itsme

Thanks for all the replies fellas.. Rowan you had me and my mate crying with laughter.. f**king legend.. So due to loving (trying) DIY jobs.. I've done one rim Satin Black and it looks good, tires have just come over from tempe so I'll probably do all 4 black chuck the tires on and see how they look and if I don't like the black then I'll be taking them to get them powdercoated pink and I'm not talking some gay fluro or light baby pink.. my 'sponsor' is JD4D (JesusDied4Dubstep) so the pink is like this http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc...5_1300004_n.jpg Also have some new Workemotion glow-in the dark stickers, made sure I could get these before painfully scraping off the old ones that were still on the rims in perfect condition =( Offsets btw are 18x9+30 all round with 225/40 for front and 235/40 back So gonna finish the black off get em on the car and see how she looks, if she's boring in black then pink it shall be, any idea how hard it would be to ensure the color will be the same as the logo I have little to no knowledge on powdercoating other than the time I was 12 and couldn't afford a Haro BMX bike and settled for a k-mart special 'Malvern Star' and I was so embarrassed I tried to get it powdercoated chrome and couldnt afford it so I painted it chrome myself and the paint rubbed off to a dull silver.. it felt like I was growing up in the great depression. But seriously Rowan.. f**king lolz dude gotta catch up again so I can 'appreciate' your car like you did mine.. and it wasn't a splodge you tore a whole in my bumper.. -itsme

Howdy all, Recently acquired a set of Work Emotion XD9's for my black R34 4 dr.. They are silver and one of them has had gutter-rash repaired by Alliance but it has not yet been painted. Tossing up my options and I'm pretty decided that Satin Black might be the way to go, looking to have a crack at painting them myself using the guides both on here and in other forums. I may be getting a 'sponsor' of sorts who's color scheme is pink and black so was 'considering' either satin black rims with pink calipers and lugs OR pink rims with black lugs and calipers. *puts flame suit on* Any opinions (preferably constructive but I've already copped it heaps when telling my mates I may put pink rims on my black 4dr so I understand) Also if anybody can share opinions on professional spray-painting/powdercoating experiences/places/prices would be appreciated preferably NOR. PS: I love THE pink, and the color isn't that bad - no homo

Yeah I lost it turning from Cedric onto Karrinyup, didn't help that I had a skidpan day last week and forgot to let the tyre pressure back down. Felt like I was driving on Ice-skates, finally time for some new good quality tyres and getting rid of the compliance tyres yes.. i've had them on for almost a year.. should be good going from 17's with compliance tyres to 18 inch works with some decent rubber on them =)

I've seen 2dr ganadors fitted to a 4dr and they look really stupid and the angle is completely wrong. Julz - No I haven't I'll have a search around now but I've not had much luck with aftermarket side-view mirrors.. it's by no means vital was just having a look.. might just spend that money on injectors or something useful. thanks guys and if you do find any aftermarket 4dr mirrors please post brand or links? ta

Hi All, I've been searching a few bit through these forums and on google etc etc.. Chasing some genuine ganadors for my R34 GTT Sedan but not having any luck. rhdjapan and nengun seem to only have them for a 2dr and it specifies this. From what I've read it's something to do with the frame around the mirror is different between a 2dr and 4dr?? Does any one know where to get them for a 4dr or have you heard of them being available? Any advice or links appreciated (even pics of a 4dr with ganadors or similar is appreciated to see if I wanna continue the effort of searching for some) ta, Steve

Hi Bud, I've got an R34 Sedan, can't say I've ever tried to fit 3 kids in the back though. I've once had a full car of adults and the back is quite squishy for what appears to be a large/long car from the outside. Depending on how tall the driver and passenger are I think you would be fine fitting in three kids in the back seats. The two back seats on the sides are kind-of bucket seats whereas the middle seat is uncomfortable as it is raised. Your best bet may be to find an R34 sedan and just check out the back seats yourself to be sure it's what you need. PM me if I can be of any further help or if you got any questions I could answer cheers, Steve

Awesome.. good to know as I was unsure about this, thanks heaps really appreciate it man... the 215/40 would have a slightly lower profile is that right?? (Sidewall 86mm high as opposed to 90mm high on the 225/40's?) but would be more stretched?? (been trying to research as much as possible before asking dumb questions) Now I just need to work out which wheels to go with.. looking for best performance and value for money car is mainly street driven and is currently 200rwkw but I'm hoping to take it up to 230-260rwkw.. So far it appears Toyo's or Federals are the go.. and Michelin Pilot PS2's are the best but they look insanely pricey thanks again mate

Hi All, I've read through this entire thread so I apologise in advance if I shouldn't ask this here (please direct me to the right spot) I've come across some Works XD9's which are 18x9 +30 all round without tires. From everything I've read it seems these should fit fine on my R34 Sedan and will probably stick out about 5mm on the front? Anybody able to help with this?? Also they don't have tires, what's my best bet in terms of nice fitment?? (or is it best I just take the car to a tyre shop somewhere, I'm in Perth btw) They are currently bronze but after seeing Blaqs I'm very tempted to go black also coz once you go black... =P thanks in advance lads

Hey bud, I'm running the BC Racing BR Coilies on my R34 Sedan and couldn't be happier the build quality looked good, the price was good and they have 'local support'. The ones I have include the 32 step dampening adjustment which is a little overkill but hey any fine adjustment is good I guess. I found them a little bit soft on cornering but recently got front and rear adjustable whitelines swaybars as well as justjap castor arms and this has improved the handling a fair bit. cheers

Hrrm, do you know what else has been done to the car? I'd be worried that the guy before you didn't have an idea of what he was doing so who knows if he has dodgied up other parts aside from the fuel pump. If he has changed to a larger intercooler and airflow meter is the car running an aftermarket ecu? Does it have a boost controller? Has the exhaust been upgraded from the turbo back? How many km's has she done? Normally cutting out problems on 34's are associated with the coilpacks, it's a common problem that the stock ones die after a while and this was the first problem I had with my 34. Upgraded to Splitfires and it was solved but my car was completely stock at the time. Try and post more info and if you can answer the above questions, I'm by no means a pro I'm learning as well but it will be easier for everybody to help you if you give a little more info. Hopefully one of the dudes on here can help you out, good luck.

Hi!

Hey mate, Yeh getting behind the cluster is a pain in the ass. I've managed to get the cluster out once and the second time I struggled so I just squeezed my hand through. I would recommend checking out Dan's threads on LED lights as he or somebody else in that thread should be able to assist you and worst case scenario Dan sells good quality LEDS at pretty good prices. You seem to already know how it all works in regard to them only working 1 way (the 180 flip you mentioned) and the only thing I was going to recommend was splaying the wires in case they arent correctly touching the terminals which would explain why they blink on and off. I've had one of my LEDs in my dash stop working and tried turning it both ways with no luck, I had a spare which I put in and it worked perfectly. Maybe try re-arranging a working one with a non-working one just to confirm its definitely the LED itself and not another fault. Good luck mate

Neil, you're a legend mate thanks for replying was running out of places to try ask for help. Have the wheels level.. thanks for that, hopefully I can borrow my mates good jack (I've sadly only got a scissor jack) I'm not mechanically retarded just learning still so hopefully once I get it jacked up it should come down to logic but cheers for the tips like measuring the castor arms to the stockers it's simple things like this I may not of thought of. I'll give it all a go this weekend and see how it pans out. I looked at cancelling the HICAS and camber arms etc but it's my daily and I'm trying to get the best medium between handling and comfort but if it makes the handling as awesome as you've mentioned perhaps I'll need to fork out more $$$.. The fun of modding cars thanks again.

Hey guys, Further to this initial post (which received no responses). I have just called a well-known place in Perth who have quoted me $580 to fit the swaybars, castor arms and adjust/align. This seems a little excessive, I was also told this is because it is about 4 hours work. It's very possible I'm missing something here due to lack of knowledge but I would expect it to take 4 hours if i did it alone on my driveway with bricks, a jack and some stands. Does it really take a workshop who specialises in suspension 4 hours (on a hoist mind you) to unbolt swaybars, bolt whitelines back on smash in some castor rods and do all the adjusting??? If anybody could please help I'm pretty stuck as to what to do and was hoping to get some response to my first post above. thanks again

Hey bud, I'd be disappointed with that figure. I'm running the stock turbo at 12psi on my R34 with stock injectors and getting 265rwhp. If I upgraded to a high-flow I would definitely be hoping for more than the stock.. Hope you work out what it is. Ps.. sorry to point this out but is your surname 'Maingay'? and first name Aaron.. making you A. Maingay? Once again, sorry to point it out but I lol'd

A while back I was speeding on the Kwinana by maybe 10km over at most and I had a dude pull up next to me in an old statesman (i think thats what it was). He wound down his window flipped out his badge (this is at 100km+) and yelled out to me "F*cking pull you're head in mate or I'll take you in" so I slowed to the speed limit and was somewhat confused. This d*ck then took off well over 100km/h into the distance. Nothing ever came of it but it would appear it's just a power-tripping thing. I still firmly believe my 10km/h over (which admittedly is still wrong) is still safer than somebody taking their eyes off the road to flash their badge at me, threaten me and speed off at over 100km/h.. Out of curiosity was he a seedy, grumpy looking old dude with facial hair (maybe its the same freak driving around being a jerk) I wouldn't worry too much bud seems like you did the right thing.

Hi all, As topic states I've picked myself up front and rear adjustable whiteline swaybars. Was going to have a crack at installing them myself over the weekend with my scissor jack, jack stands and a days work (I hope). I have very little knowledge of what is involved to put them on, was more or less going to jack the car up take a look and tackle it logically. Is there anything I need to know beforehand or is it pretty much a take-off the old and bolt-on the new? Any tips, advice or pointers from people who have done it would be appreciated. I put my coilovers in by myself and enjoy learning so that's why I was gonna give this a go then when my adjustable castor arms arrive I was gonna take it to a suspension place to get them installed and the suspension correctly tuned/wheels aligned. thanks in advance lads, Steve

wow.. that is absolutely disgusting.. i vomitted a little.. It appears that GTR got infected with gangrene or something similar.. definitely take them out and burn them.. perhaps even offer the previous owner as a sacrifice to the gods as the car may carry some kind of curse.. but yeh, wreckers, forums in wanted to buy section etc etc..

I'm in Perth mate.. umm from memory when I took out the stock speakers in my r34 they werent anything special so I'm not sure how much more power they can handle.. you could connect just the front or just the back technically this is 2-Channel (I believe).. I suppose you MIGHT be able to put left back and front together to left on the amp and right front and back together and do the same.. Don't know how effective this would be and you would lose the features of the deck and being able to tune it properly, fade it from front to rear speaker etc. Umm.. Yeh you could probably do it yourself.. I taught myself, its frustrating but rewarding if it works out.. The biggest thing for you would be deciding where to put the amp.. In the car might be easier but I dont like the idea of an amp on my floor in the car or under the seat.. So my amps are in my boot which means I had to run wires from (in my case) Cable from the battery through the firewall under the carpet and the back seat and into the boot. Cable from the deck to the boot and cable from the boot to the front doors... Oh an another tip, get decent quality wires don't get budget stuff it will cause you more headaches. Also try and run the speaker/amp wires down the OPPOSITE side of the car to your power cable. Generally speaking audio cabling is shielded but I found in my old car I used to get buzzing because I had wired them on the same side due to lazyness Lulz.. Any questions man ask away, like I said I'm far from an expert but I've received compliments on the sound of my system and I enjoy it which is the main thing. -Steve

I'm surprised you could effectively run a sub off a 2 channel amp with that sort of output. Depending on what sort of speakers you have in the car I would generally recommend wiring the amp to the front speakers. My setup just runs a 4 channel Alpine amp bridged to 2 channels and only powering a good pair of front speakers with crossovers and tweeters then I have a monoblock running 2 x 12 alpine's in the boot and the sound is near perfect, not sure about how it sounds in the back of the car but had no complaints so far and considering its my car and im usually the one driving it I figure it needs to sound best for me.. Big thing to think about is if you are running the front or front and rear just off the deck they are probably getting a feed of 50W max so if they are decent speakers they are probably massively underpowered and could sound a lot clearer and nicer and be able to handle alot higher volume off an amp. A good test if you dont wanna run all the cable and shit through the car is just wire it 'outside' the car and see if you're happy with the output then go ahead with it. Need advice or a hand mate gimme a yell, not an audio expert but wired all my cars myself and I got a 34gtt also. cheers, Steve

Hey all, so when my car came over from japan it had some nice rims on it but the rear offset is obviously wrong so it has to run spacers. I'm taking the car out for a track day on the 14th of Oct and would prefer the bolts wound all the way down on the lug. I was looking at getting extended lugs and doing this myself but don't know where to get them from or which length I would need. Had a few people tell me to take it to a few different places over Perth and they should be able to do it for me and replace all my wheel nuts at the same time (currently they are f*cked.. different sizes, rounded, rusty etc). However, after calling several places this morning nobody has been able to help and one guy even gave me a huge lecture about how it's illegal blah blah and he would sell me new rims and tyres that are right for the car but he won't assist in doing anything illegal.. Does anybody know anybody in Perth that I could drop my car in, they change the lugs put on new nuts and I pick it up all good or am i dreaming? Alternatively if anybody knows where to source extended lugs from and what length I might need I'd appreciate it (is it hard to do this myself?) cheers, Steve

I removed the pop-up screen in mine and just ordered the triple gauge cluster through Nissan for about $100 then chucked my own nice gauges in there.. Sorry for lack of pics but a few people have done this looks much better and very useful clips straight in and looks stock. cheers

Hey mate, I assume you mean boost gauge.. anyways I had black/orange/white and didnt bother with the white on my 3 gauges and they look and work fine.. the white is just to dim the amount of light to make it less 'glarey' at night.. i like the bright easy to read gauges so i didnt bother. black is negative or ground so either twist it/crimp it/solder it to an existing negative point (you didnt mention where you are mounting the gauge(s) so I have no idea what's close by) assuming you are mounting them close to the centre if you pull the deck forward there will be plenty of wires there to jump off. Get yourself a multimeter they are extremely handy for this sort of stuff. Basically you want a switched power supply for positive (only turns on when you turn the car to accessory or on.) So in summary there are many places you can wire it to, negative/ground just needs to go to existing negative point (such as deck, ciggie lighter etc etc) alternatively you can find a bolt hole which goes through metal of the car, sand back any paint etc to bare metal and use as a grounding point. Use a multimeter to measure out where you have a switched power supply - should read 12V or thereabouts when on accesory and go to 0 when the car is off. Hope this helps.

Haha yeh i know.. I mean handling is important and shouldnt be neglected but GIVE ME MORE POWER ROAR!! haha cheers mate i'll give that a crack.. um.. i wouldnt say too low.. low enough that it looks nice but still rides good.. funny thing is i just installed the suspension and it seemed to already be at a good height so i didnt adjust the height at all only played with the dampeners..

Hrrm.. seems odd is all I'd just like the car to feel a little stiffer all round.. Yeah I don't like my chances in this regard, I looked around for months before going with the BC racing option and installing myself for that reason exactly. Even places I was recommended to go to pretty much disregarded the use of coilovers and told me to get good suspension i'd be looking upward of $4k.. I'm not by any means a cheapo and have tried to keep my car with the best parts my wallet will allow but there was no way I could dish out $4k on suspension. I suppose all I can do is keep looking for a good suspension place and hope they're honest =/