wolverine

being a tax payer how about using the money to lobby the govt to spend our money on infrastructure so the nation has an asset rather than a larger current account deficit OR more tuning?

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i say volvo conversion on the rear!!

these yellow things are magnets.

selling the standard turbos will net you something towards some new -7's

there is a rubber grommet in the firewall at the drivers footwell. a coathanger and tape is your friend from there.

do you buy the Hugh Flow from Hugh Jorgan Machining and Engineering?

what was the issue with the ViPec and Unichip? if they couldn't get these working then there is little chance they will get anything else working unless you can give more information on why they couldn't get them to work.

often around Norwest too. similar to something i saw on New Line road on one of those off camber roundabouts in the wet. 1x 3 Series BMW, 4 broken rims as he hit the outside gutter and bounced across and hit the other side on the median strip and broke both drivers side rims too.

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is that on a R33 RB25DET or RB25DET Neo? with an exhaust cam gear on my R33 (at or around 4 deg retarded) there is more mid and top (on my car) and certainly worthwhile trying cam gear changes when you have some dyno time. for this thread we are talking RB25DET Neo. cam gear changes were a step backward on the S2 Stagea. the same as many other people have found here. there is some adjustment on the backside of the factory cam gear already btw but you need to take the gear off each time to change it. Bass Junky has a good thread devoted to it, mind you that was a while ago so it may not have been read by more recent SAU'ers.

out of the two the HKS2835ProS is the better turbo for your aims but it sure is expensive compared to some locally sourced options that will reach your target. ps. the exhaust cam gear will probably net you 0kw (on an RB25DET Neo). sell and spend your money on something else.

i reckon there is nothing wrong with going either way copper, iridium or platinum. each has it's own advantage and disadvantage. if you are paying someone to replace coppers every 10,000km then they will prove to be quite expensive. as a DIY (allowing you value your time at $0) then coppers are possibly the best bet. i personally doubt iridiums will actually last 150,000km AND perform at their best if you have increased the performance of your car. if you are going to check them every few years you might as well replace them at that point. i remember reading (i have no source handy, sorry) the performance is fine for at least 40,000km. so generally i run iridiums for a couple of years and swap them out. it works out fine on the cost front and they perform identically on the street to coppers. i have used some coppers on the stagea back to back with a set of iridiums and there is nothing to separate them (using the ol' seat of the bum dyno). my R33 was back to backed at UAS and the iridiums showed an extra 1-2kw back to back (should be on their website somewhere) but this is probably just variation in time/temp/old worn copper plugs.

if the car is running fine, leave them at 1.1mm

usually that is the ejector seat button.... lucky it wasn't connected.

i don't think there is any factory adjustment for front camber but whiteline part KCA348 (eccentric bushes) will give you some correction. the front would need to be very very low to be an issue.

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automotive service solutions/petroject have the plugs. approx $20.

they drop about 60kw thru the drivetrain in manual form.

040 not mounted low enough in the tank?

the RS4S has come from the R33 GTR parts bin hence the fork bottom end.

pretty sure idle should be around 0.25v to 0.50v i don't think this will change your issue but worth noting.

do you have the rear camber setting? there doesn't appear to be any aftermarket rear eccentric bushes. if you have lowered the rear (increasing negative camber) you will probably find that explains the desire to light up the rear. it is hard to help unless we know what settings you have on your car. (unless i missed them). how low is the rear? centre of wheel to arch?