wolverine

http://www.autoracingdaily.com/news/formula1/f1-boss-flavio-briatores-stunning-wife-on-the-beach/ Pic of Flava-Flavs wife......

Do you really want an explanation?? 1. A car running on a dyno at 120km/h with switch disconnected = no problem 2. A car running on a dyno at 120km/h with driveshaft removed = no problem Electronic glitch occurs perhaps 1/10,000 - 1/1,000,000?? chance and ATESSA re-engages Case 1 Drive engages and potentially serious injury to operator and car. Case 2 Zero risk of drive engaging. It is probably a very low risk but it only takes 5 mins to disengage and bring the risk to zero. So if you don't want to contribute any more because I agree with you for 99% of what you have said and disagree with you in one minor way then that is your call.

I read and re-read what I wrote and I just can't find the bit where I said pulling the plug was wrong or would cause damage to the car. On the other hand I was really pleased to have the information at hand to be able to stick it in 2WD for road use. Well if you two want to get our knickers in a knot by reading waaay too far into what I wrote there isn't much I can do about that.

Ok chuckie you can take it confrontationally. For the rest of the SAU community I am suggesting that if drive was suddenly engaged on a dyno the consequences to life are very high. No driveshaft = no chance. There has been an incident on a dyno in Sydney where the operator nearly lost a leg when drive suddenly engaged on an R32 GTR years ago. Whilst this might be unlikely, for the 10 minutes it takes to remove the driveshaft it is worth the time. Driving on the road is a different matter.

Are you referring to Bass Junky? Pretty sure he had poncams and got good results but got nowhere with adjusting cam gears.

It should work and when it doesn't you get in contact with the seller and organise a return. I sent laptop power supply back to a chinese company for a full refund including postage. It was really hard to get the smoke back into the box but I did my best to return it to them in the same condition. Cheap and cheerless purchase that one. Have you contacted the seller?

The C34 is labelled as a 4 speed auto??

Just for the record, if you are putting a car on a two wheel dyno I would strongly suggest removing the front drive shaft. If there is any electronic glitch while the drive shaft is still connected there could be catastrophic consequences.

They should fit an RS4S.

Webber should be on the phone to Kimi to find out the best way to prepare. A can of coke, an icecream, a few trampy strippers and a bottle of vodka or two. Pre-season sorted.

Yes as far as I know it is correct and this size will click back onto the bracket.

Fuel Filter DIY

There is one in the DIY section of SAU. It is the same for all all RB engine variants. It is located on the drivers side of the engine bay against the side wall. It is usually a tight mofo to remove so expect to curse much.

The GT-RS 53mm turbine, 52 trim 71mm comp vs HKS 2835ProS 56mm turbine, 56trim comp The power ratings are based on theoretical compressor flow of the two 71mm compressors, the real world results are based on the combination of the turbine that is mated to it. If they have machined the housing with no testing it might be a bit of a risk but HKS are bound to have spent some time and effort making sure it flows well enough to keep it around the performance of the ProS.

It is the same cartridge, the housings are unlikely to be too different in function (if you can trust HKS engineers), so as long as you get a well made dump there will be a bees wang in it. There will be more differences due to different dynos, different tuners, different ambient conditions.

I think they will give him a starting Torro Rosso seat before the season ends. He will be moving to RBR to fill MW's seat as soon as it is vacated.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=5565333 This might or might no explain the issues but I think installing NGK plugs in there is the next step.

Basic bolt on mods like Darrin says should get you there or thereabouts. Decent air filter, FMIC, full 3" exhaust, boost controller (turbotech should do the job $30), Nistune + tuning. Fuel pump should be fine but it is an extra that can be worth considering even with modest power levels. Labour is an issue for pushing your costs over your budget. You might get away with the stock intercooler but you will almost certainly change it down the track so why not do it up front and get the best value out of the tuning/dyno time.

With better boost control there is more to be had earlier on the ramp up to 3600rpm. It is making the numbers otherwise. Does it matter? This is a SAU so squeaking out every last bit of performance (especially early/midrange) is serious business especially when someone else is paying the bills.

The main issue with Turbotech (a few years ago) that I have seen is that as boost rises small turns can lead to large increases in boost. For low levels of boost they seemed to be great value but closer to 18psi it was getting a bit erratic so perhaps the tuner had a similar issue??

Boost control still looks like a bit of an issue but its making good power at 4000rpm. I would expect it to be a bit crisper and slightly earlier coming on boost and a little flatter holding your set level.

A better result this time.

I am pretty sure it has been the AFM all along. Fingers crossed you are sorted now.

pm sent

Idiot.