wolverine

Or different rolling diameter tyres (perhaps simply due to wear) leading to ATTESA issues.

Have you thoroughly checked the vacuum lines yet?

disco, clear your pm box will ya.

Did you check your pm's?

Just put fresh fuel in. Simple is best.

They are using new feedstock not reconditioned old ones as you state BB.

Have a good look for a vacuum leak, especially at the front of the plenum. I have seen several cars with with a small split on the bottom that open up when the rubber softens but is hard to spot.

Yeah but what car would feel awesome to them? Might as well drive a shitbox.

Check out this thread, some fool eh. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/271736-my-r34-gtr-front-end-stagea-build-thread/page__hl__r34

I am glad this has helped someone. Make sure you get the D2C cable as well as the globe.

pm sent

The mechanic I use always tidies up the pipe with a die grinder before fitting so it should be worth your while.

I decided to replace the relatively disappointing halogens in stagea, we were having ongoing issues with them. I have used another guide from SAU to help with my install, here is the link to that guide. R34 GTR HID install DIY As we all now compliance butchers the factory Xenon loom (unless you ask nicely) so first I needed to know what kit would suit the stagea. The type of headlights are imprinted on the top the headlight body all you need is a torch or daylight to read them. They are listed as D2R with the highbeams being listed as H1. (note: there are three types of HID's D2R (reflector type) and D2S (projector type) and D2C (interchangeable with both). I chose to support a forum sponsor in Kaixen for my kit. It was suggested I use a D2C kit from them which cost $195 kit price + $15 D2C wire. The kit contains everything you need but some basic tools are required such as screwdrivers, a drill, a small hole saw and some spanners. It would have helped if I documented and photographed everything in real time but I hope I have covered the key points and issues. 1. Disconnect and/or remove the battery and factory airbox, if you are comfortable working in tight spaces you can work around them. 2. Remove the plastic headlight cover by turning it anticlockwise, release the clips holding the globe and remove globe. Remove the compliance installed aluminium H1 retaining plate (mine was located with adhesive so a pull with a hook removed it). If you look inside you will notice that there are small locating cams for the D2R/D2C globe at the top globe opening. 3. Try to find a location inside your engine bay within reach of all cables by dummy fitting the ballast (amplifier box) using the supplied brackets, double sided tape and cable ties. I found suitable locations using existing bolts or engine bay fittings. During dummy fitting I came across the first issue for this install. The D2C cable comes out at 90 degrees and this makes it very difficult to find a way to get the cable out to the ballasts. The recommended method is to drill a hole at the back of the headlight cover but the angle of the cable is too extreme for my liking. My solution was to use a diegrinder to cut a relief at the bottom of both headlights. **note the location of the cable when connected to the globe and consider the effect on the function of the cover before deciding where you remove material**. Equally a drill bit could be used. Cutting in this manner necessitates resealing the hole with something like silicon. (more discussion at the end on neater solutions such as the H1 kit) 4. Attach the power cable supplied with spade terminals to the existing +ve terminal (attached to the globe) and -ve terminals (attached to the globe surround) inside the headlight. Thanks to the compliance guys for getting their reds and blacks back to front. 5. Attach ballasts to the engine bay. 6. Connect all cables to the ballasts. 7. Replace headlight cover, battery and airbox (if removed). 8. Turn lights on. 9. Test height of lights and adjust with the factory adjusters for the comfort and consideration of your fellow motorist. In terms of installation the Kaixen H1 kit (vs D2C used) would probably be easier to install as it would require a using a using a hole saw on the headlight covers and already has a rubber grommet on the looms to the ballasts to reseal the hole. There is a suggestion that the D2C globes are less likely to glare compared to the H1's but I am not sure one way or the other. Maybe someone with specific knowledge can clear this up.

x2 wastegate straight off turbine housing is probably the easiest way.

Oops, just re-read your post Scott. I geddit now. Looks like fun trying to shoehorn something in there. I have acres of room in the R33 with a HKS manifold and external gate apart from having to massage the engine mount to clear the comp cover.

Why worry at all, if it isn't prone to surge then surely that is good thing. The tiny reliefs should take care of any slight tendency. I can't wait to see the results.

100% faux port shrouding... ...the absolute must have this summer.

It looks like a port shrouded cover with none of the material removed.

In the process of installing Kaixen HID's.

There are externally gated housings for the GT3071.

I can run dual maps and load them up as needed but it means bigger injectors in both cars (possibly can get away with it in the R33) and a new fuel pump in the stagea. Until the fuel is readily available it isn't practical. Richmond in NSW is about 35 minutes from home.

I say for a long time. That was 10 places in NSW in total vs 10 servos on the way home for me. I am dubious that there will be a mass roll out unless more cars are produced to run on the fuel and the industry genuinely gears up to produce it, I think it will remain a niche market. The only servo that I go anywhere near is in Richmond but I would need to consider carefully where I was driving to use it if I intended relying on it.

A shame E85 isn't available everywhere so it still remains a more exotic fuel. I hear you when it comes to too much boost too early. If you could fit a larger framed turbine in there you can get a nicer more linear delivery. It is one of the reasons, apart from curiosity, why I switched the GT-RS for the 2835ProS (53mm GT28 turbine vs 56mm GT30 based turbine and 52trim 71mm comp vs 56 trim comp). They are more similar on a dyno chart than a bit like what HKS shows on their promo blurb but worlds apart to drive.

It looks like an RS4S to me, seats, gauges, RS4S sticker...(and rust under the mirrors ). It has a DAYZ sticker I believe it is possible that the front bar wasn't optioned?!?! It is equally possible this has been replaced for some reason (perhaps accident??) The front bar is different from the one on Ms Wolvs. Get someone to check it on FAST.

I might be worth making the note that you are not talking pump fuel in case anyone searching thinks 350rwkw is achievable with that cartridge. I still feel this would be a high number for a GT3071 using a full size GT30 front and rear housings on E85 but ultimately a dyno is a tuning tool and its best use is measuring before and afters. I still wonder where the improvement comes from your current power level with any turbo change without making the car less drivable day to day.