wolverine

I can't spell when in a hurry it seems (try Borat not Boral, labour not labout). The cams will achieve what you want as well it will idle fine even with an auto. It should increase your midrange and top end by about 10-15kw. If you don't re-shim and just replace the cams plus a few gaskets it won't be that expensive. One of the new GTX3071's might be an option if you want more power and more midrange but then you need intake, oil/water and dump pipe changes. I would caution you on going too large on the turbo front as you start going backwards with response on the street.

I have 260 deg poncams. There is a slightly lumpy idle but it idles fine. The car was shimmed to 0.45mm but this has created slight lifter noise. I would go with a skinnier clearance. Some people have checked it and left it factory shims (I don't know what clearances they end up having). The 260 deg seem to make the car better everywhere but I would still suggest you will get better value for money out of turbo selection/change. At the time that we decided to change them there was conjecture about the lift and duration of the factory cams so I sucked it up and changed them. Factor in labout to get to them, removal, new cams, new shims ($200+) and tuning vs new sexy time turbo (sorry watched Boral last night).

In most cases the cartridges are identical but housings have some variability.

Dynos are all the same, everyone knows that. They all give a different number.

So back on topic, PFC, oil and filter, straight to the tuner = happiness = no haters

sif mods can do math.

Gasket goo should do the trick but if you want genuine, check with some of the forum traders. They get some good prices on gaskets and other consumables, plus you are supporting SAU while you are helping yourself.

There is noise from the PCV valve at idle that will disappear when you rev it. Does a FFP have a PCV still attached? I guess they delete it so perhaps not that?!!? The afm is easy to solder....even I can do it and I am definitely not skilled in that department. The biggest issue is gouging out the silicon as it runs a bit deeper than you think. Once you pop it open the pins often look ok but hit them up anyway. I have fixed 4 afm's with intermittent issues, stalling, misfires etc. It might be something else in your case but there is little downside in re-soldering.

You could try resoldering the AFM pins. It is about a 30minute job and it might explain why the issue is intermittent. Leaks tend to be constant in my experience.

I should clarify the leak is mostly from that small hole on the face of the BOV to the side of the port.

Can you wield a soldering iron, a stanley knife and some spanners?

The factory BOV is designed to leak slightly at idle. If you have a pressure source on the top of the BOV identical to the other side it won't open. Have you got an AFM issue? Poor plug connection, dry/cracked solder internally on the pins?

Have the coil packs been looked at yet?

Without actually dividing the runners and creating a large restriction on one side that appears like it would be very turbulent getting gasses out. On then bright side it helps to show the benefit of maintaining smaller runners to keep velocity up to bring turbines to life earlier. I see how it could make power earlier but I don't see how this can make more power with a restriction of the divider and butterfly in the way.

location?

Read these answers carefully..... then A click of the search button will answer all the "why's and wherefore's" but the answer won't change unless you change your power requirements or budget.

Hi-flowed stock turbo is the cheapest, easiest, best bet to reach your 240rwkw target.

As long as you have upgraded the sway bars to control the roll then the spring/shock combo can mostly spend its time controlling vertical changes. From here it comes down to personal choice so if you weren't happy with the firmness then going up in spring rates is a fair thing.

Lag or response. I was choosing my words very carefully. I swapped out a GT-RS from the Stagea to a HKS2835ProS. The response of the GT-RS was superior. The 2835ProS clearly makes more power throughout the full range and is ahead of the GT-RS from quite early on. I am hoping with some more attention to the fuel/ign maps on the ramp to boost we can close the gap a little. The low mass and small diameter of the GT-RS turbine was lightening fast to react to on/off throttle situations.

What size sway bars do you have on there at present?

lol

I'm with Darrin I run the stock RS4S springs (not sure is they are the same as RS4 springs) with Bilsteins and 22mm solid front and 24mm solid rear sway bar. I beats me how this wouldn't be firm enough on Australian roads.

If I was eyeing off a GT3076 before I would be looking at the GTX3071 now. I would be crossing my fingers that lag is identical to the old GT3071 but will flow like a GT3076. I would also be crossing my fingers that the throttle response is kickarse with the lower mass compressor wheel.

http://www.formula1.com/news/headlines/2010/11/11553.html I am sure he is very good but there must be more to this than what we are seeing. What tyres are they using? 2nd quickest time was Renault and even the 3rd fastest Mercedes was quicker than Vettels pole time.

The compressor wheel dimensions seem to be different so will the clearances be ok in an older comp cover? The turbine doesn't appear to be an issue.