wolverine

Nistune is usually $800 fitted and tuned or thereabouts.

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I applaud your pragmatic decision sometimes being and proving you are right costs you more in hassle factor.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fi...;hl=afm++solder

Yep, and we were called wankers by the old guys. So we shut our traps, listened up and accepted good advice without compounding our youthful stupidity by backchatting. I agree about the bullying it needs to be looked at but it comes from frustration of long termers that this topic has been discussed to death and a simple search will answer nearly any question you can think of. If noobs need more info, adding a question to the old thread makes more sense than opening another which adds to the burden of further searches.

Cool are WE flying business class?? Would it help if I put your decision into perspective? Alfa 75 = MILF with all the trimmings, tight bod, good grip with a rear end bias. Renault Clio = 18 yr old also with an appropriate age related tighter bod, slightly front heavy (puberty is a marvelous thing these day) but rear end wiggles when you lift off. Alfa = Renault = Happy times.

lube is your friend.... ....as for the studs, WD40 soaking and time.

Getting back to the original question the answer is no. Most of us will suggest giving this modification a miss as there is nothing to be gained other than a bit of noise and a shitty return to idle/stall from doing it. It might get the ladeez neked though.

There are quite a few melted metallic cats out there.

Who built the hi-flow? That is laggier than my GT3040 on the R33.

My RS4S does the same thing. 260 deg poncams are the cause. Mmmm lumpy.

The manifold is not an issue at that power level. I would have a look at the wastegate as a reason for the lazy-ish boost response.

For a GT-RS on a RB25 it seems to be coming on fairly late at 3600rpm. The peak looks about right so there is still room for more power earlier when that is sorted. I'd expect it to be all in about 500rpm or so earlier.

You can but why??

Hey Baron do you need help to carry your bags or maybe check tyre pressures on the Beemer?

Nistune.

What turbo precisely? It seems like there is more to the story. I would spend more time talking to your tuner before getting too far ahead. Ask more questions about why the car seems to be pinging, why it is hard to start etc. If you have done this then what was their response?

Go to hospital and get a rape kit done.

Are you are using a HKS cast manifold.

More pics higher res pics please and definitely needs to go in the GT30 thread or a new ATP twin scroll thread.

^^ x2 Nick Our new organic clutch makes the car a much more pleasant drive in traffic.

^^huh? pretty sure that is what i said.

If you are going to spend on retuning then why not do it once it will cost you later anyway. The injectors and the stock afm will be a major limiting factor with that turbo. Maybe around 220rwkw.

Stock RB25DET based cars usually make 125rwkw (+/- 5kw) in stock form at the wheels vs 189kw factory output allowing some loss for age. Stock RB25DET neo make around 140rwkw with the same things in play. On a dyno there should be almost no drive to the front wheels with ATESSA unless there is wheelspin so the figures are almost always the same but if you want to allow for some front wheel losses then take away about 10kw. Using percentage loss can be a slippery slope but is used by some motor engineers, in practice losses are not static but close enough for most of us in streetable cars.

What more do you want to know? I would buy the 0.82 Garrett turbine housing and appropriate dump if you want to make 300rwkw down the track and buy the injectors now as well as the other stuff.