got the actuator removing the boost controller all together to test what pressure the actuator alone would hold. Connect comp cover direct to actuator. The actuator holds about 16.5psi with the 26psi springs in it. Assumed drop due to back pressure pulling gate open which they don't account for when setting up the actuators.... Right? I'll double check boost controller ports when I get home tonight. But it was changed around a few times and I'm quite confident that plumbed in correctly. Also changed all small hose lengths a few times so don't think there's any leaks there. Cars pretty quiet on idle with no audible noise leaks so I don't think there's any exhaust leaks there. Just updated up to run 'real' turbo rpm speeds. Will do some testing now. Pre turbine pressure testing will be done in the next week or so when I can get back down there to get it fitted and back on the dyno.

Running a 0.80 rear. Largest and only size in the T4 TS range unfortunately otherwise I think I would have gone bigger.

First of all, thanks heaps for all the feedback. That does make complete sense re: the grey line. I must have misheard or the test with that line must have been a little different to what I recall. We tried a few different configuration of reading boost. Had a couple of different gauges going at the same time at one point to make sure things were reading the 'same' as we expected. Boost solenoid was tried a couple of different ways to make sure it was running and setup 'correctly'. Attached is the Greddy Profec manual of how to setup for external wastegate (I believe same as dual port internal). It appears you're right on the blades. Mate wrote an app that reads the speed sensor however the BW EFR manual we have (for 7163) implies it's 14 blades (attached). He just updated the app so read as 12 blades, will check tomorrow and should see numbers closer to what you referenced. Will check out the actuator throw. Seems pretty straight. Uses the standard EFR bracket, and it's the Turbosmart one specifically designed for a B1 framed EFR turbo. Yep will be getting the pressure tests done... soon (been an expensive couple of weeks troubleshooting this).

I did forget to add that. That's also on the list. Will be adding a pressure gauge onto one of the block off plates.

Hi all, so I've got some niggly issue with my EFR setup I was hoping you kind hearted souls my be able to help me flesh out. Basically I can't get this thing to hold boost accurately. As in there's a ~4-5psi drop from peak to redline. And I'm not confident the turbo back pressure issue will be fixed with EWG. There is some consensus that there's 'too much' pressure in the turbo rear housing. This is essentially pulling the internal gate open. This could probably be bandaided by going to EWG. However this may not actually reduce the pressure all that much, just make it easier to manage and hold boost levels... in which case high rear turbo pressure over time... seems like a bad thing for the setup to be coping with. I'm a massive noob, I do a reasonable amount of the mech work myself, along with some friends who are smarter than me. I'm an IT guy so try to research the crap out of everything and have tried to make 'good choices' and choose quality parts for the setup. Car is my daily, it gets some circuit / drift / motorkhana track days too. So my point immediately above is, I understand somethings I say may not make sense (because my understanding is lacking) and only going off what I've learnt thus far, more than happy to hear other peoples differing opinions. Have attached some pics. Latest power, torque and boost sheets (initial low boost, current low boost, and high boost are the three lines). Also have one which shows a bunch of psi runs, one grey line in the middle is pressure taken from the cold side between intercooler and throttle body (all other pressure are hotside, usually from turbo comp housing) so it seems to stay flat after the cooler. I've removed the tuner name from sheets just so this doesn't turn into a "Your tuner is shit" pissing contest. Car - Nissan 200sx S15 Engine Setup: - Forged SR20DET (pistons, rods, rings, bearings) - Tomei Poncam 256 with 'Performance' branded valve springs - Still using VCT - Pod to 3" intake (to 2.5" at turbo inlet) - 2.5" intercooler piping with brand new Aeroflow core - Full race T4 Twin Scrollt EWG manifold (EWG are blocked with vband plates) - Borg Warner EFR7163 T4 in, vband out - Turbosmart Dual Port Acuator with 26psi spring - 3" turbo back exhaust - Greddy Profec B Spec II boost controller with original 3 port solenoid Have tried: - Using original BW 'high boost' canistor. Only held 7psi, 10psi with more preload - Upgraded intercooler core (old Blitz one was a slight restriction). - Test exhaust back pressure in wideband port (up near o2 sensor). Only 3psi pressure which should be fine. - Dropped exhaust after front/dump pipe to ensure was no exhaust restriction. - Running new Turbosmart actuator in dual port and single port mode (performs about the same) - Have EFR speed sensor hooked up and that's only hitting ~112,000rpm at the current peak of ~28psi (has a 150,600rpm 'max' from BW Thoughts about testing next: - Borrow a mate's 2 x 38mm gates and whack a temp screamer on - Thorough checks / testing for Vac leak somewhere (suggestions on 'best' way to do this??) - Put more springs in the Turbosmart internal gate (I fear this will help but hide the pressure issue and reduce engines life) - Sell the car, buy a Hyundai Excel and never worry about boost drop again?

I've got one. Just took it off my S15. Bought it a couple of years back brand new. Had a brand new plug with wiring to go with it too. I'm in South East Melbourne. Glen Waverley / Clayton area.

Seems like a nice piece of kit man. I'd certainly recommend sticking on the power you're on. I've got 270rwkw S15 and I certainly wished I'd just focused on suspension setup and done more track days than worrying about power. Mine is a daily to be fair (only one car). And it makes a fantastic, daily, weekender, drift, and circuit car now. But always more to do. Never quite happy with it now that I've gone 'full retard' and always upgrading something to move that point of failure further along the line. A solid 'fresh' SR20 should run for ages at that power, your gearbox and clutch are quite safe, heat's not much of an issue. Maybe some aero and you're sorted. I'd focus on doing track days for a few years with the current setup. Maybe look at replacing when something major breaks.

Sounds good. Would love to know if you could confirm manifold and cams being used. Was expecting a LITTLE more if it's a T4 TS mani. SR20's do love a cam increase, so will hurt it alot if running stock cam. Got a dyno sheet?

I'm gagging for those SR20 results. A fair few results on SR22DET or SR20VET or SR22VET.... but not much with a more 'simple' smaller cam, standard-ish SR20det setup. Would love to see what poncam, e85, t4 ts mani and EFR 7163 would look like (graph)

And location is Glen Waverley, Victoria.

Whoops. $25,000 Also forgot to mention car has installed and comes with the following: - Greddy eboost II prefec B boost controller (installed) - Tein strut brace (installed) - Whiteline front and rear sway bars (installed) - Standard exhaust (comes with) - 350z wheels with some Jinyu tyres. For track, drift, etc (comes with)

ADM Nissan 2001 200sx Type S I'm looking to put my pride and joy up for sale. Had my fun and REALLY enjoyed the car for the 5.5 years I've had it. Trying to save some money and move to something a bit more basic (but still a little fun) to get around in. I've spent alot of time researching and typically used the highest quality workmanship and parts available to me at the time. I'm very big on doing things once and doing them 'right'. I've also focussed hard on making the car as legal and 'stealth' as possible. Car is my daily and has been the entire time I've owned it. I've set it up for daily/weekend/circuit/drift use. It's only done a Haunted Hills day as well as a handful of Motorkhana and Beginner drift days (Primal and Drift Skills). Car runs and drive fantastically. Slightly laboured when it's super cold. 1min warmup and it's good to go. Always taken care of and treated with the mechanical respect she deserves. Service every 3-5000kms depending on time and events. Always used premium full synth oil (10/10ths or Motul). Fuel filter also changed every service. Super responsive and very driveable setup. Full boost at 3600rpm. 'Only' running up to max 23 psi (tapers to 19psi) on e85, less on 98. Car makes 271rwkw on e85 which is what I put in it 99% of the time. Had full flex setup and runs fine on 98 just less power / response. Have a MASSIVE wad of receipts for pretty much everything I've ever purchased for the car. Will come with Rego till April 2016 and a Roadworthy Certificate. Exterior / Aesthetics: Genuine Work Motion CR Kai wheels (18x8.5 front and 18x9.5 rear. Great fitment, legal-ish, no rubbing or scraping at all) Vertex side skirts Vertex rear bar JDM fold in mirror JDM seats JDM dash JDM badging on car JDM steering wheel Pioneer bluetooth headunit, quite new, works well. Pioneer front split speakers Amp and quality sub in boot (all in a custom sub box that sits in the 'shelf' to take up minimal space. Also has quick release mount, power, speaker cables. Can be removed in ~1min, SUPER handy for track days.) Performance: SR20DET rebuilt / forged ~15,000kms ago (Built by Forced Motorworx) Forged pistons Forged rods New rings ACL race bearings Cometic head gasket ARP head studs Tomei Poncam (256) Performance valve springs Deustchwerks 950cc drop in injectors Walbro 460lph e85 compatible fuel pump Z32 AFM Nistune compatible flex sensor Nistune ecu with flex functionality Garret GTX2863R Kinugawa turbo actuator with 19psi spring Earls Braided turbo lines Standard airbox Custom intake to turbo (black) Havoc custom intercooler piping (legal, Blitz core) Unknown 3" dump / front pipe (seems 'fine') High flowing cat Havoc cat back custom 3" exhaust (tucks up nice and high for legal reasons) Handling: Near new Yokohama AD08r tyres (235/40/18 front, 265/35/18 rear) - SUPER grippy! Shockworks coilovers SPL rear camber arms Drivetrain: Nismo 1.5 way GT Pro diff (4.11 ratio) R33 GTS-T gearbox (excellent condition, uses Engineered to Slide kit) NPC Heavy duty organic 10" RB25 clutch Braking: Slotted rear rotors and upgraded pads Slotted front rotors and upgraded pads I would be interested in trades plus cash my way but would have to be something interesting/fun/cheap for around 10k. Would consider something like: - e30 BMW (engine swapped?) - e36 BMW (engine swapped?) - VW Polo GTI - etc NOT interested at all in anything like: - Auto - Skyline - Silvia - Supra - Commodore - Falcon

Interesting. I'm running aftermarket Kinugawa actuator on mine with 19psi spring in it. Currently hits about 24psi... then tapers down to ~19psi.Would love to be able to hold the ~24psi all the way, would net a little more top end and pull a bit harder once up and going... that's about the limit though. 0.64 rear housing so it chokes a bit with anymore boost. PS. Yeah I'm running the Walbro 450lph fuel pump too, hard wired... no issues thus far.

SUPER interested to hear about these results. Is it a stock / forged SR20? Most people seem to be running these on SR22's or VET's. Hard to find much info on a 'plain old' SR20. So you're running EFR 7163 on SR20 with T4 TS internal gate? Low mount Hypertune manifold? High mount Fullrace manifold? This is the exact combo I was looking at. NOTHING wrong with my current GTX2863R setup (except it doesn't hold boost very well). Looking for an excuse to go to BW town. Was looking at 6758 for crazy response setup, but from what I'm reading there will be minimal loss in response going to 7163, and much nicer fat top end. Got a dyno chart of the setup? FYI I'm running forged engine and e85 setup (although currently maxxing my 950cc injectors). Greddy Eboost Profec II Spec B (who comes up with these freakin names). Z32 AFM, Nistune w/flex.

Hypertune do a low mount TS T4 manifold for an SR20det.... so I imagine you could get one for an RB. That's what I want 'eventually' with an EFR7163 attached.

There's a guy selling an EFR7670 in NSW somewhere.... comes with high mount T3 manifold for SR20.... but still... $2800 I think. PM me if you want details and I'll try find the link.

You're running internal gate? Do you mean whether you get the soft, medium or hard spring in the internal actuator?

Was literally at the top of the first Google search. Banfield Ct, Laverton North VIC 3029, Australia

Another update. GCG just advised they won't be getting those compressor housing till at LEAST May this year. I'm not in a rush but just an FYI in case anyone else was keen.

Yep me too.

Gcg got back to me and said they can get them in for the 6758. Not sure on other sizes. They don't carry them as they're brand new and don't have any on order yet. But maybe email them if anyone is interested in converting over.

Sorry didn't have notifications on so I missed this. I don't believe so. I have access to a few, tried to 'recover' account already. Can advise what accounts I can access over a PM. But I'm not 100% sure what account was used.

Yeah I've emailed GCG to see if they can get it in. Will try Fullrace in USA if they can't.