wolverine

you should have a pink sticker afm. (ie it should be like an S2 R33). it is a quick check under the bonnet.

the injectors on the R33 and R34 are both 370cc. the R33 injectors are sidefeed, the R34 (neo) are topfeed and are therefore not interchangeable. ps. a standard turbo usually puts out around 200rwkw (+/- approx 10kw) with most of the usual basic mods and engine management.

it is at the top end of results (that i have seen posted over the years) so i guess it is an OP6 housing too.

the refinery in sydney has undergone further maintenance so to the best of my knowledge fuel is being sourced from asia (singapore??) hence the higher price. caltex follow suit because they can.

a HPIAB GT3071 will probably be choked by the factory turbine housing. so realistically this will top out around 250rwkw give or take a few. at all four, the numbers don't change that much as the rear wheels are being driven mostly but conservatively you will get 230-240awkw is my guess. with that turbo you will not exceed the engine's reliability threshold unless you tune it poorly.

lol, i feel like George Dubya Bush at the moment.

the event will be poorer if your car isn't there.

a quick search here will find you the circuit diagrams for modifying the RS4S

it's bad for you to hold your emotions in dezz, tell us what you really think of bernie....lol :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014:

congratulations Duncan and team.

all in 4000ish by the looks of it.

you had me confused with the inside/outside bit. i have dynaxorb behind each speaker on the stagea and some equivalent on the R33. i had visions of you using some type of foam product that i hadn't seen.

as stated earlier a 1.06 GT30 housing should spool somewhere around a 0.82 GT35 turbine. if forums can be trusted

hi chris have you got any pics with the foam installed?

pm sent

keep your eye out in the GB section over the next month or so.

natrad have them.

1. +castor is your friend. so a nice set of adjustable radius rods preferably with polyurethane bushes (to keep NVH down). move the guard in front of the wheel as far forward as you can (if you are going for broke) and then wind on as much +ve castor as you can get. 2. you already have relatively beefed up swaybars vs RS4 stagea so you will a lesser improvement compared to most others with an upgrade here.

unless you are secretely living WA?? (puts on flame suit just in case someone takes this too seriously)

cheers. i hope you have a safe trip back home.

$300 is cheap.

i think you are comparing three glasses of mainstream beer and wondering which one is better. they are all good choices (assuming 2nd hand hi-flow is in good nick). they all taste about the same. they all get the job done. the biggest issue is that the hi-flow may make a little less power up top (or it may not) but should be pretty line ball down low and mid BUT it should bolt straight on. factory oil, water lines, intake and dump pipe all bolt back on exactly. the GT3071 and HKS units will have various levels of fiddling around to get it fitted and running potentially adding to the expense. so if you are happy with 240-250rwkw and save >$1000 then it is hard to argue for spending more money when you will probably spend less than 5% of your time on WOT. there are heaps of threads on these turbos so it is going to come down to a personal choice.

no

the HKS 2835ProS is a 56mm compressor with custom HKS turbine cover and 71mm 56 trim compressor, a GT3071 is (usually nowadays) a 60mm turbine in a garrett turbine housing and a 71mm 56 trim compressor. both 450hp compressors (more or less) sounds pretty similar eh. the HKS turbine covers are a nice bit of kit but they cost a lot more money. the hi-flows usually use a very similar 450hp compressor but the turbine is the probably the biggest limiting factor due to the factory turbine housing. for 300rwkw then GT3076 is the most likely reliable way of getting there for a reasonable price.

what boost control are you using dezz?