smoothV35

I would never have guessed that, mystery solved, thanks for that!

Theres a cord coming out from behind the centre console and on there is a button on the end of it that you can toggle off or on and I have no idea what it does. Obviously its for something aftermarket and I think that whatever it was, its been removed but they didn't bother removing the button. I've looked through the japanese auction photos of other Skylines and found a few that have similar buttons mounted at the same locations, does anyone know what this is for?

Hey guys, I have researched this quite a bit since I have the 350GT-8 myself. The information I have may already be known, but its scattered around so I'll put the most important facts here. 1 - The transmission was made by Jatco Ltd. They make transmissions for a lot of major car companies worldwide. (www.jatco.co.jp/ENGLISH/index.html) 2 - However the rollers within the transmission, (utilising molybdenum for durability) were made by NSK Ltd. (www.nsk.com) 3 - The unique transmission oil was made by Idemitsu Kosan Co. Ltd, they even won awards for it. (www.idemitsu.co.jp/e/lube/index.html) Now onto the question of maintenance. Below is a graph from the Idemitsu Kosan website which shows the practical performance of the oil over a given distance. You'll notice that the fluid degradation starts rising at around the 90,000km mark, and from that point forward, rises steadily. This, in my opinion, would indicate that a complete oil change should occur at no later than 120,000km, to minimise potential damage. My 350GT-8 is at 130,000km and is only now starting to show signs of deteriorating performance. I will have the new oil in a few days, then I can change it and update all on the difference a change makes.

Hi mate, you're in luck The shipment I ordered from Japan will be here in about a month, with which I was planning to do my oil change with. Recently though, the gearbox played up and some error codes came up when using the Consult-II tool, basically it was indicating that the speed sensors were returning an error. It would be easy to assume that the speed sensors need replacing, however the CVT experts I spoke to disagreed. It seems that when the oil ages and loses its integrity, it doesn't provide sufficient friction between the rollers which causes them to slip at random intervals, especially when it heats up after a long drive on the highway. This in turn sends fluctuating signals to the speed sensors which causes them to log an error. In light of that fact, the dealership we bought the car from is taking responsibility for this issue as the car is still under dealer warranty. Therefore they are ordering oil in a.s.a.p. and getting a workshop to change it over which will leave me with the 8 litres (2x4 litre cans) I ordered myself, sitting around collecting dust. If you decide you want this, just PM me and we'll sort out the finer details, thanks mate.

Yeah Chris decided to front up with the info so all good. Anyway, I've moved on from you, don't you know humour when you read it? This relationship we had is over, you can stop posting in my topic now

Sounds like I really got to you Chris, you need to loosen up. And you are totally wrong about me not giving my 'trade secrets' away. If I can help someone with an IT problem, as long as its a fairly quick solution like my NATS problem, then I'll tell them. Lets face it, you aren't going to get rich from helping people reposition an antenna, but you're trying thats for sure, especially with the prices you charge just to hook up a gps to the aux input. Have a look at one of my other posts, I have found a way to get the CVT oil into Australia at a vastly cheaper way than anyone else and I'm offering to help others that want it, not keeping that little 'trade secret' to myself. And since when did we start wrapping people up in cotton wool? I've heard 5yr olds call someone a name that was far worse than 'Captain Obvious', don't tell me I've scarred Stephen for life after that, haha Last time I checked, this is a forum and its open for people to give opinions, and thats what I gave Stephen, what you gave me, and this is my final opinion on this subject.

I work in IT, exciting stuff I know, the ladies go wild when I tell them, haha

I know what you mean mate, just depends how you look at it. For example, the Internet is one network, however it obviously has countless networks within it aswell. Even though CAN H and CAN L are physically linked, logically they are separate, so they can be classed as their own type of network, thats what I was alluding to Discussion is good though, we can learn off each other, and my plan is to totally crack open the mystery of how this cars internals work so we can do what we want to it.

If anyone needs the CVT oil, let me know because I'm importing some myself and I'll just add yours into my shipment. You have make a decision and pay by Monday at the latest as the shipment leaves soon and I don't want to miss the boat so to speak. Just PM me if you're interested and I'll tell you the rest of the details.

I go synthetic everytime, I believe they are better formulated for the engine, just my 2 cents

Hi mate, the recommended oil for all temperatures is 5W-30, but since you are in such a hot environment, you can go 10W-30 no worries. And the oil filter can be accessed underneath the car, just checkout the pic below:

Hey mate, check out Import Monster. I was just browsing around and I seen a pair of rear lights, the LED versions, for A$150 each. Just include shipping (at cost price) and Import Monsters small fee and I bet its alot cheaper than from Nissan directly

correct, i will.

I think you'll find that it only has 2 major networks, called CAN H and CAN L. One being high speed for the important things like ABS etc. and the other is low speed for power windows etc. And these two networks are linked for redundancy, allowing bcm's to be able to continue communicating if a section of the comms bus is broken.

Thanks for the apology Stephen, I believe you mean it and if what you say is true, then I must be reading your replies in the wrong light. Thats the trouble with reading and not hearing what someone says. So I apologise for my remarks to you then, have a good one.

So you think he wouldn't charge me? Then why come on here and say 'I know what the problem is..' etc. but not tell me? And as for me being rude, I think you earned it. Two times you replied in my posts and both times it was with a useless comment. My tip to you is don't post unless you have something worthwhile to add or a question. Anyway, we have both had our say, lets agree to disagree and get on with it.

Hi Pulp, thanks for trying to smooth the situation over, but Stephen knows he is being a smart as$, thats the second time he has chimed in with a useless comment to try and make me look stupid. Chris is no doubt good, but at the end of the day he is a business man and will try and make a buck, so I should expect that. But you can be sure that any new information I find out about these cars will be posted loud and proud for all to see Have a good one

Thanks for that Captain Obvious. And I bet he wants to charge me money just to do a simple 5 minute fix instead of just telling me what it is so i can fix it myself. When I discovered how to get the oxidisation off of the windows, I shared that info with everyone, not a problem. Isn't this forum about being part of a group that supports each other and shares the same interests, not a place for opportunists trying to make money anyway they can?

So don't leave me in suspense, what do you have to do to verify it?

Hi guys, I have done a search but nothing turned up in relation to NATS. A little bit of background info first. My car is a 2002 350GT-8, it has the factory immobiliser deactivated (the LED that has a 'Security' sticker under it is off) but a factory fitted alarm that is still working (I set it off to test it). It also has an Autowatch 3 point immobiliser fitted that has a little LED indicator light next to the VDC button. I was told that in order to start the car, I have to turn the key to the 'ON' position, at which point the Autowatch LED will light up continously, then when it turns off, I will be able to start the car. But the problem I've been having is the car basically has a mind of its own, sometimes it starts, sometimes it takes 2 or 3 attempts. So I took it to a Nissan workshop and got them to hook up the Consult-II tool and search the whole system for error codes. The only thing that came up was 'NATS error', which I know refers to the security system but I'm not sure what exactly. Are there any experts out there that can shed some light on this annoying problem? Thanks in advance

Hey DRIFTT, have you had a chance to analyse a broken CVT transmission yet?

I live northside so would be willing to meet you halfway on the weekend. However, before we get to that stage, lets make sure you guys are doing it right Using a dollop about the size of a 5 cent piece and a rough textured cloth, rub in an up and down motion, no swirls, using your index and middle finger with pretty much your whole weight against it. Takes about 20 seconds of rubbing in a spot about 15cm high by 3cm wide to see the results. Its not an easy thing to do, thats for sure. The user Clikar23 was successful and if you ask him, I bet he tells you his arm is sore after doing just one window, so if yours isn't then you are definitely not doing it right, haha Give that a shot and let me know how it pans out.

Hey N15M0, I'd be happy to show you in person if its convenient, let me know.

Hi Robbo05, I bought it from my local Supercheap Auto so I could get rid of the staining on the chrome parts. It worked perfectly on the chrome as I expected, but that got me thinking that maybe the staining was on the surface of the glass, not acid rain that had eaten into the glass as was suggested by some people. Me being the type that likes to experiment with things, I tried it on the glass in an inconspicuous area and was ecstatic to find that it actually works. Because I was seriously starting to consider buying replacement glass, haha. Like I said though, rub with a decent amount of pressure and concentrate on one small area at a time. Rubbing up and down works best as opposed to a swirling motion. There may be an easier way to rub it off, like with one of those electric orbital polishers, but I don't have one of those and I'm happy to just keep chipping away at it myself. Last night I also used it to clean the yellowing off my headlights, haha, seems like it polishes more than just metal If you have any other questions let me know.

Theres no need to worry about how hard you push, the Autosol compound does not eat glass. And it doesn't work 'fairly well', it works, full stop.