Gibbo_R35

Ask yourself what you want the car for....if you want to pose and do laps down your favourite street and park it in the valet car park at a hotel then go for the Ferrari, however if you want performance plus the ability to use the car as an everyday driver with 4 seats then go the GTR. The Ferraris are a beautiful car but as the saying goes....Porsche for go and Ferrari for Show...ask yourself what you want it for and then make your choice

Nisskid, you made your opinions very clear in the last thread. Please do not come and continue your posts here, Duncan is posting information for those of us who actually are interested in the merits of his trials not on someones speculation on strengths of materials etc. If you would like to go out and buy a set of Rotas and destroy them in the name of strength testing then please do that and come back and post your results, however we are very much versed on your dislike of the ROTAS. Point made...now back to the actual testing.

The additional facts about the car are also brilliant, try reading them. I love translation software it makes reading so much fun. The car would look awesome if it were crushed to an overall height of 3 inches.

Come on guys give the lad a break....I actually got a laugh out of it. I felt like we were just transported back to 2008 when everyone speculated about everything from transmission durability through to the "Fact" that this new GTR was "Untunable" due to Nissan Japan locking the car down so much. I could add to these "facts" with little gems like: Did you know that Nissan Australia is so tight that: 1) ADM Cars did not get GPS 2) We had to wait months to finally get the floor mats 3) We did not get the card input for our Bose Sound Systems 4) We did not get voice activation for anything These little facts are ones that you would really have to search for. Cheers

I am open to any offer on the two rear Bridgestones....They are in Sydney and would needed to be freighted down to you. I would be happy with say $50 a tyre and you cover freight. Cheers, Gibbo

I had the new Dunlop SP600's fitted today, got them from Taleb tyres who now also have the Bridgestones in stock and are getting the new Toyo semi slicks...(I am very keen for these). Anyway The road noise is actually very good, certainly no worse than the brigestones (I actually think they are a bit quieter), I will let you know grip when I do a track day in about 2 weeks. On a side note, I have two rear Bridgestones with about 50% tread that I do not need, it seems the fronts wear out much quicker than the rears (Even with the way I drive). If anyone wants then for a couple of bucks they are all yours. PM me if keen. Whatever I get for them will be donated ...half to the Movember cause and the other half to the SAU site. Cheers, Gibbo

I assume that you want to drive it and not have the owner drive it. If so what are the details of the driver....eg age etc.

Max, Where are you based? The dealer I have been going with is Macarthur at Campbelltown in Sydney. I will get the pads after the change and post some photos. I will also send a letter to Nissan with the photos.

I can definately upshift when the red light comes on, hell I can even up shift when the rev limiter kicks in.

I had exactly the same issue 2 weeks ago, 8,600km and pads are cracked. I told Nissan what I thought but they do not care. As such, have Ferodo DS2500 pads on order, should pick them up today, will have them fitted next week. I have done a couple more track days that you but exact same km's and exact same issue. These are definately the worst performance I have ever got from a set of pads, as such time for aftermarkets. The rotors will be the AP's after they fail...not if they fail...but when they fail.

Dunc, I look forward to your results with wheels and tyres, I am looking at either a setup like yours or doing the Hoosiers on 19s. I get the feeling that the "inferior" arguement has now been flogged to death so hopefully heresay and speculation can stop and the guys who are actually testing and doing something rather than just keyboard bashing can have their thread back. Keep up the good work Dunc you have provided more technical data and proven testing on the R35 on the track than almost anyone (Not forgetting Munro, Martin et al...lol) Cheers.

I went through the oils issue with the service manager when he picked my car up. They said there would be no service issue as long as the oils performed as claimed. There was no hesitation on my request to use my supplied oils and no mention of voided warranties if I went ahead with it. I gave the manager all the detail links and he was happy with what he saw. That being said the story may change if something fails.

Tyres were from Taleb tyres tyres here in Sydney. They were very good to deal with.

Rather than start a new thread I will highjack yours Mark...sorry. I had my 10k service done yesterday, I had it done a couple of thousand Km's early because I wanted to get them to change out the transmission fluid and diff fluid. Here is the long and the short with a breakdown of costs: Total Service $499.50. They replaced the standard trans and diff oil for me with Willall oils. $94.00 10,000km service labour $94.00 Engine Oil 6L $112.05 Here is the killer Replacement bolts for undertray $115.00 (Because I asked for the diff and trans oils to be done they had to drop the tray off and hence Nissan policy of replacing all Bolts. Overall the $500 for the service is quite good, MacArthur Nissan at Campbelltown even picked my car up and dropped it back in the afternoon. Very happy with the service. So the result of the service is as follows: Willall Trand and Diff fliuds are awesome, after a number of track days and this car as my everyday driver I know how it used to be, I know when it would clunck etc. Now it is perfect, smooth changes, no clunking. People have said this before but I will reiterate, get these oils and even if you car is only got 500km on it, replace the oils with the Willall stuff. The service also had a down side, my brake pads are shot, the bonding of the pad to the plate is breaking down, there are cracks in the pad and they need replacing. According to Nissan's policy I should also replace the disks, this is after 8,000km. Anyhow I have new pads coming today and will have them fitted next week. Nissan claims that the track work with excessive heat has caused this, I call BS but gives me an excuse to buy the new pads. Tyres are also fairly well shot, I will get them replaced next week with the Dunlops. So there you go, summary of ownership costs after 8,000km are: Willall Fluids $1,000.00 Nissan Service $500.00 Brake Pads $478.00 Tyres $2,600.00 Total: $4,578.00 (Excludes Track adjustments and Mid pipe) Thought others might find this useful when working out their servicing costs.

Guys, I have bought the SP600 run flat tyres from Taleb Tyres at Arncliffe, they were exceptional on their price, I would highly recommend these guys. Call them and ask for their best pricing, they were well under 3 grand fitted for all four tyres. PM for exact pricing if you like, but you are better off calling them, I shopped around and they were the best. Cheers, Gibbo

I was sent these by one of the guys at work after telling him I thought about getting the car resprayed... What are your thoughts?

I had better sell my car now...lest I do something stupid and start modifying it. That looks awesome.

Mark, I know my kids already complain about having to cross their legs when in the back seats and that the low position makes them feel sick.

That will buff right out...

This 3.6s intrigues me, the reason I ask is: The best I have managed is a 3.9, that was last week. Only mod is a mid pipe. I would love to meet someone who is doing consistent sub 4 second times (in a stock car) to see what I am doing wrong on the launch. Whilst most of my fun is on the track, I do have the performance box fitted and love testing the car for things like 0-100. How are you measuring your 0-100 times? I appreciate that you now have a few mods on the car, however I am still curious, because your times seem to be far better than what most people are achieving. Cheers. Gibbo.

Thanks for the reply, that makes more sense. Cheers

How is the performance of the disks, they look a little basic, no slots....can understand the no cross drill but no slots. On a car like the R35 I would do away with the cross drilling but definately keep the slotted rotors....any ideas on why this design was chosen?

$25k....hmm.... I would get the Upper control arm upgrade to allow extra camber, I would then get the stage one flash from Cobb (Or equivalent), the rest of the money would go in the bank for when something breaks and Nissan tell me where I can shove my requested warranty repairs. The midpipe is a must also... but I have that so I can put more money in the bank.

I actually noticed the increase intervantion of the stability control even with just the Midpipe added. In R mode I am getting it come in more than I did before. I have not tracked since the mid pipe was installed however I have a day planned in about 3 weeks so I can finish of the Bridgestones before the Dunlops go on. It is an interesting point you have raised Duncan and I am curious now. Cheers

Ok...well maybe not then......how about a black marker instead....just make sure you stay in the lines..