wolverine

dave how about these? they fit and are cheap enough. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ad...ns-t184475.html

the Tomei recommended valve clearance with type B poncams (260 deg) is 0.45mm cold. the lifters are a touch noisy at this clearance on my car so i reckon something a little tighter might be better?!?!?

valve clearances need to be checked and may require shims (with neo head).

last i checked the GT3076 and GT3037 have the same 60mm turbine and 76mm compressor. it is just the use of the old nomenclature.

i am interested.

no way, it never gets old. for the money with the yen/AUD the GCG hi-flow is the pick of the two. same power output potential with money in the pocket = no-brainer.

belt tension, if it is the same noise i had a few years ago. it was an ugly ass grinding (not squealing) noise.

DIY section has the answers

take a screen dump of all the pages of FC Edit/Datalogit before unlocking it and if it wipes the data you can....painfully type it back in.

i have a GT-RS and a GT3040 and there is no doubt the GT-RS is the more responsive turbo. increases in throttle application generally you get more instant joy out of the GT-RS. however, the GT3040 (aka GT3082) isn't too shabby to drive around, it needs a few more revs onboard but makes much more power once it is going. ultimately the compressor will be choked by the turbine on this version but it is a pretty good thing. so i am guessing it will feel not too dissimilar to a GT3582 at 75-80% of its max. personally, i think something that can make 270-300rwkw for a rear wheel drive car is the best bet. this is about the limit of traction on road tyres and inside a power level for keep the stock engine chugging along for a while with good tuning. so that means GT3076 sized turbo if funds permit with the addition of a merge collector manifold you can bring the boost threshold down.

out of the two the GT-RS is the one that comes with a T3 flange (assuming you order the RB25 version). problem solved.

so many people like to do both....

that's a pain. did you turn boost control off on the powerfc. default setting is on and if there is no apexi boost control that will throw up the check light as well. this is well known so i am presuming the mech switched this to off already. if you have a commander go to sensor check and have a look there. check the boost control is set to off here too. the powerfc faq that paulr33 has set up should help you do some trouble shooting from your end too.

same engine but R34 GT-t has traction control feeding that pin, the rest is the same. the first day we plugged it in the car started and ran on base tune just fine.

$125/hr last i checked is not uncommon. so $500 sounds pretty typical.

i have posted a link in sturbs recent post on the powerfc. they are almost identical barring one pin (to the best of my knowledge) so it will plug straight into a S2 particularly an RS4S and run it. a resistor is required for pin 51 to modify the voltage to the correct level.

if the key word is budget: then just add a cheap boost tee. (i can post you one for $10 plus postage if you want) if you can stretch a little further then turbo back exhaust is worthwhile and isn't much dearer while you are under the car so why not finish it per tangles post. if you can stretch further then R34 powerfc is the next thing or Nistune or other tunable ecu option.

what didn't work? what did you try? did you read through that link or at least hand the info over to the workshop?

on for sale in stagea section bundled with SAFC2 might be able to re-sell SAFC2?!?!?

any news?

any exhaust place should be able to keep you on the road.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Po...&hl=powerfc here is the link.

the engine check light is lit due to pin51 NOT getting about 3.7v Pin51 is the traction control which is present on R34 GT-t's but not on S2 RS4S. the engine can be tuned and run perfectly without setting up the correct voltage but you won't see the light flash if you have excessive knock or other engine checklight situations. it is a small wiring job to get this light off. the answer of the correct voltage was supplied by EGA4IT. it can be tuned quite happily if you want the power and it should run the car normally otherwise.

that sounds about right dave. standard RB25DET should make around 120-130rwkw (from factory 189kw at flywheel with approx 60kw drivetrain loss with rear wheel drive) RB25DET neo should be about 10-15kw more from factory. so allowing some variation between dyno's, some variation for age, wear and tear, temperature, fuels etc you should come out around that sort of number at the rears.

$500-600 ish for the 0.82 housing.