Jump to content
SAU Community

wolverine

Members
  • Posts

    6,244
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by wolverine

  1. Unigroup. Either get them to drop the front driveshaft or drop it yourself. If they are happy to let it on the dyno with the little green plug pulled then you can go that way. I would strongly suggest using them.
  2. Page 27 of this catalogue by Garrett http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/images/catalog/catalog_common/Garrett2007Catalog.pdf Looking for my invoice from MTQ but its hiding somewhere.
  3. Passenger side kickpanel. Pretty much just pull the kickpanel and the panel clips should release.
  4. Venom are a very good product and very well priced. Plus you are supporting a local guy.
  5. pm sent make sure you double and triple check the CHRA number I gave you is the correct one just in case.
  6. I don't think anyone here was expecting there to be much wrong with the final power number. It looked a bit lazy coming on boost to most of us and that implied that there was more that could be done in the set up. Hopefully AVO can fine tune the potential issues you found and get Shifty the best result from his new turbo.
  7. Have a look at Deka injectors and aeromotive fuel pumps as well.
  8. They usually run out of resolution at or around 225rwkw ish. I would very strongly suggest you stop leaning on the car until you get the Nistune and dyno the car. Although they usually run rich with more boost on stock ECU's, if you are hearing audible pinging in the car you are doing damage. What fuel pump? Before you go on the dyno make sure you have all your exhaust mods sorted, fuel pump, injectors etc sorted.
  9. discopotato03 has one on his shelf.
  10. You should be able to get the -3 cartridge I mentioned above locally for around $1100 if you ask nicely. My new cartridge was installed for that price by MTQ in Sydney after a friendly arm wrestle. ATP cartridge will need to add shipping which should still come under $1000 but still worth considering buying locally.
  11. The exhaust gases should be expanding on exit.
  12. edit: wrong thread by me sorry Autech'ers
  13. Hopefully Trent will call us all a bunch of clueless keyboard warriors.
  14. Pretty sure I sent you the UAS stopper Bob.
  15. The UniqueAutoSports brake stopper fits fine on an R33 and RS4S.
  16. Is the wastegate able to open enough with all the pre-load?
  17. Time to sell and upgrade IMO. The existing housings would need to be machined to fit. Even if there is enough meat in the housings I think it would be a highly compromised setup. By the time you sell your very in demand turbo kit you will be well on the way to paying for a new fitted GT3076.
  18. Are you picking it up today?
  19. GT-t front and rear calipers, DBA 4000 rotors and Bendix Ultimates installed overnight. New Fenix 42mm alloy (R33) radiator also fitted this morning....a little trimming but it seems to fit reasonably well.
  20. Does anyone know if there is any difference between a Stagea Series 2 and a GT-t brake master cylinder. They list different part numbers but both appear identical and are both BM50's? I have searched previous posts from Darrin after his GT-t brake upgrade but I haven't found any information on potential differences.
  21. Valencia coverage needed more of the chicks in the pool.
  22. I am looking forward to seeing this set up working at its potential.
  23. Do you have a HKS 2835ProS housings now? If so, why not just buy the correct cartridge for your turbo. They are available locally. I have the CHRA as 700177-3 (56mm 84 trim turbine variant)
  24. I don't hate split dumps but the bellmouth made more power on back to back runs with a GT-RS. I have a split on the R33 (ext gated). So I consider myself a swinger.
×
×
  • Create New...