wolverine

Whiteline made some upgraded swaybars so I am presuming someone still has them. The sizes are on the forum somewhere from an old sydneykid group buy in the stagea section. With an RS4S you already have larger swaybars than the auto versions so an upgrade isn't as big an upgrade compared to other C34 owners. Nevertheless they can be upgraded from 19mm solid front to 22mm solid, rear is 24mm hollow to 24mm solid. If you order them be 100% sure the rear will fit an RS4S the subframe is narrower ie R33GTR rear bars should fit. Movement in the bar might indicate a snapped swaybar link?!? You can replace the front castor rod bushes but adjustable front castor rods with urethane bushes is the way I went. The rear of the car also runs out of camber adjustment so rear arms are usually needed to stand the rear wheels up a bit. Eccentric bushes don't give you enough adjustment. "Lubed every bush I could see....." this thread is delivering like an episode of Benny Hill.

If the current turbo is an R33 based turbo it just needs the Nistune to remap the areas where there are issues. Best bet is to have a look at the current turbo and work out what it is by checking the numbers on the housings. It shouldn't be hard to work out with some pics. There is a neo turbo in the FS section for $350 which is the cheapest option to go back to stock. For scott, the GTX3071 looks like the pick for me. The HKS2835ProS on the stagea sounds like a jet engine at this point until I make a partition/airbox for it. A shame there isn't much room in the M35's but with some of the new CNC billet wheels becoming available there might be a chance of poking something quite tasty into a small space over the next few years...for a reasonable price.

FWIW I believe and upgrade from a 24mm hollow to a 24mm solid is approx a 70% increase so this is a significant upgrade especially on the rear. Did Todd Selby indicate what % increase these bars will provide?

If we back to back the same core with a BB core it might feel even better. Clearly the Trust turbos are fantastic bushbearing turbos so I am definitely not saying bushbearing has no merit. I am in no way questioning their ability to make power but the response generally isn't as good. Garrett publish the difference in response on their website for their cores if you go trawling. I had a bushbearing rebuild and there is no comparison to a quality BB on the road. When it comes to rebuilding turbos I believe it is worth spending the extra few hundred dollars on a BB core as the cost of changing turbos from labour to tuning makes it worth getting the best possible result the first time especially considering (in this case) there is no rush. The stagea is a heavy car and IMO needs every bit of help it can get and is more sensitive to losses in response than a lighter car. If/when you upgrade the turbo again Scott I will be interested to see what differences you notice.

I figured you must have had a very long day.

Best bet is to save up for the Nistune and get it tune with the existing turbo. Don't spend the money rebuilding the old turbo until you are ready for a significant power upgrade. By then there may be better options out there anyway. The difference isn't that great between an R33 (series 1 stagea) and R34 (series 2 stagea) stock turbo. The turbine housing is a little bigger on the R34/OP6 housing which gives about 10kw more top end (+/- a few kw) when you wring the neck of it.

more info??

It will be a bushbearing rebuild and you can do much better. The response of bushbearing turbos can be disappointing. A GCG will bolt back on with no modification required at all so no need for oil or water line modifications. I would have a good long hard think before going one way or another. Remembering that one upgrade will often lead to another, from airflow meters to injectors. Do you have an idea of how much power you want? Are you happy with current power levels (give or take a little)?

I read this three times Lith and I am no closer to understanding the first sentence.

There are lots of other types of rebuilds but if you are going back to a stock framed turbo the GCG ball bearing turbo for about $1800ish is the pick IMO. There are cheaper bushbearing options from other places but GCG have consistently put out a good product. Have a good read of the forced induction boards for more information as the choice of turbo has been covered so many times. You need to understand exactly what you want out of your turbo ie power, boost threshold, other required modifications etc before you can get good advice. ps. It is less likely that the car is pinging, more a case of rich & retard as airflow exceeds the ECU's comfort zone. Turn the boost controller down (anticlockwise?) in the meantime until stops ie around 10psi +/-

Are you still talking about your gearstick?

Google "sequential turbo' and make yourself sick with the daunting task of reading it all.

Check the engine mounts, check the bushes on the suspension on that side. The lower front urethane bushes on the bilsteins is flogged out already on our car so there is plenty of things to check under there.

Hi Charlie Glad to see you got the message.

When it comes to the HKS2835ProS lets get a few facts straight. The turbine housing is unique to HKS you can't buy it from Garrett. The cartridge is a generic Garrett. The HKS2835ProS generally comes as a kit which includes intake, dump, oil water lines, + fiddly things like nuts and bolts etc. I think GCG's turbo kit for a GT3071 usually arrives clocked with oil and water lines, dump, spacer but no air intake takes you over $2500. I have a quote for more than this from GCG for something similar from a while ago. So the comparison that it is $1500 dearer is probably not a fair comparison. Cheaper to buy Garrett = yes, Cheaper to install Garrett = maybe not (for most of us paying someone else) Better result = no So the GTX3071 might be a game changer but until we see some results it is only talk (but good talk). I think the price of a new HKS2835ProS is prohibitive for many but they do produce very good results so perhaps money well spent vs frigging around at exhaust shops etc getting it all working. Certainly comparing the HKS/Garrett twins that are known to be identical isn't that relevant. There is a Garret internally gated housing for the GT3071 with 56mm turbine (ie same cartridge as the 2835) but there haven't been many results of note posted. This is the best comparison as the only difference is the turbine housing.

Do you have the flow figures for the divided and undivided housings?

Until we see some local results it remains a theory but a promising looking one. I agree with using a 0.82 housing.

I wish we could get them fitted and tuned in Sydney for $850 but the list price is $1100 at two workshops I know. I am sure both shops charge a little less if you are known and ask nicely.

For $20ish Chuckies urethane seal coat is the no-brainer first step if you are having coil pack issues.

Ahh, so you have Charlies car. I can't remember what turbo is on there. I am pretty sure he had a bleed valve for boost control (at least I think I gave him the one from my R33) but I am not sure whether he fitted it before selling the car. I will give him a call and ask him...if his phone numbers are current.

A number of reputable shops in Sydney will fit and tune Nistune for $1100.

The stagea is a massive log, so the lower weight in an R34 will definitely feel snappier. It makes full boost in a similar spot to yours already it is just a case of making it a little more responsive if possible. We should find out next week what improvements are possible.

pm sent bubba

Flav is a weapon, there is no question. If you look up "batting above your average" in the dictionary there is a pic of him in his pink G.