wolverine

R33 have sidefeed injectors not topfeed. Nismo injectors are a good way to go.

How does Massa make the car look like such a handful?

370cc stock injectors. 500cc injectors good for 500hp at engine with a margin for safety. I have Nismo 480cc and a few guys are using Siemens Deka's in 600cc??

Area radius ratio is just that....a ratio that is only relevant to that specific housing. A 0.63 GT40 housing is miles bigger than a 0.82 GT30 housing.

^^ yes to refueling Seeing F1 cars trundle around +8 seconds off quali times sucks.

Ask Scotty to make one up he might help one of us dirty RB owners out. He knows to angle the BOV return correctly back towards the compressor snout. Hopefully you reproduce similar results to those supplied by Hypergear. They look the biz.

Live timing from formula1.com is a must for watching F1 races. You can keep up with pitstops etc.

Talk to Hypergear about it to understand what the differences on the road but I would buy the most responsive turbo I could for my money. $400 in the scheme of things is a round of drinks if it is a step up in low/mid performance given the ancillary costs of fitting, tuning etc. I have never been in a car with a Hypergear turbo so I am only able to go off what I have read here on the forums.

Tune it up to 18psi and control boost with your right foot. Easy peasy. Did you get a price on the "SS" version as well?

Just keep in mind the extra weight of the car. I think you should target something that will make 250rwkw without wringing the neck of it (which will still have another 20-25kw by leaning on it). Any less is hardly worth it, much more isn't that usable IMO on the road. Delivery of power and average power are more important....peak power isn't everything.

I would look at the SS designated model from Hypergear if you are thinking of going that way.

Look at the hypergear thread and go from there.

I had a HKS GT-RS (240-250rwkw) and have now swapped it for a HKS2835ProS (260-270rwkw). The smaller turbo (and they are very similar) is the pick for cut and thrust city driving and made plenty of power. The ProS is nicer on longer trips and has a very progressive delivery just not quite as responsive down low. I personally wouldn't go too much larger than these two on the stagea in manual form. I have a larger framed turbo on the R33 but it isn't hampered by another 400kg.

This topic has been covered a lot in forced induction. A good hiflow is a reasonable option up to around 250rwkw +/- 10kw. If you want more then the GT3076 is the best bet, making sure you get the portshrouded comp cover and 0.82 turbine housing. (there a few different versions so take your time checking what you are getting).

ps. If you are determined to use the factory pattern dump pipe then buy a hi-flow from GCG or Hypergear. It will work out cheaper and you will get decent results.

I think you will be disappointed with a bitza turbo that won't perform like a GT3076 in its native Garrett housings.

I call shenanigans, RBR have connected one of these to his KERS button. Soundracer No wonder he hasn't noticed, they are so realistic.

SV couldn't get past Gonzo on the racetrack either...

Sell old dump, fabricate new front pipe to match Garrett pattern supplied dump.

GCG should be supplying one in that price. You do not want to compromise with a non-garrett turbine housing if you want to get the best results.

GCG will supply everything from dump, oil/water lines and clock the housings (which can save workshop time). Is it worth it??? It depends on how much your time is worth for some of the niggly things when going aftermarket.

Like non-oem windscreen wiper blades? Upgraded radiators, brake pads, higher spec tyres, upgraded suspension.....

Hamo and JB to make it to turn 1 before SV. I want to see SV get past two cars without damage. 50 to 1 I reckon on past form. (I am expecting hell to freeze over and Captn Chin to power away from the line)

SV would take a hollow pole if offered.

Go 100% hack