wolverine

0.82 turbine housing is my pick but it's worth asking for other opinions.

I copied and pasted "+turbo +whine" into search and got 73 results. Maybe search works differently on my computer. The whine could be a turbo/manifold gasket leak, a leak from any hose clamp on the induction side or a split hose.

Anything that bolts up to the stock dump pipe is a compromise for the 60mm turbine. There has been disappointment from these housings in terms of their power they make at the top end. So while you feel like you are saving some money on the front end you may end up with an expensive lesson if the results aren't what you want. The GTX3071 'on paper' will make similar power to the older 76mm GT compressor but history has shown that the AVO will probably max out before the compressor has done its best. The ARR is just what it sounds like and area radius ratio so there is not much joy in comparing the 0.73 to a garrett 0.63 or 0.82 GT30 framed ARR. The 0.73 seems to flow less than the 0.63 (The Mafia has done more to max out a 0.63 than anyone if you search for it). I think you will get better results if you suck it up and change dump pipes and use a native garrett housing. Hypergear results recently are showing some really good results that are very similar on paper to HKS2835ProS, plus the Kando Dynamic turbos also are producing good numbers at great prices but also require a little bit of fiddling around, like a Garrett turbo, the first time you install one. If you are committed already I would ask if you can change to the Garrett turbine housing instead.

I realise this is a silly suggestion but have you tried the search button with keywords like "+turbo +whine"? Perhaps this issue has happened before.

Don't buy one with the AVO housing.

spray the coils with urethane sealcoat.

Oh yeah cleaning is the way to go. It isn't that hard to get to them from memory. It is nothing like getting to the HVAC (cricket in the dash thingy) on the R33 due to the farking airbag getting in the way and not having fingers like ET. 2hrs with the sill of the car in the small of the back looking upwards until you have a headache for 2 days was not that funny....and I failed. lol

If you have a search there is a thread on it somewhere sh@un but the filters are located on the passenger side dash and can usually be cleaned with a vaccum cleaner and a wash. Here it is: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/281475-stag-series-2-air-con-filter-removal/page__gopid__4744526#entry4744526

Well the Top Gun pilot thing has been explained in this rant by Tarantino in Sleep With Me. ...and he jumped on Oprah's lounge.

Rich guys go well with the ladeez too but that doesn't make it right. A couple of us handsome lads at SAU are far more deserving of a drive in F1....bastard.

Just make sure you assemble all the parts you need to change.

You watch Greys Anatomy?

What Simon says. That price sounds very cheap if it includes everything you should be replacing considering most locally sourced 100,000km part kits are over $450 excluding spark plugs and exterior belts.

Seriously, someone kill me....."stars"....like wtf.

x13 lol

(carefully backs away)

Knowing about the ROC and liking the ROC are two different things.

Nope. The positives all came out in the early 80's but modern turbo design has taken the fun out of owning a HKS2540.

Automotive service solutions sell them new. They are not hard to find.

x2

See you later chef.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/297224-installing-seimens-deka-injectors-onto-a-neo-rb25-r34/page__p__5729116__hl__%2Br34+%2Binjectors__fromsearch__1#entry5729116

The turbos are high mounted behind the strut towers so no engine out for a simple turbo swap. I am not sure I have seen an easier location to remove a turbo.

10-12psi

Whooah, slow down there. Spraying the element with contact cleaner is hardly going to damage the element. If you are using an oiled filter that is over oiled then cleaning regularly is pretty simple insurance. If you are having ongoing issues with your AFM the most common reason is poor connections where they are soldered. If you take the lid off the AFM and re-solder the connections (which is a 30-60 minute job for a noob) you can sort out the vast majority of AFM probs for not much effort. Certainly cheaper than spending $80-100 for a second hand one potentially with the same issues or >$300 on a new one.