leeroy_25

Thanks guy's for the replies. It puts my mind at rest. I would say it is generally around 30-35 and every now and then I might get a high 30.. just hit the 40 once! Will have a look into it.. Main reason I started asking is I just found I have a compression issue on one cylinder and I am trying to figure why! It's only done 900miles, been run in gently and just had a tune to 0.8 bar and only been revved to just over 6k! I am hoping it is a duff valve but it sucked/blew some oil through the breather into the turbo inlet so its not looking promising. Cheers Lee

Hi There.. Sorry.. I should maybe elaborate on 'stock bottom' end.. standard Rb30 pistons/rods/block and RB26 head. As far as anything goes that would effect the compression all stock and OEM Nissan headgasket. Cheers Lee

I have used searched and read a load of posts with a lot of people talking compression ratios but I would like to know what the psi reading per cylinder should be for an Rb30/26 combo with a stock bottom end please. Thank you Lee

200! I didn't even realise you could get readings that high! I checked and my ECU is set to go at 40.. I just like to know these things for piece of mind. I know everyone says knock is bad but I never really know ow much is normal and how much is bad! What rpm were you running your stock bottom end too out of curiosity? Was it a self built motor?

Hi guy's can anyone say what is a sensible knock value to tune to on a stock RB30 bottom end with Rb26 head using an Apexi ECU. IIRC the Apexi triggers the warning at 40 as standard. If you are reaching mid to high 30's under load often will this kill the bottom end or is it still relatively safe? I know my old RB26 reach 40's after it was tuned and I think they reset the knock warning to much higher. Cheers Lee

Hi There, I am on a single turbo and Apexi ECU, HKS Step 1 cams and 660 sard injectors. Stock pump art present. and Stock MAF's. The print out I got from the dyno was the estimated flywheel one rather than the actual wheel power we saw on the day. Cheers for the link. Lee

Hi guy's today I finally got my Rb30/26 base tuned. It had been run in for around 700miles so was more than ready! As I had some fluffy running issues during the run in period I decided to get a base tune done with the stock pump and AFM's to make sure it was all running clean prior to swapping AFM's and more than likely the pump for my future plans. After some minor tweaks richen up the map off boost and load the running issues were all pretty sorted so we went for a couple of power runs starting at 6psi wastegate boost to give the car some initial runs up to 6500rpm. Once happy with that the boost was increase to 0.8bar and some further tweaks were made. At this point the Stock MAF's were pretty much maxed out so I called it a day but here is what I ended up with so far. I think the rpm scale is wrong so ignore that. It was revving just short of 6500rpm. The power shown is flywheel power and it equated to 324bhp at the rear wheels I was hoping for a touch more but then I had planned to run it up to 6750rpm initially then I got a bit nervous! The engine is running HKS step1 cams with adjustable pullies so I am hoping to dial the power ban back a touch to make better use of the cams when I go for the final tune. The 660cc sard injectors are happily run at about 60% duty at the moment. Whether or not I need to put a slightly larger pump in remains to be seen.. Anyone have any clues as to how much wheel power a stock gtr pump can hold on an RB30? Knock levels are max 28 at the moment but then boost is still relatively low. We tried to fiddle with the ignition timing a bit but it made no significant gains at the current boost so we left it as it was . I plan to drive it as is for a couple of weeks and make sure I am happy with it all then I will put on my larger MAF's and pump if need be and go back for a final tune taking the rpm up to 6750 limit. Maybe a little higher. I am hoping I can get into mid 500's flywheel power but not sure I will get there yet? My tuner on the other hand seems pretty confident! If anyone has any thoughts on my printout let me know. Wouldn't mind comparing with what other people have made on the same boost and similar setup?

Thanks or the info guys'' SO I assume once you have set the timing to match the hand commander then you need to alter the map accordingly.. So I guess to start with the ign map needs to read 20/21 degs in the cells that it is using for idle? Then monitor this on the commander (which should now also read 20/21??) and then set the timing to match this with the CAS? I am sure my commander reads different to what the cells in the map say currently? At idle at least. If so why/how? Thank you Lee

That's good to know Jono.. What does MBT stand for though?? I am sure it's obvious really! So if the ECU changes timing a bit at idle.. ie depending on what the map says at that load cell.. How can you check that the ECU is reading the same base setting as you gun off the crank? Or do you not? I.e do you need to calibrate the two together somehow? Only way I can think is you idle the engine and set the commander to 19-20deg advance at that load cell then set the CAS so the timing light also reads 19-20deg. Then you can tweak form there. But if idle is supposed to be set at around 20deg and my commander is set at 23 from the base map I am a little confused? i.e I set mine with the gun to read approx20deg off the crank. But the commander reads 23deg? Maybe the base go tweaked slightly around this cell? Advice on setting the base please and best idle timing setting. Thank you Lee

Thanks for the info guy's. The tunned map is a sample one I pikced up for an RB26. The base map is currently what I am running in my RB30. It has not yet been mapped fully as I am running it in on very low boost and 4500rpm max. Nearly done though. I have checked my timing at the crank and it is set to 20-21 degs. I have noticed that at idle the commander says 23degs.. But I presume that depends where on the map it is sitting? I thought the base map looked high in some places! Heopfully fine how I am running now but I would like to learn for myself before I get it mapped! Cheers Lee

Guy's have been looking at various examples of maps trying to learn a bit about the Apexi ECU tuning. I was looking at ignition maps today an had a couple of example maps .. I believe one is pretty much the factory set one and the other is a tuned one. I noticed a very large difference in the max advance and range of advance between the two maps. Can someone please explain a bit for me. I think the factory one has the high peaks values. Surely these are too high for your engine or is it okay to have these at particular loads? Or maybe these cells are never used? Just trying to gain some knowledge. Thank you Lee

Not sure on the Options of the brake boost but mine is connected as factory. Regards the metal pipe you mentioned. On my build I cut al the vac lines of and kept the main water one IIRC. I might have a picture somewhere. I will look tonight. I think there is a spout you can block and also on the RB30 block there is a little spout on the rear water pipe into the block that can be blocked. I will try and find pictures to confirm for you. Lee

Guy's just wondering what the best plugs to run in my RB30/RB26 conversio are. Not going for mega power. Around 500-600 flywheel hopefully. I ran NGK Iridiums in my old RB26 can I run the same in this and what heat rating is best to go for? I have BKR8EIX Iridium IX currently. Cheers Lee

Guy's I recently created a webpage and have been putting up my project information for my Current RB30 build. It is slowly getting up-to-date and I am adding more every couple of days. Please take a look here: Red Sun Power Projects If you like it you can post here with replies and questions or leave a comment on the site. I have not tried but you should be able to get e-mailed from the site whenever I update it if you sign-up to it! There is also some previous project details on there if anyone is interested! Hope you guy's like the build and pics. Cheers Lee

Hi Guy's I am putting some Q45 MAF's on my car and have found a diagram for the Q45 MAF's but I cannot seem to find one for the RB26 ones?? Can someone please give me a breakdown of wire colour verses function for and R33 GTR MAF. If a diagram is available even better. Even if you have fitted Z32 maybe you can tell me what colours went to each wire between the RB26 and Z32 plug then maybe I can work it out from there! Thank you Lee

I borrow an inline type timing light to check the timing again and it was spot on.. So that puts my mind at rest. SO I fitted spacers under the bonnet to lift the back and it has helped a lot. Much better after a drive up the road.. Still some fumes and a funny smell but I think/hope it is the crap burning of the new turbo beanie which I only just fitted. So I will keep a close eye. The heatshielding I put between the ABS unit and downpipe seems to work well also, just got to check heat is not getting through lower down the bulkhead where it all gets a bit close near where the A/C drain comes out. It has been melted once but now has shielding there too so as long as that is okay I think I am sorted. Cheers Lee

Titan, That is pretty much exactly what I have done now! Guilt-toy.The tuner who is doing it is a rotary specialist who did my RX7 and does all other jap makes too. He did a brilliant job on my rotary. I am just being extra careful and possiby paranoid about the timing and fueling where it is set now as I know the lights can get a dodgy signal using the inductive pickup off the harness. I am getting an inline timing light to check it tomorrow and put my mind at rest one way or another. I will go from there re the tune. I do not have datalogit unfortunately so a remote tune is not an option. I am sure once I get a proper map done it wil be great. I just want to have the basics set up so I can drive it for MOT with a clear head and no worries! Cheers Lee

Thanks for the replies guy's Al, That is a possible solutoin I could either customise my stock one or maybe do a custom bonnet complete. Will see what comes up! Sorry for the double post. Was not sure where this was best placed. Thank you Lee

Hey there Buddy, Well tune wise it is basically on the RB26 base map.. I went on the dyno and they put the injector settings in at correct size (I had used compensation values) and it seemed to pull up okay Air/fuel mix without fuel adjusting? This is on no and low load only as I was only bedding it in? Does the Apexi self learn to a certain extent? I am trying to get a copy of the datalog file to check some figures and can post a copy for people to look at in case something is not right? I am tempted to put my compensation values back in even if it does make it sightly rich but then if the Apexi will self correct slightly then it shouldn't cause a problem. I pulled the plugs after the some miles on the dyno and personally I thought the tips looked like they had been running hot? Althought down in the plug was dark the very tip was very pale coffee colour. AFR's were around 14 and dropping to 12 up the revs around 3500rpm I think. What are your thoughts on Ignition timing? The light I set it on shows 20deg and the cam angle sensor is adusted slight of centre on the bolt holes. So the slot has less room to retard it. The other light I tried showed it at 35deg advance at the same point. But then there is not enough adjustment to get the timing back correct with this light? So I set it with the first light as the engine starts fine and sounds fine... keys over fine. I am thinking if it was 35degs advance it would be a bitch to turnover? and fire very quick on the key? I could be worrying too much but I sure as hell don't want to risk my rebuild! In only have the picture below so far showing some of the engine bay. I have now got a turbo beanie fitted and heat reflective mat down the bulkhead and covering the wires and ABS unit in the corner. The turret has heat reflective tape on and all the pipes and wires along the chassis rails have heat shield sleeves on too. I had accounted for most of this but I wasnt expecting the heat to travel as much as it does! So far the only thing that has been damaged is some pipe clips and the A/C drain pipe and bottom of the A/C unit! Problem I see is that all the heat is getting reflected and confined in a very small space and without a vent in the hood there is nowhere for it to escape. Maybe that is the cause of the problem right there? But I don't see all single top mount guys running vents and propped up bonnets? Just want to be sure I have it right and normal! Cheers Lee

Guy's I seem to have an issue with my RB30/RB26 conversion and rather high temps under the bonnet. I have a top mount single turbo conversion and the down pipe runs close to the bulkhead. I have it heat wrapped down to the decat pipe but it still seems to get dam hot. Hot enough to melt the clips on the brake pipe and start melting the wiring up by the ABS on the dyno when I did some run in miles! To be fair the fan tripped out on the dyno which probably didn't help. I then go a turbo beanie and some heat refelctive wrap aroud the pipes and wiring and went for a 1 mile drive no real load when I got back the area around the turbo and downpipe was very hot and I am just a bit worried that it is hotter than it should be? I guess lean fuel or over advanced igntion are the only real possibles here? I know water temp doesn't seem to get that hot that quick if that give any clues? Water temp was ony just start to get up to temp after my drive. I am going to try and richen the mix and bit and get another timing light to check timing as two different lights so far show two very different timings?! Is the sensor from the CAT (now in the decat pipe) and EGT sensor? If so can I read it from the Apexi hand commander and roughly what temp should I be seeing that far down the system? Any thoughts on tis or people with similar problems to put my mind at rest please? Cheers Lee

Guy's dones anyone know if fitting a vented bonnet like the Top Secret or Jun style ones will be a problem with an RB30 conversion? Just had the thought as I know the bonnet it quite tight on the timing belt cover with the stock bonnet and these drop down in the middle where the main centre venting is? Help please! If some can reccommend a suitable bonnet to run with the RB30 if these are no good that would be great as I have some serious underbonnet temp issues wth the downpipe and top mount all in a very small enclosed space! Cheers Lee

Guy's dones anyone know if fitting a vented bonnet like the Top Secret or Jun style ones will be a problem with an RB30 conversion? Just had the thought as I know the bonnet it quite tight on the timing belt cover with the stock bonnet and these drop down in the middle where the main centre venting is? Help please! If some can reccommend a suitable bonnet to run with the RB30 if these are no good that would be great as I have some serious underbonnet temp issues wth the downpipe and top mount all in a very small enclosed space! Cheers Lee

waxracing... Are you talking 400rwhp? Gross power that would be easy. A stock RB26 an make that on 1bar. I want to top 500 flywheel and really over 550 if possible but I guess I will just have to wait and see. I want to use as little boost as required.

Thanks for the advise guys. I was thinking 6750rpm and 1.2bar boost so I was not a million miles out! I would be interested to push the treated rods but not just yet!! Cheers Lee

Just running in my stock RB26/30 combo at the mo and starting to get some plans and things together ready for the full map and dyno run. Can people who have built and/or are running an RB25/30 or RB26/30 using the stock RB30 bottom end internals let me know what boost you are running and what rpm you set your limit to to have a safe, lasting engine? It will be road use 95% probably if that makes any difference. I have read a few opinions just would like some hard facts. Maybe let me know how long you have had your engine running for as well. Cheers Lee