wolverine

it's hard to put in a quicker lap when you are parked with your banked time.

Hamilton out in Q1. Ego has to be bruised. Once again pat on the back for Nakajima, assuming his racing concentration improves he looks like the fastest Japanese driver in F1 for a while (or ever??).

Webber and Vettel racy in Q1 so far

anywhere between 0.3v and 0.5v should be fine

pulling the front driveshaft out is the correct way to go.

great work in short time dale.

believe it or not this can all be searched for pretty easily but here goes. there really are only two choices in the Garrett range that meet your needs. GT3071 and GT3076 both should come with the identical turbine (60mm) the difference is the compressor. in simple terms the 71mm compressor is a 450hp compressor (depending on trim this number can vary) in simple terms the 76mm compressor is a 500hp compressor (depending on trim this number can vary) so this should net you between 250rwkw and 300rwkw on whatever engine you slap it onto ie RB25 (the cheapest and most obvious choice or as you state you want a 25/30 hybrid. there are other options like a quality hi-flow which usually come with the 71mm compressor anyway in a nissan housing some are ball bearing ($1900ish) or bush bearing ($900ish) alternatively you can look at other brands that are more expensive rebadged garrett units like HKS branded turbos (that are all sexy gear with HKS's own turbine covers that work really well). alternatively other name brand japanese turbos like Trust apexi etc. OR if you are feeling like doing something less common in australia find a Holset like one of the current threads is doing.

^^^ yeah what he says. talk to trent about what you want and he is more than qualified to match an ECU to your needs. nistune was not an option when i installed the powerfc on my RS4S plus i have a powerfc and datalogit already for the R33 so this was the best option for me at the time it went in.

i searched and i only found 97 times.

has someone checked the O2 sensor thru consult port? they take a few mins to come up to temp. certainly if it is faulty swap it straight out but take the time to check. so many people replace them and find themselves at square one. another thing to do for cheap is give the afm wire a quick squirt with electrical contact cleaner.

just a quicky, if the O2 sensor is working leave it. if it has 80,000km and they are genuine then you are within 20,000km of needing to do the timing belt. if this hasn't been done i would suggest doing so for peace of mind. they should change the water pump and all the idler bearings. a.sullivan of Kudos one of the traders here can supply the required bits and pieces for very competitive prices.

RS4S opens up lots of choices for ECU's from PowerFC, ViPEC, LinkG4, E-MU, Nistune etc. standard turbo, exhaust, FMIC, a little more boost usually = around 200rwkw +/- 10kw (remove the front driveshaft for 2wheel dyno) AWK won't be that different but subtract a few kw's. pull the front driveshaft and back to back test it on the 4W dyno then we will all know the difference on a stagea.

pm's sent weeks ago to 1FSTKR and rocketboy. i can see you have logged into SAU but haven't checked your pm's yet, if you are still keen i can send them to NZ while the GB is open.

8 sheets will do it thoroughly. i agree a bulk pack will be the best value way to buy it.

you would be pretty unlucky on an RB25 to suffer the same fate as an RB26 if the turbine wheel lets go. the turbine wheel should all end up in the cat. wind it up to 12-13psi and be satisfied it will probably do its best work here. your tuner should be helping make this call anyway based on what results any extra boost gains for you.

sammy what BOV are you running? intake pipework mods? has the tuner tried shifting the VCT around? (most notably downwards) long shot but could the timing belt out a tooth? i have been down a similar path with neo RB25DET and a whole bundle of little things conspired.

is anyone else concerned about that advice? what they are saying about coilpacks is not correct unless a coil was completely fried. if the ecu works intermittently then it is almost certainly an issue with the contact on the pins. this is the avenue i would be chasing down.

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no, but the currency did.

yep, they fit. pm sent with payment details.

umm, sounds a bit odd. perhaps the ECU needs to be removed and re-plugged back in assuming that a pin might be making a faulty contact. beyond that there is another issue. for a workshop unplugging and replugging an ECU should be a 5min job. for a newbie it should be a 6min job. what mods have been done to the car? ie boost control etc?

checked with UAS and still some master cylinder braces available. 1. themeaton (payment cleared, posted, received) 2. aberax (payment cleared, posted, received) 3. moobaque (payment cleared, assumed received) 4. keymaker (payment cleared, received) 5. houghy (payment cleared, posted, received) 6. 08r3308 (payment cleared, received) 7. StageaTypeS (payment cleared, assumed received) 8. nismor32gtst (payment cleared, assumed received) 9. lastarfighta (payment cleared, received) 10. 11.

catching = one thing passing = another

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It may not have been the greatest race given that Button cleared out and both RBR's were unassailable for 2nd & 3rd but there was a some fun and games with Barrichello/Kovalainen, Barrichello/Sutil (....what the hell....) Barrichello and anyone he came across or crashed into. Webber being consistently faster than Vettel in the middle stint seems to indicate better tyre management?!? So maybe Vettel lost time here due to impatience and pushing too hard too early? He has raw speed and stinks of future world champ since he is still learning how to manage and set up a car. Hamilton getting passed by Piquet. Nakajima who was very quick although he made a minor mistakes but was robbed by a left front wheel issue in the pits that cost him plenty. Rosberg was solid, Trulli was up there so a slight improvement on any car will be rewarded by moving ahead on the grid.