wolverine

Why not leave the factory cams and save some time and money that can go towards a known upgrade?

Although I have a PowerFC in the stagea this advice has just sorted out a small but longstanding issue with warm start. It always takes a little longer cranking than the instant start when cold. The idle screw has been butchered but I managed to get some WD40 in there and then left it overnight. I used a long handled flat spanner and managed to get some bite on the idle screw and managed to get it to shift. I disconnected the 2 pin plug to the idle stepper (located at the back of the cam covers) and then started the car (prior to adjustment it was idling roughly around 550rpm when the plug was disconnected) and adjusted the idle to around 800rpm. Once the plug is reconnected the idle settles nicely (and quickly) to around the 800rpm (per PFC idle setting). The warm start seems spot on already and there was a subtle tendency to hunt for idle previously which will no doubt be gone. Thanks NewKleer your post motivated me to check.

HKS2540 turbo = mild compressor surge (due to the relatively large size difference between the compressor and the turbine) I wouldn't worry about it at all. When/if you replace the turbo the issue will go away. I wouldn't even bother changing BOV's as it will probably be a waste of time and money.

Hey ctjet Find a cute grid girl and whisper tenderly in her ear....."chupa mi pinga?!" She will be so impressed with your grasp of Spanish.......if you are still standing you are in business.

Is the term speeding related to the "speed limit" or is it being used in vain when talking about the Autobahn? I don't see 200km/h as speeding on the Autobahn as it is legal but needs to be in the context of the level of traffic, conditions and time of day. If we are going to single out a driver on the Autobahn as irresponsible for "speeding" then what do we call F1 drivers, V8 supercar drivers, HQ drivers when they are plying their trade?

Trent is the change in ramp rates evident due to the earlier boost response shown on the graphs?

The neo powered stagea threw an intermittent check light when the coils were on their way out. Once replaced it resolved so I believe it is possible. There was no checklight with the R33 when the coils were done. I am not sure if the later model ECU has the capacity to throw the checklight or it was something coincidental but to the best of my knowledge it was the only part changed.

I still think this...

It will almost certainly be a 56trim compressor.

Or having a leisurely meal at the pub??

Why are you replacing the factory FPR? Are you trying to sneak a whisker more out the stock injectors for a small turbo upgrade?

Nevertheless the 0.63 will give better response at the cost of some top end....but it will meet all the requirements and is sitting there ready to go. There will no boost control issues which is the major potential drawback of the 0.63 internally gated housing. I think it is more a question of whether you want to go to an external gate vs internal gate as either turbo will work fine.

Where are Victorian police??

A search would answer your question. This has been covered in depth now. It is the ATESSA accumulator causing the relay to click. A second hand accumulator in good nick will fix it or follow the advice of the relevant thread and send yours out to be reconditioned. Here is one of the relevant posts http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=5084970 and here is a bit more http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=5041890

I had an AFM issue like that, the solder on the pins had cracked. Soldering iron sorted it out.

On the stagea the 260deg type B's made more power everywhere (sorry I don't have a pre/post dyno) with HKS GT-RS. Somewhere in the 10-20kw range depending on where you looked. All with stock cam gears. The seat of the pants dyno feels says more everywhere especially down low where I was worried about losing grunt especially with the big tub of a car to push around. Is it worth it??? I think due to the gains down low (that would only be even better with a larger turbo than the GT-RS) I would say yes if you have money to spend you are looking at fattening up the area under the curve. The caveat is that I am assuming that the tuning was as thorough on the pre-cams tune as the post-cams tune but same tuner same dyno.

My LC1 worked fine out of the box and connected to the Datalogit with no issues. I had a good trawl around the net for some extra diagrams before wiring it up as I am far from skilled with a soldering iron and circuit diagram in hand.

Personally I wouldn't bother with a HKS2530. It is a miniscule upgrade over the stock turbo and there are so many more modern options that are a better bet. I would run the stocker at 12psi with Nistune and when/if you get the urge to go bigger then you are into a space that will probably require larger injectors, Z32 afm etc. This will meet your needs and keep your costs down but get you a good streetable result. Changing turbos to something in used condition that is a bees wang with what you have is expensive and I reckon pointless.

AFAIK the S2 RS4S seats are the R34GT-t seats.

I'll make a bet it has been by-passed in the engine bay and you should be able to see this by looking on the firewall on the passenger side. The inlet and outlet hoses for the heater core will be joined there. Getting the heater core out is a bit of a chore.

^^yep^^

Nismo spray pattern is reputedly one of the best and should be good for 480hp.

Nismo 480cc top feeds for a neo engine are available at Nengun.

Stock turbo, bleed valve and nistune will get you there or close enough to there.

Blasphemers..... Stagea meets the criteria and no need to swap engines or farnarkle around.