wolverine

lol, oops.

Have a good look here at SAU there are a few members that are selling their cars and you can get a tidy example and do someone at favour at the same time.

White ARX25T on Beecroft Rd.

It sounds like it was lifter noise from not being started for a long time after all. The flush might have cleared that. I would still check compression.

Wastegate pre-load set up correctly? What are others getting with this bushbearing turbo?

I bet you are a happy camper. I drove around the yellow thing around today and all I think about is how another 500cc or so would make the car a whole lot nicer to drive in traffic. How much did you spend on the new motor?

Call Jim Berry before buying. The JB clutch in the R33 is like a stock clutch but much much higher clamp and is a pleasure to use by comparison to the cushion button in the stagea. JB will talk your ear off....

Why is there factory adjustment on the back? Where do Nissan set it from factory?

unfortunately it won't bolt up to the dump and it will require oil and water lines and intake mods. then again I am sure a search of the gazillion threads on this will give you are the information you will ever need.

from another site http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/breakin.php Keep in mind that there really shouldn’t be any metal to metal contact happening within your engine, other than the rings to the cylinder walls. The rings are the ONLY things we are interested in breaking in or seating. What seats rings is cylinder pressure. Rings and pistons are designed so that cylinder pressure sneaks behind the compression rings and forces them out against the newly honed cylinder wall. Why do I mention this? Because I want you to take your warmed up car out on the road, find a nice straight stretch and do a couple of heavy throttle runs in third or fourth gear from about 2500-5500 rpm. Each time you hit 5500-6000 rpm, snap your foot off the gas and let the car coast down to 2500 rpm while in gear, to pull high vacuum in the cylinders. Repeat this step about five times and you should have a nicely mated set of rings and cylinders. NOTE: When I say “heavy throttle”, I am referring to a normally aspirated engine. For a turbo or supercharged car, modulate the throttle to achieve about zero on your boost gauge, rather than full throttle. This would be roughly equivalent to full throttle in a normally aspirated car.

Dave here is a link to some of the current thinking. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Alpine deck and 6 disc stacker in very good condition in Sydney. Shoot me a pm if you are interested.

The noise you are hearing wouldn't be a sticky lifter would it? If you haven't started it for 7mths you might hearing something that is unrelated to dropping the porcelain in there....if you are lucky.

^^^^^ x2

go with fatz on this one.

I am happy he is getting a shot again. Kobayashi signs for BMW Sauber for 2010 Kamui Kobayashi (JPN) Toyota. Formula One World Championship, Rd 16, Brazilian Grand Prix, Practice Day, Interlagos, Sao Paulo, Brazil, Friday, 16 October 2009 Kamui Kobayashi (JPN) Toyota TF109 Formula One World Championship, Rd 17, Abu Dhabi Grand Prix, Race, Yas Marina Circuit, Abu Dhabi, UAE, Sunday, 1 November 2009 Kamui Kobayashi (JPN) Toyota. Formula One World Championship, Rd 16, Brazilian Grand Prix, Practice Day, Interlagos, Sao Paulo, Brazil, Friday, 16 October 2009 Their place on the 2010 grid is yet to be officially confirmed, but that hasn’t stopped BMW Sauber signing one of the hottest talents to emerge from the 2009 season. Kamui Kobayashi, who sprang to prominence after replacing injured Toyota driver Timo Glock in the final two rounds, is set to race for the Swiss-based team next year. Edit: just beat me to it....lol

plazmaman make them.

yep

look up chukie's post on spraying the stockers with polyurethane before you spend more than $25 on new coils.

HKS GT-RS is a bolt on GT2871 with a proper T3 flange (not the T25). GCG hi-flow ultimately the cheaper option for a pretty similar turbo.

My R33 GTS-t landed with 57,000km in 2001 it now has 214,000km running 220rwkw for most of its life, now with 280rwkw (12mths) still runs fine, compression is fine it feels like it will do another 100,000km with no worries assuming no catastrophic failures of ancillary parts like fuel pump etc.

I would swap them for sure.

pm sent

as far as i know that only supplies your factory boost gauge. i presume that hasn't been working? mechanics often snap the nipple off the boost sensor when changing plugs with fat fingers and misplaced tools. they plugged it to stop there being a vaccum leak. the shuddering isn't by any chance different tyres/old worn tyres on the rear causing an atessa issue? it still sounds a bit like a faulty coil. does the issue happen at idle when warm? if so pull each coil and see which one doesn't affect the idle.

legend01 made >300rwkw take the time to search and you will find his build and dyno sheet as a hidden gem at SAU.