itsme

Sweet Jesus.. how has nobody bought this yet.. by far the cheapest PFC + handcontroller i've seen good luck with the sale buddy.. (I thought i got a good price at $1400) =/

He's obviously racist against 'green' people.. maybe it was due to the GFC and the prices have since halved.. OR.. LIES!!

This is gonna be farkin awesome!! I get to meet Rowan the veteran (please see Eps signature).. Due to this being my first cruise I gather meet points aren't release til the last minute to prevent douchebags rocking up?? Any idea on what time or where the first meet will be or where/when this info will be posted.. I'm amazingly excited, might even borrow my mates SLR and pretend I know how to use it..

I got BC Racing BR coilovers in my r34 and I'm happy with them, good price and nice median between comfort and handling (not too harsh but not bouncy either) cheers, Steve

Hey lads, I've had my baby for a year and haven't met any of you or taken her out on a cruise yet so I'm keen to attend. Black R34 GTT Sedan. Just wondering is it likely to be south or north of the river (I live north and pretty cbf driving south much) cheers, look forward to seeing some beasts. -Steve

I installed a Blitz Turn-flow in my 34 last week, minimal knowledge did it myself at home and I'm very happy with it would recommend also.

Factory manual are hard to come by mate. I have an R34 Manual 4door but it was converted from auto, it's fairly common for the auto's to be converted and often they use r33 gearboxes. I've had no problem with my converted one at all and the only indication mine was an auto is the dash cluster still has the auto display down the middle. (cbf paying $500+ just for a different cluster) Only thing to be wary of if its converted is if they use an r33 gearbox it will require a different clutch than an r34 gearbox (one is push-type the other is pull-type). Advantage of this is a clutch for an r33 gearbox is cheaper than an r34. (I know because I saved 200-300 dollars upon discovering I needed an r33 clutch not r34). Converted ones will/should be cheaper than a factory manual one just check if the conversion has been done properly (does it drive right) how does the clutch feel where/when was the conversion done etc, what gearbox was used, how old was the gearbox etc etc.. Hope this helps cheers

f**kING LOL @ this thread.. Collen you're a legend mate, innocentdemon nice trolling mate.. cheers for giving everybody a good laugh. Ban and close thread? k thx bye

haha well you fooled me bud, I won't lie - I based the assumption of you being a vet on your post count and generally just seeing you whoring your way from post to post, often with hilarious things to say. - keep up the good work and that's bullshit - 3 compliments in a week! I'm lucky to get 1... i need to start whoring more =) plus i gave you extra points for having a ceffy.. they were my dream car from about 15-20 then at 21 i decided to get an r34 gtt sedan.. love my car.. but whenever i see a ceffy i wonder if i made the right choice.

^ what he said Rowans a veteran in the game and his advice sounds good and makes perfect sense =) I wouldnt even bother looking at the cheapo brands mate.. if cash is really tight you could look at the cooling pro turn-flow ones on Justjap - not sure of the quality etc compared to the likes of Blitz but they are cheaper and at least you would have somebody in Australia to go back to if anything were wrong. ebay - something is wrong and you're pretty much screwed and end up having to fork out as per Rowans post.

No worries mate, I'm still learning heaps so I try help where I can coz i know how hard it can be to get answers sometimes. Umm.. I just had a quick look at the specs, I'm pretty sure the one i got is Core Size - 620 x 266 x 76mm they have them on the justjap website but they are out of stock at the moment. I got mine elsewhere just PM if you would like to know mate. Another thing to make mention of is why are you looking to upgrade the cooler? What mods do have have currently or do you plan to do, I found its not really necessary until you start upping boost etc as it is considered a 'supporting mod'. Alot of poor misinformed folks are disappointed when they don't see hp gains etc because they dont investigate its purpose. I initially was going to install one for the 'wank' factor but held off and did the more important things first like coilpacks, zorst from the turbo back, suspension, clutch, flywheel and now that i'm increasing boost and getting a PFC installed i decided it was time for the cooler. Cheers mate, Steve

Hey mate, I'm not sure I would go as far as cooling myself an experienced IC installer but I have done a fair amount of research and I am currently installing a FMIC into my R34. I chose the Blitz CS return flow intercooler as the piping goes back to the existing piping and doesnt require cutting of a hole through the battery tray or trimming of the fan (something I didnt want to do). Installing it hasnt been too difficult, its pretty straight forward and the kit supplies the necessary piping and brackets etc. I have hit the stage of installation that requires cutting of the front reo bar as well as plastic from the back of front bumper. I am not very happy with having to cut the reo bar, the plastic doesnt bother me but I am concerned about insurance and safety etc as they bar is put there for safety reasons in case of a crash. I have tried to find away around cutting it but it appears there would be very little alternative, I'm still glad I went for the return flow instead of the normal way as the cutting is still minimal in comparison and I also feel personally that the other way which involves cutting of the battery tray and fan blades looks shithouse and if its not done right can make your whole engine bay look cheap and tacky. If you need any info on where I got my cooler from flick me a pm - it cost around $750 delivered to Perth, a fair bit of money but its a quality product and the only downside i've found from going the return-flow option is you don't have room to run a cold air intake to your air filter. Hope this helps cheers, Steve

Yeh I'll keep an eye out and if the date's good i'll come along.. It will be the first time i've bought my car on a cruise, should be cool =)

Cheers Stewy, Was hoping somebody would be able to answer this nice and quick - may have to try and get my wheel off and attempt to measure it after all. =(

Hi Guys, Have done a search on how to reduce body roll and it appears the best bang for buck upgrade is the swaybar. From what I can tell whiteline swaybar it the way to go?? Does anybody know which one I would need and where is the best place to source them (I'm in Perth but I'm happy to order from wherever even the whiteline website if that's best just don't know which one I need and if its different for a sedan) Also is the swaybar just a bolt on item and is there anything else recommended to change/upgrade at the same time? I have BC Racing BR adjustable coilovers and a frust strut bar, thats about it. PS: SydneyKid, if you read this I think you are a legend and whatever you say I'll probably do (within reason) cheers guys, Steve

Hi All, Just wondering if anybody knew the length of the stock hub lugs on the rear of an R34 GTT Sedan. I'm running spacers and would like to get extended length lugs which I found from rhdjapan.com but I'm unsure of the length I need as I don't know the stock length. Any help is appreciated.. otherwise I guess I could try and take one out and measure it. Also if anybody has any tips or advice on removing the old ones and putting the extended ones in I would appreciate it. cheers, Steve

Hey Bud, If that is your nice 34 sedan in the pic then first of all grats. Secondly - Why do you want a second hand no-branded exhaust. The brand-named stuff at the highest price doesnt always guarantee quality but it's usually a good indicator (you get what you pay for). If you plan on keeping that beast in the pic save up and get yourself a decent exhaust bud.. every bit makes a difference in the end. cheers, Steve

Hi Guys, Apologies in advance if the question is stupid.. I currently have an immobiliser which is an Autowatch Pro I believe and was installed by the fellas at Autoworx when I complied the car.. At the moment I have to disarm it and then unlock the drivers side door with the key for all the doors to open (as the button the skyline key doesnt seem to work). Is it possible to wire the central locking and the alarm together so its as simple as 'arm' arms the car and locks it and 'disarm' disarms the car and unlocks it?? Any tips or ideas appreciated (or location of the central locking unit on the R34 gtt so I can look at it??) thanks, Steve

Thanks bro, I'll let you now.. first i gotta paint those bastards... causing me so much trouble!! PS: stop buying a new car every week (but feel free to buy me a car) -Steve

Hey Mate, Really appreciate you taking the time to give all this advice. I will go grab some thinners from Bunnings (and more paint i've nearly run out =< ) strip it back to the fibreglass and start over.. You mentioned not using wax & grease remover are you saying to just clean it with thinners and wait for it to dry then do primer>top>clear without sanding in between? Also you mentioned the top coat and clear coat before they are dry so should it all pretty much be one process?? (ie: primer coats every few minutes apart followed by black followed by clear) thanks again.

Due to the number of times I've done this and tried to eliminate the variable causing the problem. I have done the top coat within maybe half an hour (touch dry) of the primer coat. I also initially tried sanding the primer coat, using wax & grease remover then doing a top coat but both have returned the same result. thanks for your reply =)

Cheers bud will definitely give it a go, the eyelids I'm not overly worried about but I don't want anybody ripping off the spoiler and running away =( I was going to use Sikaflex but I'm not sure which one to get (there are about 10 variations). And I also don't know if they will cause any permanent damage to the paintjob or plastic eyelids.. I believe fishing line gets the part off but I'm not sure about the residue etc..

Hey mate don't know what a crows foot fitting is.. sounds impressive =/ Just noticed you're in ellenbrook - were you crusing with 2 other skylines around lunchtime on sunday and passed a black 34 sedan with gold rims that waved??

Nah mate, got the black 34 sedan with gold rims if you've seen it around its me =) Hope you got this sorted out bud. -Steve

Hi All, Trying to find a way to attach eyelids and bootlip to an r34 sedan. I've done searches and people are recommending sikaflex or 3M heavy duty thin double-sided tape. I've been to a few hardware stores and had no luck finding the tape and the dudes at bunnings tell me that sikaflex is pretty much permanent. Anywhere around Perth I can find something that will stick these two down nice and firm without being too permanent (ie: don't want to drill holes etc or have them permanently glued) I've tried Bunnings in Innaloo and Balcatta with no luck - any tips appreciated fellas. regards, Steve