airbox

I had that once on an old Nissan stanza but from the front wheel. I eventually traced it to the lead wheel balancing weight that wasn't gripping the rim tight enough and every time the wheel moved, especially at slow speed the weight would move round the wheel and tap against the weight on the other side. Can't remember what it was like at speed cos obviously the wheel was not balanced,

I have got Tein superwagons on my s1. I phoned up Tein and they said that if the adjusters are wound all the way in clockwise that is the hardest setting. That is position 0. There are then about 26 clicks out anticlockwise, however only the first 16 do anything ( ie from 0 to 16 ), that is then the softest setting. I have got mine on 6 clicks out from fully wound in clockwise and it feels pretty good. Next on the list is for the whiteline antiroll bars, back first then front. Just finding it a bit hard to get hold of the right ones in the UK.

cheers for that!! I've got it all sorted now on a proper machine with the software for the stagea. Rear toe was well out which meant the front was out. Rear camber we adjusted to the least we could on the standard adjustment, it is still too negative by half a degree at 1.75 but I am happy with that. Front camber was spot on which is odd because I lowered the front a bit more than the back. Castor was spot on. Well pleased!!!

cheers. I went back to the tyre fitters and he put the laser things on the back wheels and sure enough the were unequal. When he saw that the adjustment was the eccentric nut he said he wouldn,t do it because blah blah blah. Said he would only do it if it was proper track rod ends like the front. He said you needed proper suspension specialist. He then said that I would never get the tracking correct because it is lowered. I think he could be talking bollocks. I shall now have to try and find someone who will do it. I am in the UK mate!!

have just found sydneykid's thread on steering etc. will get them to adjust the rear toe in/out to zero too. Is it just a case of undoing the nut on the rear tie rods and turning the eccentric adjuster to obtain the correct toe in/out and then retightening up the nut? As for the rear camber, I have just fitted Tein superwagons and lowered the front mainly so that the car is on a more even keel but you can see that the rear has negative camber. How do you measure it? Should the hole in the washer of the rear camber eccentric adjuster be pointing directly at the diff or should the hole be at the top pointing towards the centre of the car, sort of 10 o'clock position? What about front camber? How is that measured and adjusted? And finally castor, how is that measured and adjusted? If the place I am taking it to, just a local tyre and exhaust place are unable to set the camber and castor, then should I just get them to set the front and rear toe in/out to zero and then try and find somewhere else sometime to do the rest? The steering I thought was a bit vague when I got the car but I have got used to it I suppose. Would increasing to a more positive castor help with this? Is it something that I can do at home or is special measuring stuff needed? And the same with the camber too? Cheers, Dave.

I had the tracking done yesterday and I am sure they have done it wrong. they used one of these laser things that shine between the front wheels and also shine down to the back. The guy adjusted the front wheels so that the toe in/out was zero. the lasers pointing to the back were at +5 and +2 ( not sure what the units are ). He then adjusted the front tie rods so that the lasers pointing to the back both read +3. By doing this he put the front toe to +1.5 on one side and -0.5 on the other. He said this was the best he could do. So to my mind the front wheels are now both pointing slightly to the right and to maintain a straight line the steering has to be turned slightly to the left. I think I will go back tomorrow and tell him to redo the tie rods at the front so that they are parallel again, ie zero toe in/out. At least then it should steer in a straight line with the steering wheel pointing straight. I think the back wheels must be out of parallel but I can't see any way to adjust them ( series1 RS4 ).Please help!!!!

just read the DIY thread and apparently you have to remove the carpet sides in the boot and undo 2 more nuts from the inside. These must be the outside edge ones that I thought were the ball and socket type that just push together. Stupid idea I think, ball and socket would be much better, wonder if there is a way of fitting some.

one of my brake lights on rear corner, not the tailgate ones, has blown. How the hell do you get the light cluster off? I have removed the two bolts that are accessed once the tailgate is opened but it just wont come off and I dont want to exert any more force on it as I think I'll break it. Do you have to remove the inside trim and access anything from that way?