itsme

Hey Dan, firstly yes it's definitely ok to bust out a stogie on the odd occasion. Heck, inhale a little if you wanna real be ballin' with it. Secondly, I sent you monies and PM'd you about some LED's but haven't had a reply are you about at all big fella? thanks mate.

Yesterday bonnet was up, today it was down so maybe it's already been partially stripped =(

Hi all, I drove down Jones St in Balcatta this morning and wasn't paying much attention but there was a silver R33 with GTR badges, wasn't looking hard enough to see if it looked genuine (guards etc). Car has a 'Vehicle has been reported' Sticker on the window but I also noticed an SAU WA sticker on the rear quarter window. Didn't see any threads about one being missing or stolen but I find this really odd. Hopefully somebody knows who's it is before it gets trashed or something. cheers, Steven Chase

Sigh.. How about don't race, regardless of the road being private and especially when noting you 'both can't drive for shit'. The genius of making your car faster so you can beat commodores just spells disaster, one would safely assume that you aren't going to always be going up against them on 'private' roads and you've also mentioned there is video footage to measure the 0-100 time. The media is just lurking for any opportunity to pin something on import car owners and people going around racing certainly won't help our image. Do quarter mile times on a track somewhere with the appropriate safety measures in place and without breaking the law or looking like ye' average commodore driver who feels a need to prove themselves at every red light. =)

Yeh really good job fellas, was an awesome day, nice cars and really well organised =)

^Waste of time... haha that's great... Good pun is good =P

Double post sigh

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Hey bud, I've got a D5000 (earlier model which isn't as good as yours) I've been doing photography about 6 months on a pretty continued basis. Best tip I can give is take your camera with you everywhere, the more often you shoot the better you will get with your camera and its settings. I'd recommend investing in a decent tripod as this will be useful for any car photography as well as anything being shot in poor lighting conditions. Filters are useful depending on application but I would recommend you invest in AT LEAST a UV filter for ALL your lenses.. it's much easier to clean a filter or even replace it than it is to replace a whole lense if you scratch it etc. Further to all this what Matt has written above is spot-on. You want to read and practice all the time, there is plenty of info online for you and there are magazines in newsagents etc, if you intend on focusing on car photography read up on it. I'll also add, if you're starting out don't get too down when you take shots and they don't look as good as magazines/websites etc. You will find these days ALOT of the shots you see are not taken straight from the camera, they are often touched up in photoshop and you can turn an average looking photo into a good one with little work so try make yourself familiar with photoshop if your not. Sometimes just reducing the image size, cropping out unecessary parts and sharpening it up can make all the difference. Feel free to PM me with any questions and if I can't answer I'll ask my mate who does photography professionally (if you know anybody else who does photography ask questions and advice, deviantart.com is also a good photo-sharing place and some of the members are happy to help) Cheers, Steve

I'm excited to see your new beast Eps, although I'm sad that you sold the Ceffy.. I thought i saw it parked on Mirrabooka Ave not too long ago and was going to leave a smudge mark with my willy.. then realised it was no longer yours and thought it might result in me getting bottled/glassed/stabbed. I've had the fuschia Works on it for about 6 months now so they have minor amounts of gutter rash (due to stretched tired providing no protection) and some clown thought it would be funny to kick/throw something at my bonnet so there is an upsetting dent.. But I'll be coming with along with a mate who has a WRX RA, a 180.. and a few others.. should be awesome. btw; I'm not joking about copping abuse for the pink rims, I just tell everybody it was your idea. After showing how good black and fuschia lingerie looks how could I NOT do it.. Plus I didn't wanna be half-steppin

Hi Chloe, Do you know what the turbo timer is? (greddy, apexi etc) I'd recommend posting those details up here first, depending on how bad it's been disconnected one of the dudes on here may even be able to do it for you. (ie: might just be one wire) Alternatively call up a few of the workshops and explain you have a '_____ turbo timer that has been disconnected on an R34, how much to install it/fix it then work out based on price and reputation of the workshop where to go. In the meantime don't worry too much. The manufacturers don't make the cars with turbo timers so it's not necessarily vital, just drive your car easy for the last leg before your destination (ie; dont thrash it to your driveway then switch it straight off) or alternatively just sit with the car on for a minute before switching off =) -Steve

Oi Rowan!! If I bring down the Skyline with the Fuschia Rims (as per your instructions) Can you please guarantee that; A) I will not be attacked and called a homo like I do when pulling up at intersections in Mirrabooka and Balga B) Cops will not block the exits from the carpark and hand out yellow stickers because they generally have nothing better to be doing than hassling car enthusiasts? <3 you. (no homo)

Hey matey, I've also been looking high and low to find an O2 sensor for my R34 GTT. I rang Nissan today and they want $275 for one!! I'm at a loss as to why this is so expensive compared to the 32's and 33's. I'm also wanting to know if the EL Ford sensor fits and if there is any adverse affect in using one. I'll keep searching and let you know if I find anything, can you please let me know how you go as well mate as this just seems far too pricey!! Cheers bud, Steve

Hey all, (mainly Bubba due to being so helpful =P) I've been advised of the following; The wiring plugs for both AFM and injectors are not a plug in adapter on each end. They are a wiring plug kit. This means they plug onto the injectors/AFM but need to be wired back into the loom. The injectors are a 6 orifice wide split cone, high impedance injector Bosch EV14 52lb – 550cc · Set of 6 $450 + $60 for wiring plug kits (new plugs as supplied will need to be wired into your injector loom ) Bosch Z32 300ZX Airflow meter · $265 Plug kit available as pictured below for $36 extra. Freight on both items will be $18. The pricing seems reasonable, I don't know if 6 orifice wide open split cone is good? From reading through other forums it appears these have received good feedback. In related forums I've found people with these 550CC injectors with power outputs of 450+hp which is above my aim of 350hp so this all looks the goods. Is wiring of the AFM and injectors to the loom difficult or is it something most tuners can do during install? What are your thoughts on the above in terms of quality and pricing? Thanks again for all your help! -Steve

Uh huh, makes sense - Cheers mate. Will I be able to retain my factory BOV or will I need to upgrade that as well (trying to get an idea on total cost here =/) I just found these injectors, although I generally avoid cheap ebay things these look ok and feeback is high; http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370500877454 Cheers for the diff info, will begin looking at 1.5's now =) Btw, not sure where you are located but there is a reasonable chance you know my car.. Black 34 Sedan with Fuschia Pink rims, hard to miss. Plus I cop HEAPS of sh*t for them, I blame Mr Eps he talked me into it. =P

Cheers heaps Bubba, I've already sent an email to Grant and he's noted he could do it for a pretty reasonable price so I'm considering getting it highflowed by him. I hadn't considered the intake pipe, are these normally custom made or do you purchase them for direct bolt-on? Also forgot about the Z32, cheers for reminding me Any idea where to best source these injectors? Do Siemens make direct-fit R34 Injectors? I've got a Power FC with Hand Controller so the tuning side should be ok. I only went for the iridium because I was told they lasted longer, and with the R34 intake manifold being retarded and going across the top of the engine I didn't want to be having to change them too frequently, but it's good to know there's not much difference in the instance I ever do change the intake manifold =) I'll do some reading on the difference between a 2-way and1.5 as I'm currently quite clueless. Do you recommend any specific brand or is it all very much the same thing? thanks again to everybody who's helped out.

Sorry to sound naive but will a 3076r bolt up to the stock position? Also I was concerned if I went for a 3076 I'm going to get a fair bit of lag, any tips on where I should look for both the injectors and turbo? R34 NEO injectors seem to be a little harder to source than RB25DET non-neo engine due to the neo ones being top feed and all the rest side feed (I think I got this right way around). I've got 18x9+30 work emotion xd9s all round with some good rubber around them so hopefully that will be ok, as per my post above to jimmy I thought a 2-way would make it hard to drive as a daily? Again, seeking any advice on brands and best priced places to get the turbo, injectors and now after being talked into it possibly a 2-way =) thanks bud.

I hadn't looked at a 2 way diff, is this going to make my car a pig to drive as a daily though? Recommend any specific brands or places to get them from? I'd love to get a full 4-door origin kit but don't have the $$$ right at the minute so I want to do a bit more to the engine first, that may come later Forgot to mention I have 18x9+30 Work Emotion XD9's on it (running spacers at the back) Again, would love recaros but would rather put the money toward the engine at this point. Thanks for your advice Jimmy =)

Hi fellow SAU crew! I've been tossing up for ages now whether to sell my baby and go on holidays or bite the bullet and finish her off, I'm thinking I'll finish it but I've spent ages looking around and not had much luck. I'm looking to retain a relatively stock/stealth look in the engine bay and I feel/think all I have left to do is turbo and injectors. So, I'm looking to retain factory turbo position via either high-flowing my stock turbo or getting a direct bolt-on and direct fit injectors if possible. Would like to retain responsiveness as car is daily driver, any and all help will be greatly appreciated, looking for both advice on brands, and where possible the best place to get them from. I've contacted a few places on high-flowing which appears to be a cheap option and retains a factory position, on injectors I don't know about what brands are good, have come across Denso, Daetschwerks, Sard, Blitz etc and don't know what size I should be looking for. I'm aiming for a power output around the 350rwhp mark, currently sitting at 266rwhp. Currently my set-up is as follows, if there is anything else you think would help or that I may need please let me know; Engine/Drivetrain; Stock internals, stock turbo. Blitz turn-flow front mount intercooler Turbo back exhaust system with Hi-flow CAT Splitfire Coilpacks Iridium Spark Plugs Cooling Pro Alloy Radiator Walbro 255lph in-tank fuel pump Pod filter Exedy Heavy Duty Clutch Extreme Lightened Flywheel Nismo short-shifter Interior Greddy Profec B Spec II boost controller (Low 7psi High 11psi) Apexi PowerFC with Hand controller Red & White LED’s for dash cluster/interior Custom 3 gauge install above centre console Nismo black Titanium gearknob Handling BC Racing BR Coilovers Whiteline Racing extra heavy duty front and rear sway bars JJR front castor arms thanks in advance, Steve

No but I'm lolling coz it's mirrabooka and I live there.. many a strange things happy there.. unspeakable things.. lol

Scarborough beach has now become a local african village so potentially better you didn't head down there. Few nights ago they had a tribal war down there, was really out of control. (this isn't a lie I was there for serious) I was there last night and a bunch of them were doing the Macarena.. THE MUTHAFURKING MACARENA... i mean.. jesus.. k thx

I have a friend with a gold tooth

Hey Lads, I might make an appearance although my new rims may not be on =( See how I go

Every day bro, usually at 7am is the best because it's nice and cool and you might be able to slip the tuner cash before the boss comes in so it will be cheaper. No but in all seriousness, if you don't plan on modifying the car then I would generally say.. Never, for example I have an R34 GTT which was stock for about a year.. Then I upgraded the ecu to an Apexi PFC, intercooler, coilpacks,zorst, upped the stock boost, this required a tune which I have now been driving on for about 3 months. Basically I would only expect to need another tune if; A - Something went wrong B - I decided to upgrade something else (injectors, bigger turbo etc) C - I decided that the first tune was pussy and I could of stressed the engine another 10hp (which I wouldn't do as I like my safe tune) Hope this helps, I suppose the other thing to note is if you buy a car which already has an aftermarket ecu then the only thing you would need to question is who tuned it and how good was the tune, and also has anything happened between the last tune and you buying the car. Cheers, Steve

Umm.. How about a Skyline! Hehe.. In terms of maintenance costs etc I would imagine the s15 would be the cheaper option, keep in mind an rx7 is a rotary engine and the 'rule' I've heard is that due to them spinning at higher revs than a conventional engine they are more likely to require more attention more frequently. In terms of look, well I think rx7 FD's are pretty damn hot - a set of rims and an exhaust and you got yourself a beast. S15's are more or less the same in my opinion, set of rims, exhaust and lowered and they are a nice neat looking sports car. Due to owning a Skyline, and this being posted on SAU forums Nissan may be favoured a little what's the price difference between the two cars? I'd be basing it more so on the age of each car, the condition, the price, the km's etc and try forecast costs a year forward (even roughly) ie: If one car is at 99,000km and the other is at 70,000km what is the 100,000km service cost going to be like. Call a few rotary specialists workshops and try and find info on RX7's like general service costs, how difficult/expensive to find and replace parts and maybe even go as far as comparing insurance costs between the two. Either way mate all the best and hopefully your friend ends up with the best car of the two =) cheers, Steve